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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: London Ont Canada
Posts: 3,120
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3.6 cuts out NOT DME relay
I have a 3.6 in an early car. It,s been running fine for several years but due to a knee injury was not driven for last 2 years. I now have an occasional engine cut out while driving. It lasts a fraction of a second ,tach bounces and will stall if idleing when it happens. I have replaced the DME relay because you can feel it click when this happens. No change.
Some reading here suggested the DME itself might be rebooting due to interferance so I changed the caps and rotors. Runs a little smoother but no change to the cutting out. I opened the DME and looked for bad solder joints and reflowed a couple suspect but no change,I was installing a Steve Wong chip anyway so I had the box open. As the flywheel speed sensor on the 3.6 detects motion and activates the pump I then changed the flywheel sensor with no change. I have since adjusted the space between the sensor and flywheel (.8 mm) with a washer glued to the old sensor to set the distance. I had thought it fixed the problem but it,s back Maybe not as bad but still happening. The adjustment seems to be as close as I can get it to the flywheel without modifying the holder Any fresh ideas?
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1980 911 SC 3.6 coupe sold 1995 993 coupe 1966 Mustang Shelby clone 1964 Corvair Spyder Turbo gone 2012 Boss 302 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA
Posts: 4,499
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I had the same problem in my modified '83 SC--PMO carbs, no DME. While driving, the engine would occasionally die for anywhere from half a second to four or five seconds. Funny thing was, all the instruments also went to zero briefly.
The advice I got here was to change out the electrical component of the ignition switch--has nothing to do with the key/tumbler/lock, just the cassette that plugs onto the back (i.e. toward front of car) of the ignition-switch/steering-wheel lock unit. I did so--it's a real bear to get at--and haven't had the same problem since. Granted, I've only gone a few hundred miles since then, but the car has run just fine. Apparently those switches control most of the electrical circuits in the car, and they are notorious for going bad and creating a vast variety of electrical ailments, from intermittent ignition failure to suddenly-on headlights to you name it. As I remember, there's a couple of pages in Wayne's 101 book on how to effect the change.
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Jupiter, FL
Posts: 306
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I had the same split second cut-out on my 91 C2 only in right corners at the track. Almost like the fuel pump lost power for a 1/4 second. I found a bad spark plug wire that was loose and grounding on the header. I replaced it overnight and returned for the 2nd day of the DE. No return problem in 3 years since.
There was another post recently with a bunch of other things to check for. It might have been on the 964 board. Lyn
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Track: 91 C2 SuperCup wannabe, 08 Cayman S Street: 85 RUF BTR Slant-nose, 70 911 T Coupe Pastel Blue Projects: 82 911 SC 3.6, 72 911 T Coupe, 74 914 Signal Orange |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Are these the units that are connected w/ the dome lights? Maybe you have a bad connection or failing bulb there.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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