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Its a plug in. Should there by power to 49 and 49a with the key and lights off?
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no
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button off (normal): 49 to 15 zero resistance (short) 58 to 31 small resistance 30, L, R, 49a are not connected to any other pins (open) button pressed on (flash): 58 to all other pins infinite resistance (open) 31 to 49a small resistance 31 to R small resistance 31 to L small resistance L to R to 49a zero resistance (short) 49 to 30 short 15 to all other pins open |
why would 49(showing about 9volts) and 49a(showing 12 volts) be hot until key is on acc? (refering to the flasher receptacle).
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1. have the flasher button/switch on and that is correct/normal because 2. have the flasher button/switch off and the switch could be internally shorted to pin 30 3. The flasher button/switch could be good (but off) and the wire to pin 15 could be connected at the wrong place on the fuse block (to unswitched power). You could determine this by unplugging your hazard switch to see is 15 is still hot without the switch in the circuit (if so, then check wire colors at the pin 15 and at the fuse 8) Should be green/red. Now that I know that you can easily remove (unplug) your switch (it is a lot easier to troubleshoot)...you should really measure voltages with it unplugged. Also measure voltage at 49 and 49a of the flasher switch with both the flasher and flasher switch unplugged because they are connected through the flasher. If you check the socket where you plug in the switch (with it removed) and with headlights off, the only place you should have voltage is at pin 30. 4. 31 should also not be hot with it unplugged. It should be ground. |
ok, checking the flasher button socket with the key off and the flasher relay unpluged I get voltage at pin 30 and voltage at pin 49a. with the key on and the flasher relay unpluged I get voltage at pins 30 and 15. the red and green wire from pin 15 goes to fuse 8. I also checked the flasher relay socket with the relay unplugged and there is voltage at pin 49a. I just received my new flasher button and the results are still the same.
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Unplug the Black/White/Green wire that is coming from the turn signal switch and then recheck 49A. There should be no voltage present with the flasher relay removed. I have to wonder if the turn signal switch is bad and feeding voltage thru that wire back to 49A on the relay socket.
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I unplugged the blk/wht/green coming from the turn signal switch and I still have voltage to both the relay socket and the flasher switch socket. There is another small blk/wht/green wire that is plugged into a gray wire coming from the ignition switch, when I unplugged that, I have no voltage to either the relay socket or the flasher switch socket.
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I don't undertstand how 49a in the relay socket and the flasher switch socket can be hot until i turn the ignition switch to acc or on. I unplugged the blk/wht/grn wire from the turn signal switch, 49a still hot, so I guess it's not backfeeding thru that wire.
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The ends on the blk/wht/green and the gray don't match up, different terminal ends. So your thinking gray to gray?
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The gray wire is likely the one that goes from the ignition switch to turn signal assemb/lever. I would look to make sure that the two blk/wht/grn wires go to the right place first. Since the drawing is unclear as to where the gray wire goes (ignition on one side, and ??? on the turn signal on the other)..I would look for an obvious place that it would go....like an empty pin or wire. The drawing only indicates gray between those two points. Maybe you could get someone with a carrera to look at their wiring to see where it goes. On the drawing, it goes from the ignition switch to the turn signal lever assembly. You can likely eliminate the other conections/wires on the turn signal until you get the correct one. If you want to be sure, according to the drawing, it connects to 58R and 58L respectively when the lever is pushed right or left. |
I plan on spending some time on it in the am. May stop by the local porsche shop too. I will trace the wires thanks for your help I'll keep you posted thanks again
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No problem. I think this is it if I understand your posts correctly. Clearly, the blk/wht/green wires should neither be connected to the grey wire.
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Thanks again
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WOO HOO, I have turn signals and hazard flashes!!!!!!!!!!! The gray from the ignition goes to the gray to the turn signal switch, and the blk/wht/grn from the turn signal switch goes to the blk/wht/grn to the hazard flasher. The thing that was throwing me off was that the spade ends on the wires don't match up one has a hard plastic end and the other end is a soft rubber. I guess that i'm not the "master of the obvious" when it comes to matching wire colors. Thanks to all that helped, especially Fintstone, you were very helpful.
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Great! Thanks for being patient. Wiring problems are the hardest because the symptoms generally do not make sense...and at first we just look for the symptoms of a bad component...or an open or short. That is why it is so important to keep the original wire colors and keep track of repairs so we know when a problem starts. It really helped to find out you could just unplug the hazzard switch. That isolates all the circuits...otherwise the possibilities are almost endless. When tracking wires, that is really helpful. The schematic that was posted by Mysterytrain was great. Make sure you print a copy for the future. Congratulations!
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Glad the schematics helped.
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Wow, I've been following this one for awhile. Congrats, sometimes a little stick-to-it-iveness goes a long way.
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Since this thread is made by some real Hazard Switch specialist, I hope you can help me as well (MY 1972). Every thing works nicely except the hazard lights. When turned on the indicators are on but no flashing. When I connect my test light to the flasher relay, all work fine (including a flashing test light). The light in the switch still doesn't work despite changing the little bulb. Checked all the wiring. Seems to be okay. Any suggestions what to check more?
Thanks, Ed |
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