Another PMO electromotive project

[dfink]

Didn't want to trample all over Trog's excellent PMO project thread with my stupid questions so thought I would start a new one.
Things are progressing however slowly. As you will see in the pics there is a ton wireing to be completed. To make matters worse this is a twin plug system based on the TEC 3r controller so there is a bit more wire.
My first question is about the cam sensor. I have european racing headers and they are nearly touching the connector for the cam sensor. I have wrapped the headers (Yes I know the pros and cons) and constructed a heat shield. For the shield I used three sheets of aluminum hopeing the air gap between them would provide additional insulation. If I clamp the aluminum to the header I can get about a 1/4 inch gap between the aluminum and the connector. This may transfer more heat to the aluminum sheet. If I don't clamp the aluminum touches the connector but is should not conduct as much heat from the header. As one picture from the side shows the shield has a sort of scoop on the bottom that might force additional air up the backside of the engine but I am still concerned. Does it look like the insulation will protect the sensor or is it still toast.
Also a few pictures in general. The front view shows the left side blockoff plate. This was handmade according to a recent thread. May get replaced later but I think will work for now. I tried to stay similar to the factory harness for the injectors. Not sure how Trog did the power to his but I just looped mine from one to the next down the side. The ground activates the injectors and those go all the way back to the TEC3r.
The standoffs for the middle mounting plate are actually turnbuckles from Manards. They were 3/16 turnbuckles which is just the right size to retap 6mm. Polished them a bit and cheap standoffs. $1.06 each. You have to raise any platform there else it would interfere with the crankcase ventilation hose. Anyhow some opinions on the fate of the connector and better ideas would be appreciated. Also obviously the plastic wire ties will be replaced with metal ones before running the engine. What about some tin foil wrapped around the sensor?

[Trog]

Look'in good. In response to your queries:

1. I would rotate the cam sensor clockwise and place the connector on the right hand side. You'll have to re-drill and tap the cam to match the new sensor location.

2. I looped the injector power, same as you.

You may wish to run some heat shrink over your wire harnesses. It will perform better than gaffer tape.

Rgs,

Trog

[dfink]

Originally Posted by Trog

Look'in good. In response to your queries:

1. I would rotate the cam sensor clockwise and place the connector on the right hand side. You'll have to re-drill and tap the cam to match the new sensor location.

2. I looped the injector power, same as you.

You may wish to run some heat shrink over your wire harnesses. It will perform better than gaffer tape.

Rgs,

Trog

Tried to rotate the sensor but it actually got worse. I finally cut out the side of the connector on the sensor. Soldered wires direct to the sensor then filled the sensor connector with epoxy. This was the suggestion of Richard Clewett. It also has a protective sock over it now that is designed to protect spark plug wires from header heat. I wish mine as far along as yours. I need to order some more fuel line fittings. It appears I can't count. So maybe in a week or so will be ready to fire up. The electronics are responding now so that is good. Also I had kind of the same feedback problem at the tach. I saw in the service manual that there is a diode that goes to the battery indicator. The factory diode is one of the red/black connectors. When I found and reinstalled this the feedback problems in the tach went away. Will see what happens when running.