Finally got my SC running again, but a question

[jtfreels]

I finally have my car running again, but I have at least one remaining problem. I have the vacuum advance line on the distributor disconnected and plugged. Runs great this way, if I hook up the vacuum advance to the distributor, it bucks and misses terribly from 2000 rpm and up. (I have a "before" photo of the distributor so I'm sure I have the right hose on the right place, I am NOT connecting the "retard" line yet").

What is going on with this?

The longer story is......

I've been unable to get my 82SC to start and then run since July, in short the car just died on me (What now ? post stranded by the road) and basically wouldn't start again.
Searching Pelican gave me a lot to consider, I replaced the green (signal) wire on the distributor and the car would start.
But that was not the end, after starting the car would run for about 5 minutes and then stop, not starting again, until it had cooled off, about 4 hours later(my SC starts fine, but I can't keep it running, doesn't seem like the usual problem).
Thinking it was the coil or CDI box, I bought an MSD 6AL and Blaster coil, installing these and no change.
Finally I determined that when the car would not start the resistance on the green wire connectors was open, when cold it was the normal 650Ohm range. So I bought a new magnetic pickup coil, cleaned the distributor according to Gunther's post (Distributor service (Clean and lube) real easy without removing the pinion gear!).

Eureka! The car will start and run! I got this working tonight, and just got back from an hour drive.


Jay

[jtfreels]

Hate to do this but bumping my own thread.

In short, after servicing the distributor, having the advance hose hooked up make the car stumble/missing badly from 2000rpm up.

WITHOUT the advance hose the car runs great.

Whats up with that?

Jay

[psalt]

Hello Jay,

I would first check that the vacuum canister holds a vacuum and is not leaking. Then use a timing light to check what it is doing to your timing at 2k rpm. The orange line is the vacuum advance, it connects to the front of the canister and should be connected to ported vacuum (no vacuum at idle). The grey braided line is the retard,it connects to the rear of the canister and should be connected to manifold vacuum (full vacuum at idle). Vacuum advance should have little or no effect at WOT, so something else might be up.