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No sleep 'til... BROOKLYN
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Noob tune up, help
Well, I finally had the time to do my first tune up. I can say that it's pretty straight forward, and the 101 book was great help. Here's a pic of the lab.
![]() I have a couple of questions, and the car is a '89 Carrera, no mods. After changing spark plugs and installing Bosch super plus that came with the tune up kit from our host I ran the car for about fifteen minutes. I stopped momentarily and when I tried to start the car it didn't. The alt light came on when key was on the start position, but the starter did not turned. I pulled the key back and tried again, same thing. After the 3rd or 4th try the lights on the dash didn't even came on. I opened the engine lid and found out that cable #5 was not properly plugged, so I did. Then I opened the trunk and giggle that batt connectors, I started the car again and it started. I came home and I checked again the cables They were all in the right positions. Later last night I drove the car to have dinner, it started fine. After dinner it started again and I drove back with no probs. I stopped at a gas station to buy a gatorade and when I tried to start the car it did the same thing as earlier today. Wouldn't start and after trying several times without the starter turning, again at once there was no electricity on the car, no dash lights. I waited for a few minutes and when I tried again it started. My question is, spark plugs were not gapped, could this be causing this? The ignition rotor can only be placed one way, so I don't think I screwed that one. ![]() I have second questions about removing the OEM cables, they have some kinds of brackets that hold the three cables together. How do I can get these to pass under the A/C comp base without removing the comp? Do I have to rip those brackets, how do you guy's do this? I will disconnect everything tomorrow and do it all over again, if anybody wants to give me any pointers I would greatly appreciate it. ![]()
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-Orlando- '89 3.2L G-50 '77 S w '79, 3.0L '90 T-3 Syncro 32C #16 |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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From what you describe, it doesn't sound like anything to do with the plugs or distributor--you are describing a partial/complete loss of power. Others who are familiar with the later cars, like yours, can offer some specifics on the electronic components but it's sounding like low voltage and total loss of voltage of the system. How old is your battery? How clean are the connections? Somewhere between the battery and the fuses you have a problem, most likely.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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+1
take the battery cables off, clean and make sure they are tight. every time it would not start was due to the starter not turning over the engine, correct? do you have an aftermarket car alarm? the later years were known for bad ignition switches.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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No sleep 'til... BROOKLYN
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Ossi & T77, tanks for your feedback.
You guy's are right, I don't know why would I think spark plugs would have anything to do with it since the problem shows before the engine is running. ![]() Quote:
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![]() Anyway, I checked the battery with a meter when the car was not running and it reads 12.6V, that means battery is fine, batt is an "Interstate Mega-Tron plus". One of the batt connectors was loose, I cleaned and tighten them, it hasn't happened since. I ran the car 3 times today for short rides and it seems fine now. I would like to thank you guy's for your time and advice. ![]()
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-Orlando- '89 3.2L G-50 '77 S w '79, 3.0L '90 T-3 Syncro 32C #16 |
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Band.
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Remember a hot engine is more difficult for the starter to turn, so that's when electrical issues in the starter-battery system show up.
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1983 SC Coupe 1963 BMW R60/2 1972 Triumph Tiger 1995 Triumph Daytona SuperIII |
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