Smoking is GONE! You guys are Geniuses!

[Larswik]

Tonight just after sundown I got the guts up to to drive some back roads with my tags that expired in May 05' ( I did insure it yesterday though and it was only an extra $14 since I already had 2 cars). After filling the tires to the correct pressure since it was sitting for 3 years (each tire had about 19-22 PSI). I took off down the road with a smoke trail that would have made it easy for cops to find me.

When I finally got away from homes and people I opened it up and smoke spewed out like a million man cigar march but I kept it up. Sure enough after 20 minutes and push red line before shifting the smoke began to subside.

After 30 minutes I returned home and parked it in the driveway idling. It was dark but with what light I had from the garage I could see NO MORE SMOKE!!!

You guys know what you are talking about! I wonder if it will pass smog now or maybe I should drive it some more to be sure?

-Lars

[Paulporsche]

No way to tell just yet, as there are many factors to consider in passing a smog test, not just tailpipe smoke.

Why not try restarting tomorrow and see if the smoke is gone?

[Larswik]

Yes.. I plan to do that. I have no idea if it has been sitting for so many years if that makes a difference for smoging or not. It has always passed smog in the past. But after reading a passage in one of Wayne's books he said it is getting harder and harder every year to pass because the regulations are getting tighter and tighter.

-Lars

[Oh Haha]

Good news.

Hopefully, the smoke will stay gone.

[porschenut]

What was the problem before and what advice did you get from the geniuses?

[Oh Haha]

Still Smoking after oil change. Video

[YTNUKLR]

The old Italian tune-up, eh?

[Gogar]

Congrats, Lars! I've been folowing your thread. Keep on your toes, though. I don't think you should go try to pass smog, yet. If "overfill" was indeed your problem you could stand to clean up your airbox/breather tube area, and get a new air filter, etc. before you spend any money at smog testing.

In addition, you need to repeat the process a few times, and get the engine warm, check your oil, all the usual stuff; just to be absolutely positive it was indeed your problem, and not something more difficult and more expensive.

[Larswik]

Yes, thanks. tomorrow I will add the 11th Qrt of oil. I added 9 from what the book said (101 Projects) and then it said to drive the car. I let it idle instead with some revs (expired tags). After that I added the 10th Qrt and that brought the oil level to about 1/4 over the low marker on the gauge. By the way... How many Qrt's of oil is it from the low marker to the high marker? Maybe I should only added 1/2 a Qrt? I don't want to over fill it which caused the problem, someone mentioned 1/2 is good.

The Italian tune up worked YTNUKLR! The car wants to be driven.

Say GOGAR... when you say "Clean up the air box / new air filter" do you mean remove the box from the engine compartment and clean it? If so are there any links that describe the process? It's not in Wayne's books that I could see, might be wrong

-Lars

[Aurel]

Lars, I am glad the smoke cleared up. I am not sure I would add the 11th quart of oil, because I wouldn`t want to risk overfilling again. My rule of thumb is that I like to see the oil dash guauge needle at nine o clock exactly when warm. Then, you can monitor your oil consumption, and when the guauge is back down to 6 o clock, you know it is time to add another quart.

For cleaning the airbox, all you need to do is remove the straps, remove the air intake, remove the air filter. That gives you access to the inside of the airbox, where you can clean the oil on he walls if you see any. No need to remove the airbox.

Aurel

[Joe Bob]

Drive at night, kill mosquitos....check oil on a level ground, engine running. Pull the stick and don't have it go over the half mark.

Ignore that stoopid gauge in the dash, worthless....check oil every other gas fill up.

NOW...have you changed the brake fluid????

[Mitch Leland]

I've found the dash oil level gauge to be a very good indicator of my sump tank oil level. Naturally you want to verify over some period of time that the gauge is working and is accurate. I agree it's no substitute for checking the dip stick, but I can go many more tank fulls than every other tank knowing my gauge and my engine oil burn before checking the dip stick. Hey, what ever works...

[Larswik]

Mikez - I have no interest in checking the break fluid at the moment since the car is fully insured : ) I have a laundry list of other things I need to address first that I noticed.

1- The RPM Gauge stops moving at 5K almost like it sticks or something. It's fine from 0 to 5K

2. No smoke out of the tail pipe but there was noticable smoke coming up from the engine compartment. Guessing I need to replace gaskets and such.

3. Steering wheel is loose and has 1/4 play.

4. This one is weird and hard to explain, I think it is clutch related and I remembered it the other day from years ago when mom was a live. Everything is fine and shifts well. But when we drive the car to LA from Solvang 120 miles let it sit while we shop and then drive home at night in LA traffic jam, it has this major problem where the car shakes violently when you release the clutch and give it gas. The more gas you give it the more the car shakes, shakes is an under statement because it is violent. The only way to go move the car forward is to release the clutch with no pressure on the gas pedal slowly so you don't stall the car. It only happens in first gear the other ones are no problem.

It is fine if I drive it to the local store and around town. She had it at the mechanics once but they can not duplicate the problem because it has to be driven or lots of stop and go like in heavy traffic after it's warmed up.

-Lars

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Larswik

Mikez - I have no interest in checking the break fluid at the moment since the car is fully insured : ) I have a laundry list of other things I need to address first that I noticed.

Lars, For a DIY Guy the cost is a liter of decent brake fuild and about an hour of your time. The life you save may be your own.

1- The RPM Gauge stops moving at 5K almost like it sticks or something. It's fine from 0 to 5K

Does the car "sputter" at 5000 rpm? It could be the rev limiter and if so, you may want to get it checked out.

2. No smoke out of the tail pipe but there was noticable smoke coming up from the engine compartment. Guessing I need to replace gaskets and such.

Hard to say. Clean your engine and look again.

3. Steering wheel is loose and has 1/4 play.

You may need to replace your steering bushing. Easy fix of this is the case. There is a tech article in the Pelican library and the article is also in the 101 Projects Book.

4. This one is weird and hard to explain, I think it is clutch related and I remembered it the other day from years ago when mom was a live. Everything is fine and shifts well. But when we drive the car to LA from Solvang 120 miles let it sit while we shop and then drive home at night in LA traffic jam, it has this major problem where the car shakes violently when you release the clutch and give it gas. The more gas you give it the more the car shakes, shakes is an under statement because it is violent. The only way to go move the car forward is to release the clutch with no pressure on the gas pedal slowly so you don't stall the car. It only happens in first gear the other ones are no problem.

It is fine if I drive it to the local store and around town. She had it at the mechanics once but they can not duplicate the problem because it has to be driven or lots of stop and go like in heavy traffic after it's warmed up.

-Lars

Sounds weird. Maybe someone else can help you out.

[Larswik]

Harry - I was just joking about the breaks. But driving it today they felt fine. If they feel good is there a reason to put new break fluid in them?

2 - What is the best way of cleaning it? some kind of de greaser that I spray on and flush off? or do it by hand?

3 - Steering was answered in another post. I am ordering the parts for air filter / Steering part.

4 - This one I am afraid I will never get an answer for. I have never come across something like that before.

O' I found a link that sounds similar to the problem that I had with vibration. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081129081332AAabUrc

-Lars

[slodave]

Originally Posted by Larswik

Harry - I was just joking about the breaks. But driving it today they felt fine. If they feel good is there a reason to put new break fluid in them?

-Lars

Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Water in brake lines is not a good thing. The rubber lines could be old and soft/cracking.

[Larswik]

I also just found this really old thread from 2000. It sounds like the problem I have with violent shaking when releasing the clutch in 1st gear from a stand still. The only difference is that it isn't happening until the car is really warmed up. Could this be the same problem as mine?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pelican-technical-articles-discussion/25477-911-clutch-cable-replacement-tech-article.html#post4105489

-Lars

[HarryD]

Lars,

Originally Posted by Larswik

Harry - I was just joking about the breaks. But driving it today they felt fine. If they feel good is there a reason to put new break fluid in them?

Any brake fluid over a year or so old should be changed. As already noted, brake fluid absorbs moisture. Moisture in brake fluid causes internal corrosion tothe metal brake parts which in turn lead to failure.

If your rubber brake lines are more than 10-15 years old, they are on the verge of failure as well. I replaced the last aged one in my car last weekend. It was still ok but since I needed to replace it's companion for a leak in the line, I figured it was prudent to replace it as well since it lacked a readable date code. I cut the removed line in half and noticed that while the outside looked ok, there was severe degradation to the inside (i.e. swelling and cracking).

Also, when you bleed the brakes, I would suggest you use a pressure bleeder or the "Gravity-Method". If you use the "two-person/stomp-on-the-brake-pedal-method", you are at risk of causing your master cylinder to fail since the "stomp" method can cause the piston in the master cylinder to travel further than it normally does and contact an area that is corroded and subsequently tear your master cylinder seals.

2 - What is the best way of cleaning it? some kind of de greaser that I spray on and flush off? or do it by hand?

Either would work as would a steam cleaner. I am kind of lazy so I typically use a spray on/wash off degreaser or go over to my local coin operated car wash that has an engine cleaning option for the wand.

3 - Steering was answered in another post. I am ordering the parts for air filter / Steering part.

Good. Hope it works for you. There is a post here by John Walker on the need to grease the 928 sleeve to prevent excessive wear. You should look it up.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Larswik

I also just found this really old thread from 2000. It sounds like the problem I have with violent shaking when releasing the clutch in 1st gear from a stand still. The only difference is that it isn't happening until the car is really warmed up. Could this be the same problem as mine?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?p=4105489

-Lars

I would post this issue as a separate thread. Maybe someione will be able to help you out.

For my car, I found out that a poorly adjusted/worn clutch causes all kinds of problems. You may need an adjustment or repalcement.

[Larswik]

Replacing the clutch means pulling the engine, right?

-Lars