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1983 911 sc over heating

My stock 1983 911sc is over heating. The oil level gauge reads off the scale high could that be the issue. Also the oil pressure gauge never goes above one bar no matter how high the rpms are what could cause these things. Rubber seal for trunk lid is not in does that effect cooling. Thanks in advance hoping to solve this quickly I am dying to drive the car I have being working on it for a year now and have only driven it around the neighborhood. Plan on posting a formal introduction with pics of my newly repainted and refurbished car soon.

Old 06-17-2009, 06:17 PM
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The oil level gauge is not the temp gauge, that tells you how much oil is in the tank. If it always reading at the top, either it is broken or the car is overfilled with oil.

Your oil pressure gauge should read about 10 psi per 1000 RPM. I

If it does not move from 1 then you need to check that it is functioning properly.

Here is recent thread is which oil temp and what is normal was discussed.
Brad Penn oil issue
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:25 PM
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My temp gauge is in the red thanks for the speedy reply
Old 06-17-2009, 06:31 PM
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Are your gauges working correctly? Based on your description it almost sounds as if maybe you have an electrical problem.

When cold is the temp ok and then go to red after driving? How long does it take for it to go red?

What was done to the car during the refurbishing? Engine removed? Any work done to the engine? Did you do the work?

Lots of questions, I know but if the engine is truly running that hot we need to get to the root ASAP before you incur any serious damage.
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:39 PM
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When cold the temp is ok gets hot after about 10 to 15mins of driving. Engine was removed three times all do to fly wheel and starter issuses (bad mechanic). A mechanic did the engine removal and work such as new heat exchanger cat bypass new muffler and a few other things. Then i did electrical work and other smaller things. No major engine work was done though. Car still has cold start issues though dont think that is related though unless ruff running has thined the oil. The other two times i drove the car temp was good and the oil preasure moved like it should with the rpms.
Old 06-17-2009, 07:03 PM
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Sorry, I went to bed right after my last post.



Where are you located? I'm thinking a local Pelican could stop by and take a look.

I think starting at the basics is needed. I can help as much as possible by keyboard. Don't be offended by the simple questions.



Just going to ask: Did you connect the correct gauge wires to correct senders on the engine?

Is there anything that you can see/feel blocking the airflow over the engine from the fan?


Check your oil level and adjust. Idling, up to temp, and on level ground. If it's overfilled remove enough to bring it down to correct.


I would suggest you read some of these threads to get some other ideas as well:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?searchid=3906250
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:08 AM
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that rubber and shroud is useful/ manditory in directing air to the right areas for cooling. put it back on...ditto on some help thats knoledgeable.

Last edited by whiteSC59; 06-18-2009 at 04:56 AM..
Old 06-18-2009, 04:45 AM
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Mate, I think Wayne is right here. You have many issues going on at once. Start with the basics, like are the diagnostics you are using (hte gauges) correct.

Given your comments re:engine drops and "bad mechanics" there are lots of opportunities to have hooked up the gauges incorrectly.

It is unlikely you are overheating just idling or going around the block, unless of course your oil levels are very low which could be true if you are trusting only your gauges.

I think you need to get some experienced help over to take a look and verify some basics.

Have you checked the oil level correctly?
Have you changed the oil?
Have you manually verified the overheating with a thermometer/known accurate sensor?
Why are your shrouds off? THey need to be on.
As a matter of prime importance you need to verify your oil pressure.
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:53 AM
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I see your direction, whitesc59.


Are all of the engine compartment heating pipes and blower connected? If not, the air is not being directed to the cylinders properly.
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:53 AM
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Good Morning,

**pulled the oil temp wire from sensor to make sure it was connected correctly. **Gauge reads accurate cold and climbs as the car warms but pushes the red line
**no obvious issues with air flow or blockage
**front cooler lines get very warm but not hot(as oil filter) under fender so it appears oil is flowing to the front of the car.
**no internal engine work was done
**the car came to temp and drove perfectly 15 miles on the way to the body shop. It came home on a trailer in pieces so it did not drive back.
**Oil pressure does not come above the 1 mark(10 psi??) and previously did
**Oil level is a good 1/2" above full line but the oil was changed before the drive to the body shop(no problem that day)

Could the oil pump be weak? Overfilled oil cause overheating and low pressure?

I will read the thread of post you sent. Seems odd we have resolved nearly everything and now this!
Old 06-18-2009, 04:55 AM
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Wow, nice job in providing info to help with the problem.

I'm not sure where to go from here, however. The basics seem to be covered.
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:02 AM
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Sounds like you have too much oil.
Check it warm (or in your case hot) on a level surface running if it is above the full mark, you definitely have too much oil.
Most say half way between the lines on the dipstick is the level you want.
Good advice from the posters above.
Good luck!
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:04 AM
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Go to Target or something and buy a digital kitchen thermometer. $10

Feed it partway into the oil tank; be careful sometimes it can get stuck. Nothing will happen to the engine if you drop it, but don't drop it. Just put it far enough in to get some oil on it.

check to verify the temp gauge is working. On an SC, the first small white line - 197degrees F. The second white line = 248degreesF. The red line - 302F.

It's a quick and relatively cheap way to make sure your temp gauge is wired properly.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:01 AM
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This sounds very dangerous for your engine DO NOT RUN THIS ENGINE. It also sounds like there is an obstruction preventing oil from getting from the oil tank to the oil pump (high pressure side). Could the main oil line be kinked or plugged with a foreign body? Did someone leave a rag or paper towel in the engine or oil tank connection and reattach the oil line without removing it?. How about a mouse or other animal if the engine has been out for a while? I would immediately drain the oil tank and engine and remove the main oil line and inspect all the passages. It is unlikely to be scavenge side as the oil level in the tank appears high consistent with oil getting in but not out of the tank.
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Last edited by sjf911; 06-18-2009 at 07:37 AM..
Old 06-18-2009, 07:10 AM
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We did not get to the heater tubes yet, we figured summer no worries but we will do that.

I will check the oil temp with an external gauge.

I will drain the excess oil out and let it idle and see if the temp still goes up past half way.

If so, we will drain the tank and engine and try to see if something is plugging.

If anyone know....

what is the flow pattern? curious where it goes from the tank onward.
curious because I do have very warm lines at the front fender.

Thanks all for the help
Old 06-18-2009, 07:47 AM
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Low oil pressure, high oil temperature, and a high oil level in the oil tank mean an obstruction/restriction in the path from the oil tank to the high pressure side of the oil pump (or failure of the high pressure side of the oil pump) until proven otherwise.

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Last edited by sjf911; 06-18-2009 at 08:16 AM..
Old 06-18-2009, 08:10 AM
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Here is a better picture. The path outlined in red.

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Old 06-18-2009, 08:14 AM
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Here is the PET diagram showing the S-hose and its attachments to the oil tank and the lower part of the oil cooler. This is the path from the oil tank back to the high pressure side of the oil pump.

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Old 06-18-2009, 08:28 AM
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Can you post some pics? Show the engine compartment and the underside?

Maybe your mechanic changed the route of the oil lines during the exchanger install? Maybe your oil lines are kinked somewhere? Maybe the lines are resting on the exchanger (PO did this on mine)?

I know how you feel. My old engine started to run above 250 one summer. After selling the engine to a friend he found a broken valve spring. Also, several of my fuel injectors were dribbling instead of spraying.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:53 AM
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Awesome info and diagrams, thank you I will update asap I get under it. I thought the 30 hours last week was enough but apparently she wants more attention!

Old 06-18-2009, 12:44 PM
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