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Very well done, enjoying it all. Best of luck with rest of the project!
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Looks great!! Keep up the good work.
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Chris, your car is really taking shape. Going to be a killer. I wasn't sure at first about the leather straps, but think it is going to be killer in the end. One suggestion if you have not already thought of it: fab up a mount for your rear plate that moves it off the body a half inch or so, that way the strap can just slide under it. |
Since incredible skills are on display here...
how about moving the turn signal lights, from their side location, to inboard the air vent? The original "R" turn signal light location looks so tacked on. Combining the two together would be a subtle difference and might make the nose/light design look a little smoother? Regardless, amazing work! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250611029.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250611055.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250611075.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250611093.jpg |
Great job! Enjoying your posts.
And to think, they USED to say, "Give an Englishman a piece of sheetmetal and he's bound to do something stupid with it!" |
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Great work!!! Subbed.
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Thanks Chris |
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I have some nylon spacers that will offset the plate about 12mm... Thanks Chris |
Procrastination over...let the painting process begin.....
I came across this painting method in the U.S and have seen it first hand. The results are amazing all things considered and there are a number of reasons for doing it. The method involves, amongst other things, a high density foam roller, a tin of 'Rustoleum' paint and thinners and some patience, basically I am painting the car with a roller (but I have cheated and used some rattle cans also). The main reason for doing this honestly comes down to cost, so far it comes to about $50, I like the idea of investing the money saved into the suspension (which is already all poly bronze) and Engine etc. The colour palette is abit limited but the RAL 7001 available is perfect for me (the wheels have been powder coated to match). In hindsight the car will probably never really be "completed", so I am willing to give this a try. I'd hate to spend thousands on a paint job only to re-weld or re-modify something further down the line. As long as the paint is solid I am fine, and first impressions look great... First coat coat went on last night, I wanted to get 2 solid coats on as a good base to sand back. I left it over night and this morning wheeled it out to see the results.....so far so good... The basic tools... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300315.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300430.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300535.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300648.jpg Some nice reflections and highlights already... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300746.jpg 2 coats down, roughly another 8 (and abit of sanding:rolleyes:) to go..... Thanks Chris |
Finally, someone will try this painting method. I am really curious how this turns out. I know someone that did this to his DD motorcycle and the results were amazing.
Take your time and let it level at each coat. This will reduce the soreness of arms when sanding. Which Rustoleum product did you choose? |
<<< I like the Stella Artois touch. :p
Seriously, what an incredible project. My place is on the way to Spa and The Ring when coming from the UK. Make sure to make a stop. ;) |
No bloody idea how I missed this for so long, but it's the coolest thread since Nielsen's last. Great work (UK) Chris!
I am also digging the flat six install suggestions. But it will kick ass whatever you do ;) |
Vry cool and excellent work - sub'd
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Chirs...Can you tell me more about the wheels you are using...?
Great looking project! Craig |
Two other things.
1: Pain in the ass that you had to leave the Lincoln behind! 2: I think the leather might deteriorate quickly with the muffler heat and then wet/dry. A plan B or carrying a spare strap might be worthwhile. |
Looks good but you should really consider doing a proper base coat/clear coat paint job. Heres what I would do if you were on a tight budget and I have done it and it turns out looking like a high end paint job if you do A LOT of detail and only gets better if you use better materials .
1- 1 gallon of high build primer $50-80. Block sand using a 3M guide coat 2- rent a paint booth or give a few $$ to a near by body shop for using there booth. $50-100 3- buy 2 quarts of economy base coat+ reducer -$50-100 4- buy 1 gallon of economy clear coat $80-130 5- paint car in rented paint booth I really hope you do a proper paint job and change your mind about the roller job.... the car is just to nice for a roller paint job..... maybe a beater 4x4 that will only get used it the bush. Good luck either way. |
Im a big fan of rustoleum I have some cast iron bits in the garden that I painted 15 years ago and not even a hint of rust showing,it also dries very very hard
Ive used it under my wheel arches not sure id be brave enough on a car but best of luck to you great job :) |
Looks great Chris, from David here in Portland. I'm the guy that boughts Chris's Lincoln welder by the way.
I like the rustoleum idea, why not, I hope to try it on a vintage racer someday. I think safety orange will look nice. |
Chris - Cannot believe I have missed this project until today.
Like the outlaw theme, paint method certainly reflects that!! Keep up the good work. |
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