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Carrerax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dayton Ohio.....Americas Playground!!!
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1970T fuel pump question.

My 70T is down to a bare tub. Im replacing all the fuel lines, brake lines etc. I am going to put the stock 2.2 (zeniths) back in it at first but ultimately I will want to build something with a bit more power. Anyway, it isnt going to be a track car just a nice fairly original street car to keep forever. My question is about the fuel pump. Right not it has the original bosch fuel pump but I know that I will need to change it out in the future if I swap out the Zeniths. Basically, I only want to do this job one time (fuel pump and lines) so Im trying to decide the best route.

Should I
A: lose the original pump and put a holley or something with a FPR in the original place (in front by steering rack)

B: Keep the original in original place

C: Mount new FP and FPR in engine compartment

D: Better idea that I havent listed

Thanks for your opinions. I have searched and looked at several options I just wanted to make a thread and get some opinions. Ultimately I want to have maybe 200hp I just havent decided how to get there yet. The car is a 59k mile car with original engine and 901 box. Thanks!

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1997 C4S stock...ish
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:54 AM
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Do A. Fuel pump quality has come a long way. Try a Walbro or a Bosch or something.

NOT C. Fuel pumps like to PUSH gas more than they like to SUCK it, so keep it near the tank if you can. They also don't like HEAT.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:57 AM
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Thanks Gogar! Any good recommendations on a pump that will fit the stock bracket? What about the FPR? Just bury it by the FP or in the engine compartment?
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1997 C4S stock...ish
1970 911T Restored Hot Rod....Sold
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418411-here-my-new-old-project-lilly.html
Old 12-28-2008, 10:04 AM
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What is the preferred fuel pump and regulator that people are using?
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1997 C4S stock...ish
1970 911T Restored Hot Rod....Sold
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418411-here-my-new-old-project-lilly.html
Old 12-28-2008, 02:17 PM
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Mark,

Since the Bosch carbureted pumps are NLA, I would either retain the one you have (preferred) or use a Pierburg but either one should be mounted up front under the steering rack. You can use the correct factory bracket for that. These prevents vapor lock using the Ethanol (E10) fuels we have now.

Mount the FPR (and filter) in the engine compartment.
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:30 PM
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Steve, I was hoping that you would chime in! I just dont want to mount the stock one if I am going to replace it with another one. Once again, I should just have emailed you in the first place! I was just thinking that the zeniths would need to be replaced with a higher HP mod and I just dont want to have to re-do everything! I will shoot you an email.
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1997 C4S stock...ish
1970 911T Restored Hot Rod....Sold
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418411-here-my-new-old-project-lilly.html
Old 12-28-2008, 02:43 PM
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Mark,
Steve means to keep the original pump mounted to the front cross member, under the steering rack

Does your ‘70T chassis have the MFI fuel return pipe unused in the tunnel? This is an opportunity to have a circulating fuel system, very useful even with Zeniths. For this you have the electric pump and a CIS filter mounted on the front cross member. Since you have the 911 apart, you can weld small 6 mm thick brackets on the cross member and tap them for the rubber fuel pump mounts. Use the same to mount an in-line CIS filter. You can add modified old steel screw-type fuel fittings on the tunnel fuel pipes. The bypass-type fuel pressure regulator is in the return line, either in the engine compartment or back at the front near the return banjo fitting at the drain plug. There is quite a bit posted on this.

A word of caution. Replacing the fuel pipes in the tunnel is not for the faint of heart. They are brazed in place inside the tunnel.

Your ‘70T Zeniths will also benefit from phenolic insulators between the heads and intake manifolds. Many use two per cylinder. These are available from out host and PMO. One or two, require longer studs. It is also wise to cover the fuel hoses above the transmission and in the engine compartment with ‘fire safe’ insulating tubing. These are good ways to reduce the propensity for ‘vapor lock’.

Best,
Grady

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Old 12-28-2008, 04:01 PM
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