going rate for a sc 3.0 motor
 

anyone have a ballpark figure for a 81 sc 3.0 motor , i have access to a truck again so i have the opportunity to remove my motor myself before it heads to the paintshop ,i was worried about removing it and selling it without a trailer and means to tow it , i originally was going to trade the motor towards a 3.6 vram motor i have a deposit on but i would not see nearly as much as what i see a running driving motor go for on sites such as la porsche or craigslist, anyways its a 81 stock motor 149x miles rebuilt and runs extremely well doesnt smoke it. prob on the block has 158x ,any ballpark figures would be appreciated thanks guys

I'm not clear on just when your motor was rebuilt, but if that was done recently and the paperwork shows a proper rebuild, then your motor might have more value than a "core." According to what I've heard, and my own observations, a good, rebuildable 3L core engine tends to sell for $3K.

From what I read, you didn't rebuild the bottom end? It's just not clear enough. 3K for a core seems a tad high. 4-5K for a nice running motor with papers would be entirely possible.

I'd agree about the $4-5K being entirely possible for a motor with a pedigree. At 150K miles, it's a safe bet that the valves and guides are needing attention, and probably some other parts as well. But for a motor that has received these things, that would certainly be a fair price in my mind.

Yeah, $3K for a core seems high, but it also looks like the regular price. Worn out 2.2's are going for more than $2k, and a 3L is a lot more motor. Heck, a good used 3L crank goes for upwards of $1,500.

$3K - Mystery motor, or core in need of rebuild
$4K - running motor without leakdown or PPI
$5K - good engine, complete, with recent leakdown

I went through this a few months ago and ended up buying an entire car for $8K. It was the cheapest way to get the motor I wanted.

The price of the engine is worth what the buyer is willing to pay for it, simple as that.

wayyyyy to many other variables. I like to be fair in pricing while parting out my dead red car an '82 SC.

I don't gouge people but try to get a "fair" market value.........and often times that "market" is different in all sections of the USA, and worldwide for that matter.

Add up the receipts, rolls the magic dice, come up with a number, then negotiate.

I think those are a little high actually..

i did the same needed a motor and the prices for unknown motors was way to high i bought a low milage 78 sc that ran well and a friend bought the rest for a turbo build.
this is about the numbers i found looking for a motor

ed

i bought a wrecked in the front 82sc with 82000 miles on it for 5g, had a great engine in it.

I have a question, I have a lead on a similar long block, but it has nikasil cylinders, does this add much to the value?

Gee, that's sound advice. :D

Just for Kicks.....there was a rebuilt complete 3.0 for 4K on this site just a few days ago........The Market is down and prices have followed.

I agree with what rusty heap says.......Throw a price on it and see if any fish bite.

I recently sold a somewhat rare 930/10 (euro SC engine) out of my dead racecar with good leakdown numbers well north of $5K. No exhaust. YMMV

Is a 78-79 (big valves, etc.) worth more than 80-83?

If you're talking complete motor w/ induction?

Yes.

Though the ROW 81-83's (930/10) are also worth more for their 9.8:1 compression. But, as you say, the induction system has to be present to get the benefits in price. Building one of those from scratch is a real pain as parts are scarce.

Getting a good price also depends on what the 'HOT' motor combo is that year in club racing. If you can nail that one then you can usually find a slightly higher price for someone needing a replacement or a drive line for a shell.

All the pricing above is in the ball park... The market is very soft right now, so the buyers have the power. If you can hold on to it and store it well you may find a better market in 2 years time.

Best regards,

Michael

It's all been mentioned, unless it was an unmolested extremely low milage example, it will be 5k for a good running high milage and down from there, it's great that a decent starter core is still bringing 3k. Great engines yield good prices.

I paid $2k for a mystery 3.0 last year strictly as a core.

I sold my old 3.0 with 130k on it for $1500 (to a friend) in January. It ran well but used a lot of oil. If I had tried to sell it on the market I would have asked $2200ish.

Wow, these prices are amazing compared to what I'm finding here in Ontario. I've been tentatively looking for a swap while I pull my tired 2.4 for a rebuild, which I won't have time to do until at the earliest next winter. So I'd be VERY happy with a known running 3.0 for $1500-$2000. If I could get a non-rebuilt 3.0 with good leakdown numbers for $2000 I'd be all over it like white on rice. Prices around here are min. $4K, usually closer to $6K. $8K for rebuilt engines.

edit: btw, not to hijack the thread, but if anyone is selling a decent 3.0 with decent #s for under $2k, please pm me!

I purchased a Big Valve 3.0 about 2yrs ago, had about 80,000 on it, had great leak down test numbers ( I tested them when I got the motor home again). I paid 3200, with shipping, which was a extemely good deal at the time, hell still is. You look on places like DC automotive, La auto dismantlers, and they're asking $4000-$5000 for engines with 120,000 miles or more on the them.

Rebuilt may bring in the 6k range, a low milage 3.0 with under 40k will bring a little more, case never being broken with good compression and leak down #'s, but again rebuilt can be a very sore factor for many of us, as so many have been done poorly or in our garages, they must be rebuilt within factory specs and tolerences, once an engine has reached the "need for a rebuild" it has to be done correctly, or you are better off buying a higher milage original. Like it or not these are not like the old VW'S you can through new juggs, pistions and rings and call them rebuilt. Although some pass them off as the same. The head's, valves etc, as well as the cam's all must be correctly rebuilt, as well as the carbs, cis or whatevers is in place must be done you'll end up with a real mess to clean up. Be carefull.