Now a few questions...
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237431605.jpg

On the left is the old 1st gear synchro. On the right is the new one. Do you see the difference? The groove of the old one is in the center and the groove on the new one is offset to the outside? Was I sent the wrong synchro? I put 1st gear together and everything seems fine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237431746.jpg

This is 2nd gear. The top anchor block seems very loose. I only replaced the brake band because the two anchor blocks looked fine to me. If I rotate the gear it moves by itself where as 1st gear I have to physically move it with my finger otherwise it does not move by rotating the gear. Is this a problem? Do I need to replace it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237431934.jpg

This is 5th gear bottom anchor block. Again, when I put 5th gear together it seemed very loose. You can't see this one with the circlip on, but when I shook or rotated the gear I could hear it banging around.

Look at the left side versus the right side. It is rounded where as the other side is square. Is this from wear? Does it need to be replaced?

1st gear synchro (new) is fine - that's how they are now...

Brake bands will always be loose/rattle until you simulate the slider engaging the synchro, rotating it against the energizer until it becomes a "brake," and then stops the gear.

Ok. Good. I might replace that 5th gear anchor block anyway due to the wear. I was looking at a picture in the factory manual and it seems like it should be squared on both ends.

One thing I found while looking in the manual was it says to face the rough side facing the shift sleeve. In the Bentley manual it says you only need to worry about that if you are reusing a synchro. Do these things have to be put in a certain way or only if they are used?

Synchro rings are symmetrical and can be installed either way, but they must be measured in their installed position to be sure they are within factory spec. "Flipping" used synchro rings is not recommended (by me, anyway).

No...I'm replacing all of them.

1st and 2nd measured below the max. size 86.37mm. So I think they are good to go.

One other thing I noticed...I tried to test fit the slider over the dog teeth after the gear was all assembled with the new synchro. It was very difficult to slip on by hand. I'm guessing this is normal with a new synchro? (BTW...the slider is new as well.)

Don't bother! All that you'll succeed in doing is hurting yourself! Just make sure when you assemble the pinion shaft that you have the asymmetrical teeth on the 1/2 slider facing toward 1st! You can test-shift your gears (and test the detents) after the shafts are installed and you're ready to adjust the shift forks. I use a large, flat-bladed screwdriver to operate the shift rods/forks for that procedure, but you want to be very careful that you don't "ding" anything.

Can't remember if you mentioned it, but be sure to order new collared nuts # 281 00 & 282 00 for the M/S and P/S.

I did.

I should have my new pinion shaft bearing tomorrow. Then I'm going to take it to a machine shop to press the old one off and new one on.

I looked at the old one on the P/S last night. There is a small space between the bearing and the pinion gear. You can sort of see it in this picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237481246.jpg

I'm not sure if it's even possible, but when they press the new one on I'm guessing they need to get it where the old one is? Maybe there is a natural stop on the shaft that gives the bearing the required spacing? I don't know...I'm just guessing.

Also...is there any good methods of getting the ball bearing race and roller bearing off the shaft without a press? I tried the inertial method, but these two pieces just don't want to budge. The more work I can do upfront the better I think. Although, I guess it's easy enough to just have them press it out.

Hammers hurt; the press is your friend.

M/S Locknut Removal Tool is Here
 

My roofer dropped off the special tool he made me for removing the 41mm locknut on the M/S. He did a really nice job on it. I hope it works.

Thanks coollx for giving me the details and letting me copy your design.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237561558.jpg

M/S Disassembly
 

So today I worked on disassembling the M/S.

I couldn't do it by myself, so I hired some help..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237768979.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769022.jpg

My new tool for removing the M/S 41mm nut worked great. It was looser than I expected. I didn't even have to attach my breaker bar to get it off. Here is my setup.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769114.jpg

First question...the 3rd/4th slider looks good. If it is within tolerance with the fork clearance, can I keep it? Or does it have to be replaced because I'm replacing 3rd and 4th synchros?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769213.jpg

Teeth look good on 3rd and 4th as well. (Sorry for the crappy photos.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769267.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769304.jpg

Second question...However, on 3rd gear dog teeth there is a groove that is like a concentric circle. Look at the top right of the photo below and follow that groove around. 4th gear has one too, but it's not as deep as 3rd gear. What is this from? Do I need to replace the 3rd gear dog teeth?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769428.jpg

Bearing Question...
 

So I thought I ordered the P/S end bearing from Pelican, but I made a mistake and got the M/S one instead. So I figured I might as well replace it since I have it and I'm sending out the differential case anyway.

But the new one I got seems larger than the old one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769703.jpg

The new one is on the right. It is larger.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237769754.jpg

Here is the new race over the old bearing. See how much room there is. What's the deal?

It looks like you were sent a 999 110 032 00 (62mm OD) bearing, and you need a 930 302 391 00 (55mm OD) bearing...

Just curious, what model (915/63 ?) and build number (approximate "7 4 D xxxx" ?) are you repairing? The numbers are on the raised boss on the bottom of the diff housing.

Why would I have a 930 bearing on the M/S???

It's a 915/63 (7 4 1) from an 81. The 915/63 part is scratched out, but you can see the 7 4 1.

Did you see my questions in my other previous post?

That's what I'm trying to figure out! Can you measure the distance between the M/S bearing opening and the P/S bearing opening (races removed) in the diff housing (at their closest point)? Also, does the old M/S race/bearing say "N2006E" and maybe "543021" on it?

The book says that the 032 00 bearing (62mm) is correct, but for some reason your housing uses what I think is the 391 00 bearing (55mm). Notice that the bearing ID for both is the same.

I'll have to check when I get home tonight.

I just got my replacement intermediate cover. And it has no race bearings in it!

What now? Do I have to get new bearings for the intermediate cover too???

Also I can't verify the part number. It has a 915.301.102.3R. Can anyone tell me if I have the right cover.

Good! You couldn't use them anyway. If you want to reuse the M/S & P/S bearings at those locations simply remove the races from your old housing and transfer them to the replacement housing. Check the detents - are they there?

I believe they are. I see the pins. I'll have to compare it to my other cover to make sure I guess.

I spoke to another transmission rebuilder and he shed a little light on the M/S bearing dilema.

Apparently some of the carrera bellhousings used the smaller 55mm bearing (which is supposed to be better). If you check the PET, it does show that both bearings were used on the Carrera 915's. But it's weird because this is a SC 915.

True. That's why I'm puzzled and asked what year your trans was. I looked back through the thread and found the picture of the trans, and there was no cutout for the flywheel sensors (Carrera). So, I thought that maybe it's a super-late '83...

I have a diff housing from a very early '84, and one from a mid-'85; both use the 55mm bearing.

Here's the bottom, maybe you can figure it out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237854662.jpg

I also checked my new intermediate cover compared to the old. All the detents and stuff seem to be there, except the pin in this hole is loose. The one in my old one doesn't move. Which one is right?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237854751.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237854788.jpg

Also, I removed my bearing races from the old cover to install in the new one. They came out easily of the cover, but I'll need a press to get them in the new cover. They are tight. I guess that's a good thing.

I came across this same sort of confusion when I got a replacement final drive case for my '84 (remember I had that cracked web between the input and output bores). My damaged diff housing had the 60mm mainshaft (input)bore, but the replacement I got was a slightly newer model and came with the 55mm, so I found myself doing an unexpected bearing change as well. I wonder now if the 74E diff housing that my car had wasn't original? If it was, I guess my Carrera got the last of the old style housings. I noticed that the cutout for the flywheel sensors also looked different. The 74E case cutout looked machined, whereas the 74F case was obviously cast with the cutout.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237856611.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237856680.jpg


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