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175K911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wheaton, IL (Chicago 'burbs)
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How do you tie your 911 on the trailer?

For years (decades?) I've always towed by strapping through my wheels so the car is snug but still has the ability to float on it's suspension. Now with my new Jeff Alton Fuchs and 996TT brakes, I'm challenged on what to do.

First the new calipers are too big to allow me to get a padded wheel strap through the front wheels. And second, I would really hate to hurt the beautiful finish on these new wheels.

Yesterday I tied it down for a short 30 mile tow by hooking to the factory front tow hooks and the rear Rennline hooks that bolt between the shock and banana. I know a lot of folks do this, but it doesn't let the car float on the suspension.

I tow 4 or 5 times a year to tracks 400-900 miles away and will put in 13 hours in a day to get to or from a track. Not as worried about the events that are closer. I'm thinking of putting some E-tracks down on the trailer and getting tire bonnets to tie it down.

So I'm looking for ideas.

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'86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!)
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:13 PM
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Non Compos Mentis
 
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I always strap through the wheels. I like the idea of letting the suspension do its job.

E-track is a good idea.

A friend has a trailer that was formerly owned by a racer that owns a trucking company. The trucker installed the same ratchets that semi-trailers use, that wrap around the front tires, right back through the floor. Kinda like E-track on steroids.
Old 03-01-2009, 01:17 PM
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i use these http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/214/WheelNets
they have alot of cool stuff
Old 03-01-2009, 02:17 PM
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In the front I use a short strap that goes around the t-bar tube (A-arm) toward the front of the car, and then the big strap pulls on the short strap.

In the rear I use a small strap around the shock and the large strap ties to it.

I don't really see an advantage to letting the suspension do the job on a car loaded on a trailer with suspension. The above does allow the rear to move up and down...the front can too, but it's limited.
Old 03-01-2009, 04:11 PM
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Are those lug nut tie downs a bad idea?
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:28 PM
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I've got a strap cradle. It goes over the tire and rim whole. Then you strap down on either side and it snugs up so that the wheel and tire are being pulled straight down. Wish I had a picture. Car can not more forward or backwards after this. Then I use through the rims on the back.
Old 03-01-2009, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
I don't really see an advantage to letting the suspension do the job on a car loaded on a trailer with suspension. The above does allow the rear to move up and down...the front can too, but it's limited.
When you have the tie downs attached to a suspended part of a vehicle, the bouncing of the car will make the tie down go tight...loose ..... tight.... loose ...... That is what breaks tie down straps and when in the "loose" cycle lets the hooks become unhooked.

max
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:40 PM
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I use tire nets to attach my 911. I had these custom tie downs welded to the trailer. It was done by a friend of mine. We welded some angle iron to the frame and then heated and bent some rod to make the loops for the tie downs. We also welded some more angle iron in order to attach the ratchets. A lot of work but its very, very effective. Etrack should do the same job just watch how you attach it.
I agree on letting the suspension do its work. Your wheels are killer very nice finish. You have me rethinking my Tru Design's







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Old 03-01-2009, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986911 View Post
I use tire nets to attach my 911. .....
That's exactly what I had in mind. The only thing I'll have to be careful of is the rear strap location so it doesn't hit the brake lines coming of the 996TT calipers on my 911.
I like the loops you made, but my trailer is a full deck aluminum one though it does have lots of crossmembers.
I've gotten all my tie downs custom made by Mac's so I'm sure I could have something made that would ensure clearance to the brake calipers. Thanks
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'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one)
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:21 PM
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We had to make extra cross members to get the exact location for the hoops. We did this because we were scared if we just bolted\welded d rings to the deck they would tear off under extreme stress. With my set up the hoops are welded to the deck as they pass through it as well as our custom cross members which are welded to the frame. They aren't coming off! I am not a welder but I would caution against just bolting d rings to a thin deck with no support under it.

On a side note, my car was originally from Chicago, its original owner was Joe Aurelio from Aurelio's pizza.
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MG---1986 911 TARGA, SSI'S, STEVE WONG CHIP, M&K EXHAUST, ELEPHANT RACING GOODIES + TRU DESIGN CUSTOM FUCHS
1989 930 FACTORY SLANT NOSE -- RARLYL8 EXHAUST, K27 7200, TIAL 46MM, 0.9 BAR SPRING, GARRETSON INTERCOOLER , LEASK WUR, WEGO IV AFM AND NHS BOOST GAUGE.
2012 DODGE RAM 3500 LONGHORN 4X4 "EVERYTHING BUT THE KITCHEN SINK"
Old 03-01-2009, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986911 View Post
We had to make extra cross members to get the exact location for the hoops. We did this because we were scared if we just bolted\welded d rings to the deck they would tear off under extreme stress. With my set up the hoops are welded to the deck as they pass through it as well as our custom cross members which are welded to the frame. They aren't coming off! I am not a welder but I would caution against just bolting d rings to a thin deck with no support under it.

On a side note, my car was originally from Chicago, its original owner was Joe Aurelio from Aurelio's pizza.
Your car looks great. And I love Aurelio's pizza too.

I wouldn't bolt to just the deck. But I have enough cross members underneath that I can bolt to one of those. Also, my deck is made from lengths of extruded aluminum pieces that are 4" wide and each one runs the full length of the deck. in cross section, each extrusion looks like a C-channel so when they're butted together each part then takes on the look and strength of a small I-beam. They're welded to the cross stringers all the way up the trailer so it's extremely strong while still pretty light. And the tech that works on my car does beautiful aluminum welding too. Thanks for the thoughts.
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'86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!)
'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one)
'97 BMW 528i (the sensible car, bought new)
'12 Vintage/Millenium 23' v-nose enclosed trailer
Old 03-01-2009, 05:53 PM
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I use the front hooks and Rennlines at the rear. With the angles of my straps being almost horizontal, the suspension isn't fully loaded, or even close to it, IMO.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:17 PM
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I use all of the factory hooks. I travel 300-400 miles at 60-65. I stop after about 100 miles and tighten things up. No issues.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:26 PM
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Torsion bar cover tow-hooks are a bad idea. This is what happened when my trailer was rear-ended while towing my race car. Suspension pan replacement followed. I only use the over-the-tier straps now so the car's suspension will work.

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Old 03-02-2009, 01:02 AM
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Notice how the hook itself snapped. Gives me second thoughts about using the rear shock mount tie downs. Wheel nets it is!

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Old 03-02-2009, 07:40 AM
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