Thank you! Just wanted to be sure.

I assume the battery was disconnected during the install.

Here's a shot of mine. Black wire battery . Red wire to alternatorhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1523640017.jpg

Fair assumption. But if somebody thinks black is ground.............

After wiring houses and garages, I would never assume that the black wire was ground. In house wiring, the black wire is always the hot wire. Red is also a hot wire, such as a wire that is switched or the 2nd hot wire in a 240v circuit. White is the color of the neutral wire while ground wires are either green or bare. So, just another color coding convention to add to the confusion!

Easy way to remember is that "brown is ground the world around!"

I love the metric adoption topic. Why aren't all these metric countries using metric TIME?

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I thought I could probably save some other folks some time. I just ordered and received a new Hi-Torque starter from our host. When I ordered, I asked the rep about the need for an adapter for the two quick disconnects onto the new starter. They said they didn't think I'd need any such thing.

I received the starter today and sure enough, only one terminal on the starter as previously discussed. I called our host and they confirmed they don't carry any such adapter. I checked all the local auto parts stores and no one has them in stock. I ordered from Amazon but of course it'll take a couple days. For the next person who orders a new starter, what you need is:

"Dorman Conduct-Tite Interior Disconnect Piggybacks, Double Male w/ .25" Tabs" or similar, such as "Ancor 230613 Marine Grade Electrical Double Male-Female Adapter" on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1G0C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-double-male-with-250-in-tabs-interior-disconnect-piggybacks-85613/22141310-P

hoping for the battery to be disconnected during the mentioned assembly...

And another resurrection - thanks for posting that Amazon link! Saved me a bunch of time trying to find the right one 🍻

It's a bit annoying when you buy a new starter from Pelican they don't suggest or insist you buy that little piggy-back clip... since it IS needed.

Anyone have a pic of the fully-installed starter, all wired up with any adapter you purchased separately? My new starter from Pelican came with a pigtail with an adapter on one side and a stripped bare end on the other.

Thanks, and happy Easter! 🐇

NAPA sells those clips too. There is also a style that is a spade crimp-on connector (crimp onto the yellow wire) that has a piggyback additional spade on it. Buy a package of 5 or 10 for not much more than that single one at Autozone. You will find other uses for them, trust me.

Check out this thread: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/424087-high-torque-starter-install.html

It also covers the possibility that you may have to reposition the mounting plate to clear the heater hose.

Mark

On my 85 i had to get a new heater hose to clear starter without extending battery cable. Old hose was just 3/4” too short. May have been trimmed at some point.

I had same issue as 911obgyn, the cable was too short no matter how I rotated the new hi torque starter. Finally went to Oreilly's and just got a 1 foot battery cable extender and problem solved.

Adding onto this thread because it’s not worth starting a new one. High-torque starter is in and with the power lug on top of the new starter my battery cable just is not getting there. Alternator wire is fine. Am I missing something really obvious, like there’s a bunch of slack somewhere that I can take up?

Súper kosher thing is to run a new, longer battery cable but if this were necessary I’d know it from reading about it. I suppose battery cable extenders are a thing but seems hinky.

Thats a drag.
Might have to splice in a few extra inches or run an all new wire, which might have benefits. I believe I posted about this already but the hi-torque starter I installed on my car had something different about the mounting bolts .. so, again, it was not a simple 'plug n' play'....never is, it seems.

Yeah, one of my good friends responded by offering to fab a new cable for me (he has the tools and hardware).

So, do any of y’all know the length, gauge and terminal sizes of the factory power cable? Or at least length and gauge. Then i can add like 6-8” to the length. I’m about 4” off.

I do not look forward to the idea of running a new cable from the battery to the starter but, as you say, it does have its advantages. Adding an extender is easy but I’ve got to insulate the connection so it doesn’t short on anything. I don’t have tools for splicing anything.

I wouldn't fabricate a new wire w/o removing and getting an actual side by side comparison to get your needed length - exactly. But FIRST I would trace the OEM wire all the way back. You might find an area where the oem cable can be pulled & snugged up a bit toward the alternator. It's also am opportunity to relocate the battery to the smugglers box ~ then you will have a few extra feet of wire