Follow up: Broke clock changing out battery.
 

I went thru a couple of used batteries before biting the bullet and getting a brand new one. In futzing around with the ground cable, trying to get my hands/wrench in there under fender, I made the circuit a few times. I could hear a relay every time I got a connection until I got the ground cable on there securely.

The clock is now dead. I fixed one according to the threads found here once before. Since the modified alternate gauges for that hole are somewhat pricey, I thought I'd take run at fixing this clock. Before anything, I checked the fuse, I'm good.

Is the clock overly sensitive to voltage surges? Is it the same little wire in there? Or something else to look for.

BTW, I haven't seen a clock thread in a long time (pun?), so I don't feel bad about a new thread. Especially if this can be avoided by removing a fuse or 3 when installing a battery.

Milt,

Try these. Worked on mine years ago.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_vdo_clock_repair/mult_vdo_clock_repair2.htm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_vdo_clock_repair/mult_vdo_clock_repair.htm

I've had clocks that jammed once in while. Cycling power to it made it re-start. Trying pulling the fuse, re-inserting then checking the clock. Might take few tries...might work, might not work.

I had the oppisite problem. My clock was dead and my central lock button on the console didn't activate the locks. When I changed the battery out for a new one all was good again. Mess with some of the grounds, the advice above is a good start.

How do those things work? I see a crystal, load capacitors, the active amplifier element, bias resistors and a variable cap to pull the frequency. Is that silver disc thing just a synchronous motor and the oscillator is real low frequency?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_vdo_clock_repair/fig6.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...epair/fig6.jpg

Milt,

I fixed my clock following the forums and Wayne's 101 project book. Shortly after I had the battery short and trunk fire. The short blew the clock again, I still have not fixed the clock again. (on my list)
I think they are sensitive to voltage spike's and surges.

Just my opinion.

Good Luck, Mike

I think so, too. So, the question remains, should I take the time or toss it?

I will be attempting to fix mine again. but I have more time than money.;)

This time I will solder the contacts with normal solder and ad the .3 amp fuse to the positive line. (not sure of the exact size of fuse that was recomended?)

I guess it is up to you?

Milt,
If you are going to toss it, I'll take it. I have one with broken gears, maybe I can Frankenstein it.

Tom

Hold on, cowboy. ;) I haven't heard from the rest of the peanut gallery.

Just leave it alone, who needs a clock in a car anyway, next thing you be fixin is the cruise control or maybe the AC.

The clock will always be correct at least twice a day.

come on milt

looking at your threads what else do you have to do?.:D

of all the guys i would expect you to come up with somthing.

fix or find another use for the spot hmmm

M&M dispenser ?

mood lighting ?

ejection seat button?

cheers ed

Somebody want to read what is stamped on the side of the crystal can for me? Is that what is in there?

Low frequency crystal oscillators are hard to get started.

I love my working clock almost as much as I love my working cigar (cigarette) lighter.....:D

Took mine out and added an RS blank...you know, they add weight. I sold it for pretty good $ on eBay, since it was original to the '73.

Come on....

No one is going to reverse engineer the clock and get a schematic? Is that what they look like inside?

What frequency is the crystal? What is the part number on the transistor?