Don't think so. But if you search online you will find a way to do it with low pressure compressed air and soapy water...

This may be heresy, but have you considered the UTCIS (digital WUR) from Unwired Tools? Pelican sells them. At least on paper it looks like a good alternative to having the mechanical WUR rebuilt over and over. The UTCIS-V does closed-loop monitoring of the control pressure and supports programmable warm-up cycle and adjustment based on engine vaccum. No fooling around w/ screw adjustments, just program once and go.

Luckily my CIS is behaving but if I ever have to deal with the WUR, I'm probably going to the UTCIS or something similiar. Last I read the were working on making the naturally-aspirated version multi-variable (i.e. Exhaust O2 sensor). I have a '79 and would love to add programmable close-loop O2 monitoring without having to do a full EFI conversion or salvaging a "newer" CIS system.

Pretty sure he considered it last time....but I agree he should maybe go that route.

Air leak detection.........
 

Paul,

All you need is pressurized your system like testing a radiator. Plug all known open orifices and inject air. You could use an air compressor or a bicycle air pump or a brake power bleeder to inject pressurized air. An air pressure between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient for the test to form bubbles with soapy liquid.

As soon as I finished my engine rebuild (not a Porsche but a 4Runner) this week, I'll set-up a pressure test show and tell for you guys. Old and antiquated procedure but very effective in locating air leaks. HTH.

Tony

Hey Paul,
I feel really bad for you - and I don't know if I am not at least partially to blame. I should have spelled out in detail that setting the CP's (both cold and warm) is done by jumping the fuel pump relay with the motor off. I think when I outlined the procedure in the thread last year, everyone had been chattering back and forth so much about setting the pressures, modifying WUR's, etc. that I just assumed that everyone was up to speed on this point - and I never checked again. The CP's are the very basic set-up parameters for your mixture, and these need to be set before starting the motor. Only the fine adjustment of the mixture is done with the motor running.

It does sound like you found the problem with the non-bending bi-metals. I wouldn't necessarily spend a great amount on a new regulator at this point in your shoes.

Try the following for a possible quick-fix. Set the CP's w/o the motor running:
- Disassemble the WUR, knock the diaphragm disc and the cold pressure plug upwards in the WUR housing, reassemble and connect the fuel fittings to the WUR with the pressure gauge in place. Important: leave the electrical connector for the bi-metal heater disconnected.
- Jump the fuel pump relay (fuse box - trunk) by making a short jumper wire with 2 male bullet connectors and bridging terminals 30 and 87a in the relay connector. With the fuel pump running, knock the diaphragm disc down until the warm pressure is to spec. Then knock the cold pressure plug down until the cold pressure is to spec. Apply 12v to the heater connector on the WUR - the cold pressure should climb back to warm pressure spec. Your CP's are now set.
- Wait for several hours for the WUR to cool down to cold spec Your car should now start and run quite well. You'll now need to set the mixture with a CO meter.

Sorry once again for not spelling out that the motor should not be running to make these adjustments. Hope the airbox is OK and this helps!

Steve

mine only changed by 1 bar from cold to warm.

Thanks, Steve.

I'll be checking again soon once the battery is charged up or replaced. I wish I had known about the "engine off " procedure, but virtually everyone, not just you, always talks about the CP test w/ the engine running. In the meantime I have my rebuild going back to be checked. FWIW I can try your procedure w/ another one I have just to see if the engine starts.

BTW the jumper wire should be between 30 and 87a, not 87. Again, this is what is always quoted.

Tony,

Your ccp to wcp probably only neede to go up 1 bar. What's your ambient temp in SC now? 20C? It was 10 here when I did my last test and I needed to jump about 2 bar.

Typo clerical error.......
 

Steve,

Your advise to Paul is what I really wanted to hear. In my earlier post, I mentioned that he does not need to run the motor to check his CCP, but others have offered different opinions. BTW, I think you meant 30 & 87a instead of 30 & 87. Thanks.

Tony

longhornchris and Porsche_Monkey,

I have considered the unwired tools model. If these bimetal arms and their heating elements start going and can't be fixed, it someday may be our only option.

Tony,

I can use my tire compressor to get air into the vacuum line, and then see if I get any soap bubbles forming around hoses, components and connections. Is that right?

What about the airbox?

BTW my WUR is on its way back to be rebuilt, recalibrated to '79 specs and tested. I probably won't have it back for about 2 weeks, though:(

Sealing air-box..........
 

Paul,

There are different ways to seal the airbox for this kind of test and you could do your own version. Here's what I did:
1). Put a nice sheet of saran wrap or plastic film on the inner side of the air filter and stick back the air filter. Just be aware that the perimeter of the air filter is another possible source for potential air leak.
2). Or a 7.5" X 16.5" plexiglas sheet with rubber gasket to replace the air filter.

For air injection inlet, the're several points where you could use. Namely, oil filler tube, vacuum supply for the brake booster, the nipple by the side of the air box, vac line to WUR, distributor, TV, or at the muffler (I don't recommend), etc.

The key to this test is to maintain a steady low pressure inside the system. A 10 psi air pressure is sufficient to do the trick. Or at most 15 psi. So you need a pressure gauge hook up and it will tell you if you have sufficient pressure for the test.

Additional tips:
a). Place a vinyl or latex glove over the the oil cap tube (cap in place) and secure with rubber bands.
b). Removing the muffler will reduce the area where air leak may occur, but if you decide not remove it thats fine. Cap and seal . Place glove and secure.
c). A small jar of high temp. vacuum gease will come handy.
d). Masking tape or duct tape, large dia. rubber stoppers maybe needed.

Anyone who has any suggestion or comment to this antiquated procedure please chime in. Take a look and see if you have something to contribute or share. HTH.

Tony

PS: Paul, we are on the 6th page already!!!

And he hasn't even fixed anything yet. ;)

(Good natured) LOL.

Paul is the sacrificial lamb for all us CIS owners who have been, or will be, in the same situation.

Paul, we're all pulling for you, even though the thread is becoming a tapestry.SmileWavy

I resisted the urge to say 'So far he only blown schit up'. :)

You need patience, money, and a sense of humour if you own an old Porsche.

Yes it should - don't know what happened to my 'a'. I edited my post for future reference.

Paul, I do hope it works for you. If I were closer, I'd shoot over and give you a hand. It is not difficult - please continue.

I really didn't realize that there were such misconceptions about setting the CP's. Setting the pressures with a running engine to me is like building a plane and adjusting the control surfaces during the maiden flight....

You guys are CRUEL.;)

I'm busy w/ work demands right now, so you may not hear from me for a couple of days. I plan next to see if I can at least get the car started to determine if the airbox is indeed cracked. I may also need a new battery. If the box is cracked, obviously I'll have to fix or replace it. I'll have to give Tony's test a try too. Then, when the newly refurbed WUR is back here I'll give it a go.

If you need a hand PM me. I'm cruel but willing to help. And not working right now..

P_M,

Thanks a lot. I'll PM (P_M?) you.

Yes, PM me, maybe Mark930 will also help.

Well, the newly recalibrated WUR, set to factory '79 specs is here. My parts should be here tomorrow. And once I get my pesky client work out of the way, I'll start cleaning the airbox to check for leaks, and repair the hole I found in the AAR/AAV line. Thenit's everything back on the engine c/w some new seals, gaskets and hoses.

If all goes well, it'll be just a few days.

longhornchris04,

If I can't get my WUR working, the UTCIS is definitely an option.

Paul,

I hope that the small hole in the Alu-pipe caused your problem but somehow I don't think so.

It's been a long LONG story going on and on with various threads about your CIS without any end in sight.
At this rate, we'll go into 2010 page after page. :rolleyes:

When a thread gets that long and complicated, after page 5 one loses sight of what is being attempted or what method is used to find the problem.
There are way too many theoretical questions and suppositions on these threads.

Several months ago, I asked about details for your engine like size and type of P/C's, CR, crank, CIS, FD, distributor etc.
You weren't sure then, indicated you'd find out, but we still don't know what you have.
The bottom is a 3.0? Or 3.2? But the distributor has points?
Has the worm gear to drive the distributor been changed on the crank??
What is the rotation of the distributor?
CDI is a Bosch 3-pin module? Or?

It would definitally help you and others if you could post correct details about your set-up.
The engine case has a type number.
What is it??
The Bosch numbers on the components tell the story.
What is the Bosch number on the FD ??
Distributor Bosch number??

As a ME, I am used to a methodical trouble-shooting procedure knowing first the details and characteristics of the components and the system being worked on to prevent endless guessing.
How about posting some relevant details of your engine?
If it's a mix-and-match, one needs to know what is stock and what was changed and why?

Not being negative, just realistic. SmileWavy