Clutch pedal roll pin

[NO LIFT]

The clutch felt a bit strange, then stuck to the floor.

I've found the roll pin that attaches the clutch pedal to the shaft sheared off.

Do I need to remove the pedal cluster to replace the roll pin?

Tips...advice please?

[fbarrett]

No Lift:

The shear pin failure is usually a symptom of the pedal shaft binding on its bushings, so should probably remove the whole assembly, clean it up, repaint it, and install new bushings. While you're there, look for hydraulic fluid leaks from the master cylinder.

Frank

[john walker's workshop]

i often replace the pin with the cluster in tha car. basically, you have to realign the hole in the pedal to the hole in the shaft, being that the pedal is now forward and the shaft is in it's normal place. stick a large hammer handle or something like that behind the lever arm in the tunnel so it stays put as you pull the pedal back. i use an air hammer to get the old pin started moving then load a new pin in behind it and continue running it all the way in. the new pin pushes the old one out. stiff pedal is the result of a thin clutch disc, dragging clutch cable, and a few other things. usually the pedal cluster binding is rare.

[NO LIFT]

Thanks fbarrett and john walker's workshop.

Good advice to check the bushings. No hydraulic leak, so that's good If it seems OK, I'll tap in a new roll pin and hit the road.

As far a removing the cluster in the event that the bushings are bad, how do I get to the two fasteners on the firewall? I'm thinking that they must be behind the cover under the front of the car? I need to remove the two bolts and the rear bolts on the front swaybars mounting?

Thanks!

[javadog]

Originally Posted by NO LIFT

As far a removing the cluster in the event that the bushings are bad, how do I get to the two fasteners on the firewall? I'm thinking that they must be behind the cover under the front of the car? I need to remove the two bolts and the rear bolts on the front swaybars mounting?

Thanks!

Yes, that's correct.

JR

[Quicksilver]

Make certain that you replace it with the Porsche roll pin. A normal off the shelf pin will last about 10 minutes.

[NO LIFT]

OK...new Porsche roll pin (there is huge difference between the Porsche part and a hardware store roll pin), clean up, bushings good, back together, but the clutch pedal cannot be depressed!

Now what? Any advice would be appreciated!

[NO LIFT]

bump

[Gunter]

Did the pedal shaft rotate after you replaced the roll pin and checked the bushings when you had it apart?
With cable disconnected at the clutch-end, can you depress the pedal?

[NO LIFT]

Thanks for helping, Gunter.

Bushings OK, pedal shaft rotated fine when the cluster was out of the car.

Also, car is an '88 911 with hydraulic clutch (no cable?).

As I remember in more detail...just before the pedal went to the floor, it seemed like it required more effort to push it in, and the clutch didn't seem to disengage completely.

[NO LIFT]

Another item to note...now the clutch pdeal is stuck "up" instead of depressed. T/O bearing? Rubber Center come apart?

Probably going to limp it over to my wrench today. Step one for clutch replacement says "remove engine"...more than I can handle!

If it does need a clutch? any recommendations, or is stock good enough for 4-6 DE's a year?

Thanks!

[88-diamondblue]

It is possible the cross shaft froze up or the rubber center disc exploded. The stock clutch is good, just very expensive compared to other years. Not very many options for anything else except more expensive options. Should also do the clutch fork/cross shaft update. The no drill Weltmiester kit is the way to go. Another option is to use the spring centered clutch which is what I did when I did mine.

[88-diamondblue]

A few pictures of what mine looked like.





Spring centered clutch