I need an intake manifold template

slakjaw · 05-19-2009, 08:44 AM

While installing my new PMO carbs over the weekend I broke an intake manifold stud. I drilled a hole and tried an easy out which just broke off in the hole. it is now flush with the head... What I want to do is have a machine shop build me a guide. I can bolt one side down to the good stud and use the other hole as a guide so I can drill a straight hole and tap it out.

Does anyone have a template that I can print out and take to a machine shop? I suppose I could have brought a gasket with me but I forgot it and the car is still in Nebraska.

its a '71 2.2 S ports

slakjaw · 05-19-2009, 01:26 PM

bump

jmshepard · 05-19-2009, 01:37 PM

Kyle,
Contact PP member "A Quiet Boom". He has developed a fixture to drill out studs in place. I know that he has one available for exhaust studs. I believe that with measurements from your engine he could build a fixture for intake studs.
Jim S.

shbop · 05-19-2009, 07:08 PM

Any chance that you could gently tap on a corner of the broken easy-out with a small chisel to loosen and remove it? Even with a jig, that's some tough material to drill through.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Drilling out broken studs is distinctly different than getting out a broken easy out. Not a good situation, but good luck.

jim72911t · 05-19-2009, 11:04 PM

Wow, sorry to hear. A broken easy out will be difficult to remove, especially with the engine in the car. The easy out is most likely high speed steel, and quite hard and brittle. I've removed broken taps (also high speed steel) with carbide end mills, but these were done on a milling machine with a proper fixture while going very slow. The $30 endmill was usually toast afterward, as well, but if it saved a $1000 piece of tooling, no big deal.

I'm thinking that the cost of having a machine shop build you a guide might be more than you just removing the engine, dismantling the head, and having the machine shop remove the offending easy out and replace the stud.

I do, however, like the idea of contacting A Quiet Boom and seeing if he can provide you a fixture for your intake stud, as that might save you some money.

Good luck.

911pcars · 05-19-2009, 11:16 PM

"I'm thinking that the cost of having a machine shop build you a guide might be more than you just removing the engine, dismantling the head, and having the machine shop remove the offending easy out and replace the stud."

You could explore and research the cost of the above. You might find fabricating a jig much less expensive.

Sherwood

jim72911t · 05-20-2009, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911pcars

"I'm thinking that the cost of having a machine shop build you a guide might be more than you just removing the engine, dismantling the head, and having the machine shop remove the offending easy out and replace the stud."

You could explore and research the cost of the above. You might find fabricating a jig much less expensive.

Sherwood

Sherwood, I don't disagree, especially with the number of machine shops going out of business and/or working for less than their overhead costs. I wish this weren't the case, as I'm tired of seeing very talented machinists in the unemployment line.

I'm all for supporting any shop that will fabricate a jig for slakjaw, which will hopefully keep said shop in business through these very difficult times, and also make slakjaw's predicament a bit easier to deal with.

BTW, I hope all is well with you.

dad911 · 05-20-2009, 05:50 AM

Is there any stud sticking up? Can you soak it with PB Blaster for a few days, then weld a nut to what is left of the stud? I've never done it, but read the procedure here.

David E. Clark · 05-20-2009, 06:21 AM

The fact that the Porsche 911 engine is quite easy to get out is the one small advantage you have in this situation. I don't believe you will get this out with a hand drill - especially while it's in the car. Unless you spend some big bucks and get a solid carbide bit you probably won't be able to cut the extractor. The manifold needs to be mounted on a drill press (at least) so you can cut S L O W. If you decide to go this route, you may want to try a reverse bit that will help remove the extractor while it is cutting instead of only cutting a hole in the extractor requiring you to use another extractor to remove the first one. My guess is that you will probably have better luck taking it to a local shop with an electrical discharge machine that will make short work of the extractor. Good luck and let us know how you fare.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad911

Is there any stud sticking up? Can you soak it with PB Blaster for a few days, then weld a nut to what is left of the stud? I've never done it, but read the procedure here.

We're not talking a stud here...

slakjaw · 05-20-2009, 05:15 PM

no, its flush with the head now. All came out easy except this one...

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

A good welder may be able to get that out. Had it done several times on exhaust studs on Cat motors. Build up the stud (or bolt) with weld enough to grab it with some vice-grips.
Good luck.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete3799

A good welder may be able to get that out. Had it done several times on exhaust studs on Cat motors. Build up the stud (or bolt) with weld enough to grab it with some vice-grips.
Good luck.

When will it become evident that we are not talking about a broken stud here? He broke an easyout off in the hole, that is ENTIRELY different!

pete3799 · pete3799's Garage

So you can't weld to an easy out?

slakjaw · 06-30-2009, 06:12 PM

Special thanks to A Quiet Boom. This is the tool he sent as well as the result. I would recommend the tool to anyone with similar intake / exhaust stud issues. A carbide bit took care of the easy out.

I'm excited to see how it runs with the new carbs

stevemfr · 07-01-2009, 11:36 PM

Glad things worked out. I've drilled out a number of studs by hand. There was never enough time to build a jig - thought about it often and always thought I'd have more time next time. I never did. I've removed more than one broken pilot drill bit too (small, cone-shaped bit on a high speed grinder works well) - but not with the engine in place and not the intake side...

A Quiet Boom · A Quiet Boom's Garage

Guys,

What I did for slakjaw was provide the orignal exhaust tool with three custom port disks. 911 engines have the same stud spacing on the intake and exhaust. I took his port measurement and made one disk undersized, one oversized and one on size. These (as are the exhaust disks) are aluminum so they can be sanded or filed for a good fit in the event that the stud vs. port alignment is of as was the case here, he told me off by a few thousandths.

Carbide, I don't go slow, carbide likes speed and coolant/oil. Search the web for "speeds and feeds" and you're bound to find a chart to tell you how fast to run carbide to cut HSS. What carbide also likes is pressure, I like to be able to really bear down on the drill.

For me: easyouts = never, left hand bits = sometimes, carbide and a fixture = preferred. I just did something similar to fix a broken tap in the side frame of a machine at work, far to large to bring to the mill I made a simple jig that located off existing holes in the frame, saved us many thousands of dollars of down time.

In the end I'm really glad just to help out.