Yep still have one in my tool box for synching SU carbs!

They still sell/use a very similar tool to synch the individual TBs on multi-cylinder motorcycles.

It was WAY overpowerd. In other words, just right.

There were very few people I trusted to drive that boat without me being with them. It was a serious death trap. After owning it several years, and learning it cautiously, I was able to drive it "on the edge", and know I was safe.

There was so much torque for such a light hull that backing off the throttle too quickly would throw the bow violently to the left.

So, does anyone use one? :)

Sherwood

8mm

I'm trying to figure it out on the Motronic 3.2. Not going well.

I prefer the Synchrometer, which can be bought in a number of different car-specific forms to fit carburetor throats fairly precisely, no leakage.

That's funny, as soon as I read VCR......that's what I was thinking. Remote controll with a 25' wire......That was the goods. Watched Caddyshack about 35 times on the old Beta.

I used to use one (in between bouts of "Space War" on the ol' Dec deck...) but I are all new fangled now and have me a stone hammer.

Motorcycle instructions:
step 1. warm up engine to normal
temperature. shut off engine.
step 2. remove the air box lid.
step 3. start engine and place the
synchronizer on top of one of the
throttle bodies, making sure to seal
against the bottom of the synchronizer.
step 4. turn the center springloaded
valve to adjust the red
indicator pittle to where it "floats"
in the middle of the window. note
exact position.
step 5. without moving the springloaded
valve, place the synchro
nizer on the other throttle body
and check the location of the red
pittle. adjust the throttle body air
bleed or throttle rod to the point
where the red indicator pittle is in
the same position.
step 6. if your throttle body has no
further adjustment, place one of
the throttle bodies setting screw in
the center and repeat step 3 to 5.
shut off engine.
step 7. reinstall the air box lid.

While idle sync is good, it's more important to ensure equal airflow during part/full throttle if possible.

Sherwood

Used it for the sidedraft carbs on my Lotus 52.

Forty years ago I thought it was so much more hi-tech than a piece of rubber hose to your ear described in the Healey 3000 manual....

I have one in the tool box.
How about the two metal tubes, split on one end and oval on the other, for SU carbs?
Take the dash-pot tops off insert the split end of the tube into the hole on top of the throttle slide. Insert the P shaped wires into the oval top of the tubes, swivel the ends adjacent to each other and adjust (bend) so the adjacent ends are level with each other. Then start the car and set the idle stops so the ends are at equal heights. Increase the RPM and adjust the linkage so that they rise equally. Shut the motor off add dash-pot oil and replace the tops.

The clock on mine still blinks....

My question of, "So, does anyone use one?" was an attempt to state the obvious. Of course. This product has been around for at least 40 years. I have one; started using it on my '62 Corvair. I figure there's many thousand of these in tool boxes across the earth by now.

Sherwood

The cool/weird thing is that they'll all still be working perfectly when we're all 6' under!!!

Got mine when I was 18 for tuning my '63 MGB. Cost about £5!

To work on my daily driver now (VW) I guess you need a laptop (£500+),...! :confused: Progress eh?