As always excellent photos and explanations by Peter Z.

Pete,

If I understand correctly the 2mm should be as shown below on your photo:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242172171.jpg

I adjusted the 3/4 fork.

Here is the before picture:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242174397.jpg

Here is the after:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242174514.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242174535.jpg

Does it look right now?

I put the covers on and the shift rod selector still moves freely between the forks.

Very good! That's why I posted earlier (post #105, item #12) that the adjustment is tricky. I'm really glad that your pic was from an angle that let me see what you had done. The factory just doesn't present that clearance setting very well in the manual.

Is paint thinner the same as laquer thinner or MEK?

Not sure, I don't know if its base is oil. I would not ever consider anything other than lacquer thinner or MEK!

Never mind, it's not the right stuff. I have to stop at the hardware store on the way home tonight.

I made a dumbass mistake.

I sealed my gasket with the Curil T per Pete's instructions. Got the intermediate case back on and put the nuts/washers on and then realized that I was missing two studs in the differential case.

I forgot when I removed the old intermediate cover two of the nuts were rusted onto the studs and the nuts/studs came out of the differential case. But I could not remove them from the intermediate case because the finned castings prevented the studs/nuts from being pulled out.

So I have to get two new studs/nuts. But now I'm going to have to pull my freshly sealed intermediate case off. Do I need a new gasket? Do I need to re-apply the Curil T to the old gasket? Or can I just put it back on?

You can reuse your "old" gaskets. You should be able to wipe it off the gaskets with a clean rag without damaging them.
That's one of the many good things about using Curil T.

You could use a little "Isopropyl alcohol" on the rag to help you get the Curil T off.
Just be careful and lay the gaskets flat afterwards so they can dry...

Don't use "lacquer thinner or MEK" to clean the gaskets. It will probably damage them.

(BTW: You're allowed a few dumb ass mistakes when you're doing this for the first time)

Are you sure that a new stud won't clear if it doesn't have a nut on its end?

One side might. But I don't think the other side will.

I'm not going to take it apart until I get the studs and try that first.

Do you know what part number the studs are? The PET is a little unclear.

I think I got it. M8 x 26 - 999 062 139 02

The "26" represents the installed height of the stud not the overall length. (in Millimetres)

Thanks...I was wondering about that.

I think I'm going to just buy a new gasket too. It costs $ 1.00. Which got me thinking...did I get ripped off paying $ 50.00 the gasket set since I don't think I needed half the gaskets in there???

There are certainly times when buying individual gaskets pays off big time, but buying a kit is good for a complete repair. By the time that you buy the axle flange seals, a mainshaft seal and guide tube o-ring, a shift fork seal, a diff cover o-ring, etc., you're getting up there in price. Also, when you buy a kit the parts inside are generally "fresher," which is a good thing.

My rule of thumb ( I'm cheap):

If you do diff side you need all the axle side seals, so the kit is a fair price.

Otherwise you just need two paper gaskets (or not depending on your preference) an O-ring, a shifter seal and the input seal. In which case the 'kit' is a bit expensive. (Did I miss anything?)

And on two occasions I received two identical paper seals in my 915 kit, when obviously you need two different shapes to seal the two tranny sections on a 915.

arbita1

How is our rebuild going? Any closer???

It took a while to get those replacement exhaust studs. I had to remove the intermediate cover again (after I had already sealed it). Good thing I bought another gasket, because the other one ripped while I was removing the cover.

So I have all the studs on now, intermediate cover back on cleaned and sealed with a new gasket, and nuts all torqued.

Basically, I'm ready to start the 5th/Reverse gear stuff. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend and I can finish this thing. I'll take picture before I put the end cover on.

Thanks for checking in.

I'll try to check in over the weekend and look at your pics...

Never mind. Enjoy your weekend.

This thing is fighting me till the bitter end.

You may remember that 5th gear (fixed) was loose and I discovered that the mainshaft splines were damage, which led to a new mainshaft and first gear set. Well, I was installing the 5th gear today and noticed that there was still play (side to side) in the gear. Guess what...the gear splines are damaged as well. I didn't notice that earlier.

So project on hold again until I can find a new 5th gear set.

While I am doing that. Is there any way to verify that I have all my detents set up correctly?

Quick update:

I've located a replacement 5th gear set and am waiting to receive that. I also had to order another gasket for the intermediate cover. I realized that I installed the cover without checking the location of the detent pill. So in pulling the cover off to verify it's location I ripped the gasket yet again. Turned out it was in the right location, but the not knowing was killing me and I needed piece of mind.

So I'm waiting on these two items and then hopefully I can finally wrap this up.

That's happened to me a number of times, all that you had to do was to remove the plug in the housing and look down the machined bore. If the bore is empty down to the shift fork rod the detents must be in the right place!

Sorry, I missed your last post on page 7 until just now...

No problem. The gasket is only $ 1.00. And I'm getting very good at sealing 915 cases.

I thought I might be able to do that, but I wasn't sure what was involved in getting the pin off and back on. So I tried to be careful removing the cover (because last time I ripped it too) but it didn't work out. Maybe if I didn't have the Curil T on there to make it stick against the surfaces.

Not a big deal. I think I'll have the new gasket Saturday. Not sure on the 5th gear set though.

Ok. Picture check time.

I haven't staked the P/S nut yet...just in case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244404025.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244404066.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244404102.jpg

Does everything look as it should?

Looks like it's all there. Do you plan on dousing the gear with some oil before you button it up so that it does not start up all dry? I am not sure that is the thing to do so I asked but no answers.

Looks OK - make sure that you have 1mm clearance between the R idler and the slider - with the slider pulled toward the idler!

I hadn't planned on doing that. I haven't heard that before. Any input on this?

I measured the 1mm clearance with the idler and slider in their normal positions. Then I wiggled the slider to ensure it did not touch. This was per Bentley.

I will re adjust the slider so the 1mm is from the closest point. Not the normal point. Thanks.

Some people put Vaseline on the gears, some pour oil on them. I fill the gearbox before I install it, then I try all five gears plus reverse and drive the input shaft with a hand drill for a minute or two.

If you start the car and drive away slowly after the instal the gears are lubricated immediately. I don't see the issue. I let my cabriolet sit for six months per year and I don't pre-lube the gears before I drive it in spring.

The beauty of splash lube is that it happens right away. No pre-oiling is necessary, when you have the car back together and you start the engine the gears/bearings inside the trans will be wet before you have a chance to finish checking for oil and gas leaks while the car is idling. Test shift the car before you put it down on its tires, and make sure that your install is finished, including checking the tire pressures, before you drive the car.

And Done!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244596247.jpg

...well okay maybe 95% done. I still have a few missing nuts and minor stuff to complete. But it's there. The rebuild is complete.

This has been an awesome learning experience. I want to thank everyone that helped. Especially...Pete Z, Peter (sc rufctr), and Porsche Monkey. You guys were amazing and really went above and beyond the call of duty. It we all didn't live on different ends of the spectrum (and we really do) I'd take you all out for beers.

Of course this could all go to hell when I get this thing installed and find some sort of problem. But we'll think positive for now.

Stay tuned for the next part 3 of the engine drop (another first for me)...as soon as I get my car back from the body shop.

Thanks again guys.

So I am finally resurrecting this thread after 2.5 years. Yes, it has taken that long to finally get the time and courage to install this rebuilt transmission. I finished yesterday. I dropped my engine about two months ago to install the transmission. I also did the clutch, a heat back date, some engine cleaning, replaced some oil and CIS seals, and installed SSI's (actually Dansk version) with a Monty (2 in/1 out) muffler.

Back to the transmission. I was a bit worried about how this would turn out, but it feels great! Shifting into a few of the gears is tight sometimes, but I'm guessing that may be because it needs to break in a bit? Also, I possibly need to adjust my shift coupler now. I guess that could be a possibility too. I also am hearing a whine only in 5th gear at low load. From searching it seems that could be part of needing to adjust the shift coupler. So I'll probably do that and see if anything changes. I understand it could also need more gear oil. So I'll have to check that. The whine seemed to get lesser on my short test drive, so I'll have to drive it some more and see what happens. Hopefully it's nothing serious. In the interim, I'll keep my old transmission, just in case.

But I am happy there is no more grinding into first gear. And shifting into all gears feels really good. That combined with the new clutch (which feels so much lighter now...almost hydraulic, I need to get out of the habit of pushing on it so hard), and the new sound and a bit more of HP from the SSI/Monty I am very happy!

Thanks all for helping with this. Sorry it took so long to finally get it installed.

sub

Congratulations! You shouldn't need any break-in - if it feels stiff, try readjusting the coupler. It can be very sensitive to fine tuning. Sometimes I've been able to get it perfect in a few tries, other times I've spent days trying to get it just right.

Good thread. Definitely bookmarked. I'll be tackling this job over the winter. Mine pops out of 2nd when cold and sometimes grinds when going from 1st to 2nd. I hope it's something simple.

Congrats on the success after finally getting it in there. I am planning on doing a rebuild on both my 3.0 and my 915 this winter. They are mostly going to just be tear downs / clean / reseal until I can afford to do bearings in everything... I will replace any damaged parts that I find (hopefully not too many).

Jonathon

This was a great read, thanks! I'm going to be referring to this during my assembly, hopefully this week.

Thanks,

Babak

Quick question: how did you hold the gears still while you torqued the pinion and input nuts? Or did you use an impact wrench?

Thanks,

Babak

No. If I remember correctly, impact wrenches are only used for removal on those, not installation.

I attached an old clutch disk to the wall with wood and lag bolts. Then insert the input shaft into it and it acts as a lock. You need to rest the transmission on something. I used pieces of cut up planks. Also, I think I needed to wrench a 2x4 against the transmission while i was torquing the large nut to counteract the rotational force. It wasn't pefect, but it worked.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322356365.jpg