Bearing removal

[88911coupe]

I want to replace the left front wheel bearing on my 88 3.2 since I just had to spend $265 having the right one done at the dealership. Can I use a "typical" bearing removal from the auto parts store or is there something special about the bearing. Also, would it work on the rear bearings if/when they go bad?
TIA,
Buck
88 3.2

[Early_S_Man]

Buck,

If that was just a routine bearing replacement, the dealer price seems a bit high!

While I am sure the dealer tech used a press, it is not necessary, nor are any specialized pullers needed! If you degrease the hub, then heat to 325 to 350 degrees F, the races will come out very easy with a drift and hammer/mallet. Chill the new races in a freezer beforehand, and installation will be very easy -- just put a bit of moly grease evenly on the outside of the race. You do have to work fairly quickly and seat the races fully, though! A block of wood, such as a scrap piece of 2 x 4, with shoulders cut can be used to drive the race, or a standard bearing driver can be used, too.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Superman]

Using heat and freezer is a great idea. Particularly for bushings like those in the distributor housing, but also for bearing races. Most of the bearing races I have replaced were done without heat, carefully using a drift and mallet. Work's fine, jut be patient. And the heat&freezer method makes it easier. This will take you about an hour and save you about $250, or so it seems.

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'83 SC

[john walker's workshop]

jeezuss, i do the REARS for $160 each. guess i'll have to raise my prices. hate to leave $ on the table. the heat thing works well, cause they're a tight little *****.

[88911coupe]

It's really my fault...the bearing's been whining for 6 months and I KNEW which one it was. It failed completely (very noisy) and I was near Park Place Porsche which is in a nice part of Dallas. Their tyical customers don't worry about prices. I mentioned to the mech. that the part in Pelican's catalog were under $10...He said he didn't read catalogues. Over $80 for parts/$175 labor.
One question...if I remove the clampnut does the whole hub assembly come off together? Thanks Warren, et al, your explanation is clear and helpful.
Buck
88 3.2

[Chris Bunker]

I just finished replacing front bearings on my car this weekend.
Pull the large axle nut off and then pull the whole hub/rotor assy off. I guess you wouldn't necessarily need to split the hub and rotor to do the bearings, but I did anyway just to ease cleanup and the like.
If you heat the hub in the oven @400F, they will practically fall out. I tapped mine out with a drift without using an oven because the oven was being used for none automotive purposes at the time. To install the new races, I put the hubs in the oven @ 400F and the races in the freezer for about 20-30 minutes. The races will literally drop into place now. Like was said before, be quick about it, I was amzed at how fast the races soaked up the heat and got hot enough to burn my fingers, besides expanding to the point of not dropping right in.

It really isn't that tough a job, and the parts (from Pelican, where else?) are very inexpensive.

Good luck
Chris Bunker
78 SC

[Graham Archer]

Keep the temperature well below 400 F -- the hub is aluminum.

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Graham Archer
83 911SC Cab

[88911coupe]

Thanks for the updates. I noted that Warren said to degrease the hub first. Is this to reduce smoking in the oven? I was thinking of wrapping it in foil to keep the mess down since it will be in my Mom's oven. Hopefully she won't know what I am doing till it's too late.
Thanks,
Buck