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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 26
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SC Oil Leaks
Hi All,
New to the forum so please be patient. I couple of months ago a bought an '82 SC. The seller had the car in storage for five years but replaced the fuel filter, fuel lines etc. I checked with the shop that did the work and they confirmed that mechanically the car was sound. I have put about 200 miles on it and have had no leaks. The other morning I noticed a large pool of oil under engine on the passenger side. It doesn't look like the usual valve cover leak but a leak from between the head and cylinder tower. I wiped it down and drove the car for a few miles. No leaks for 5 days. I drove it the other day and the next morning I had another large pool of oil in the same place. It seems that when the engine is hot, the head/cylinder tower/gasket swell and there are no leaks. When the engine cools, the head/cylinder tower/gasket shrinks and the leaks start. I know that I can replace the valve cover gaskets without removing the engine. Can I pull the head and replace the gasket between the cylinder tower and head without pulling the engine? Any advice would be valuable. Thanks in advance. Chris |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 466
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Head studs pulled? Sounds likely. You can search for info on the studs and removing the valve covers should tell the tale.
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Tom 79 911 SC |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pittsford, NY
Posts: 3,703
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you might want to check for a broken head stud first.
When you disassemble the head you also need to remove the cam and timing chain and if you are not careful/know how to retime the cam, then this would not be a DIY. Start with the head stud. Pull the valve cover and check/retorque the head stud bolts. You might find a broken one, in which case, you will be needing a dissassembly sooner than later. If the head studs are good, you might consult your local shop and clean the area and have them put in a dye to source where the leak is originating. That beats the guessing game and throwing parts and labor at it. Good luck.
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Tony G 2000 Boxster S |
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It could be a leaking oil cooler, they sometimes go bad or crack.
Could it be an overfill and the oil has found its way out? depending on the engine temperature it could be happening when cold and not when warm because the thermostat is open and letting oil circulate.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 26
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Thanks everyone for their input. I initially thought that it was an overfill but after the first leak stopped, I checked my oil and it was halfway between high/low. I figure that if the level had settled out, I wouldn't of had the second leak. I'll start out by checking the head studs. That seems to be the what everyone is leaning towards. I'll keep everyone posted.
Thanks again. P.S. - I though I would throw in a pic cause everyone likes them. Chris
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Really dumb question: could it be comming from the oil return tube? All four of mine were leaking when I bought my car (some worse than others). Based on your description, it could be comming from where the tubes enter the heads.
Mine leaked just after parking, when the engine cooled but the oil was still thin (best I could tell). I had the "bad" side replaced w/ my last tuneup... cut down the leakage significantly. I got lucky because the bad side happened to be the side that didn't involve removing the heat exchangers. If I update the exhaust, I'm getting the otherside fixed.
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Don't Lift... Don't Lift... Don't Lift ![]() ![]() ![]() '75 Targa in "Arrest Me" Red, 3.0SC ('79) engine, Bilsteins, Turbo Tie-rods, SSIs into 2-1 M&K muffler... and looking for my next upgrade. |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: RI
Posts: 906
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The drip at the bottom of the cooler could be
Coming from a old weeping crank case breather hose. Mine was doing the same and That's what I found. |
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CS - nice car.
![]() Don't jump to the most expensive or hardest to do repair first, often times thats just what we expect it to be and we end up with more maintenance then needed to be done. I know, it's a sickness. Aloha, Shane
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 26
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Shane,
I took your advice and did not jump to conclusions. Although I got all of the parts for a valve cover gasket change so that I could check the head studs but I thought I would try the easy was first. I degreased the case and valve covers and let the car run for 30 min. I kept checking the oil and as the oil got hotter, the higher it registered on the dip stick and registers 3/4 full on the guage. I took the car out ran it for a while and checked underneath, no leaks. The car has been sitting in the garage for 3 hours with no leaks. I put an oil pan underneath the car just in case. I feel like a real idiot. Thanks to everyone for their advice. Chris |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,988
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Nice color!
If it leaks again, take a pic of where the leak is dripping from and post it. Maybe I'll see your car around next time I'm in Reno as there aren't too many there. |
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