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If there's any chance you can get your insurance to pay for repair, I wouldn't go any further than opening up the sump plate to see if there is anything in the crank case or if its all external.
Of course, if you open the sump and have clearly thrown a rod or something then its game over. Good luck. |
Noticed something in the picture on post 52.. are there cracks on the next oil return tube socket?
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Zorin,
Sorry to hear of your latest engine issue. I trust your recent threads where you were addressing oil and lubrication issues were purely of coincidence. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/472305-low-compression-1-a.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/470690-dirty-oil-so-soon.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/468316-blue-smoke-exhust.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/470072-switched-valvoline-vr-now-low-rpm.html Get that sump plate off and see if there is evidence of further internal damage. Paul |
Well, the bad news based on your other threads is that it looks like you got one of those Motormeister "10,000 mile" engines others have posted about. They look okay from the outside but then only last about 10,000 miles before they start burning oil and then often catastrophically failing. Upon disassembly you will probably find that the way it was put together was nothing short of criminal. I have no idea how that company is still in business.
I really hope that something hit it from the outside. - Jesse |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241640192.jpg
Is it just me, or am I seeing a Turbo case in a non-Turbo car? |
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I'm not buying the external damage theory, not for a second, but hope to be proven wrong. If it is internal damage, I'd sell every single bit of the engine for parts (whatever can be salvaged), then start over with a good used motor or a rebuild candidate, depending on budget. Trying to rebuild an engine that both grenaded that hard, and is also a MM rebuild, is just asking for trouble. I'm just sayin'. Put it this way: years ago I was selling a worn out oil pump on eBay. I advertised it plainly as a spent, worn-out, useless oil pump. Figured someone might like to make some desktop art out of it. Winning bidder: Roy @ MotorMeister. |
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just take of the sump plate and take a look with a flashlight. You might see a spun bearing and loose rod cap. Loose cap probably hit the case and took a chunk. Unfortunately, this means that piston is stationary and valve damage occured. If you are lucky, it would just be the rod bolts that snapped or got loose. That means that crank bearing might have survived.
worst case: crank, case half, one piston, two valves and two rockers will need to be replaced. |
im not buying the impact theory as well. this is clearly something inside the motor wanting out and it seems that it almost made it.:confused:
oh by the way this damage is from the rod on the other side of the motor not the one close to the return tube in the pics. as the other side rod is directly inline with what we are seeing. if you try to claim this as insurance they will have a shop verify the theory. and if it something on the inside you will be stuck with the bill. if you tear into it and find there is nothing wrong inside stop and call insurance and tell them the truth.you have no idea what happened but you must have hit something. its all hub hub till you look inside;) so look inside as the suspense is killing me. pull the oil tube and see what you find. cheers ed |
I 2nd the vote to simply crush the oil return tube and remove it. If that crack was caused from the inside I'd bet you'll get a good idea of why just by looking in the oil return port for that tube.
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241710009.jpg
Little bit OT but I was wondering what that bolt was for? I don't recall using anything like that on mine and don't recall the heads having anything of the sort. But my memory isn't the best. |
That bolt is plugging the air-injection port for the smog pump. Pretty common on heads between 73 and 80.
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Zorin: Sorry for your misfortune! But now please take the sump plate and the oil return tube off. This will take 10 minutes. Then please report back.
IMHO there is no way road debris or a compressed oil return tube would cause such damage. Those cases are very strong. This got smacked from the inside. There is no other explanation why you have a rod knock when you start the engine either. Good luck showing this to your insurance convincing them "something in the road caused this crack, then I got oil starvation and internal engine damage". :rolleyes: Good Luck! George |
I will take out the sump plate today and report back.
Regardless, I think I rather just get another engine and use my existing intake systems (carbs) and exhaust (don't have any catalytic converter). I am not sure I will be patient and meticulous enough to assemble pistons/cylinder/rings into an engine. I have ready threads in this forum that people had their newly rebuilt engine burn great amount of oil. Is it that hard of a job? |
Zorin,
You seem to have a great attitude about this ("busted engine" in your sig). Before you try to make more decisions we need to know what happened. Then the pros here can help you with the next steps - what to keep, what to toss, etc. |
Ahhhhhh...my heart sank when I saw the pictures of the Red Fan of Death!!! Judging by the MM rebuild and your other threads, I believe your engine has serious internal issues. You are one of many vicitims of the scheisters. Here's my collection of the other MM threads:
The $20,000 3.6 (actually more like 3.4) big bore upgrade to a 3.2 without upgrading the 3.2 crank!: <br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=266642" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=266642</a> <br /> The complete 930 3.3 turbo engine taken in trade (w/no core credit) for a 2.7 mag case with Zeniths and used parts: <br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=260544" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=260544</a> <br /> The $20,000+ 2.7 rebuild which had to be done over by another shop:<br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52202" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...threadid=52202</a><br /> The 934 mile engine, all leakdown at 70% or more: <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=301218" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=301218</a><br /> More cringe-inducing experiences:<br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=365065&highlight= motormeister#post365065" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...ter#post365065</a><br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?%3Cbr%20/%3Es=&threadid=187022" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=187022</a><br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=254145" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=254145</a><br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showpost.php?p=2352990&postcount=45" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showp...0&postcount=45</a><br /> <a href="http://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/0/186/ripoff0186445.htm" target="_blank">http://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/...off0186445.htm</a><br /> <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showpost.php?p=4076204&postcount=280" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showp...&postcount=280</a></div> |
Jiminy F--k-n' Christmas. That looks like the day after a nuclear holocaust. The case is toast; the webbing is totally smashed inside. Damn damn damn.
We all are crying inside for you. |
Wow, appears to be the fatal damage of a rod.
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