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Dumb question from a Valve Ajustment Noobie
Just starting my first valve adjustment on a 3.2. Engine is on a stand. Read through the tech article and I'm already off track on step #1. There are no markings, just notches on the crank pully. How do I find Z1 TDC????
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There should be a mark on the pulley.
The key thing to pay attention to is to make sure the valve is off the lobe when you set the gap. Crank the engine over and make sure the valve is off the lobe, then set the gap. Out of the car it is easy. |
Take the distributor cap off and rotate the engine until the tip of the distributor rotor points to the location of number 1 cylinder on the cap.
It's easy. Find the number 1 spark plug wire on the cap and then mark that location on the distributor body near the top with a felt tip pen. (doesn't have to be perfect) Then rotate the engine until the tip of the distributor rotor points to felt tip mark. Once your done confirm the location by checking that a notch on the crank pulley lines up with the join line of the case halves. This is a picture of my crank pulley and it's markings. My car is a 1978... So yours is different. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241653851.jpg |
On my SC there are a total of 4 notches. Two of the four notches are very close together, these represent Z1 and 5deg.
As you are rotating the engine/pulley clockwise watch the marks going by. When you see the two that are close together you will first come to the 5deg. mark then to Z1. Line up with Z1 (2nd mark) and then confirm that you are at TDC on zylinder 1 by looking at the notch in the distributor housing. The tip of the rotor should be pointing at it. If not, then turn the engine around to the Z1 mark again. Hope this made sense. Again this is on my '81 SC 3.0. Good luck, Cooper |
OK, here are a couple of pics of the crank pulley notches (no markings) and the dizzy showing what I think is TCE at about 12 o'clock. Rotor shaft in dizzy is rusty....that can't be good!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241655944.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241655988.jpg |
Looks like you're close to TDC for number 1...
Can you rock the rockers a little bit? (Can you feel the gap?) |
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Peter, there are no marks on the outer pully. Here are a couple more pics - rotor pointing to TDC mark but none of the pully notches line up with the case seam as shown in pic #2. I need to pull out the Bentley manual.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658106.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658157.jpg |
The area circled in red looks like the mark to me. Is that a raised mark or something else?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658704.jpg |
Mark, in the last photo you are about 20deg After -TDC
The first notch to the right is the one to line up for TDC. Paul |
OK here are a couple more with the pully notch closest to the TDC mark on the dizzy. There are no marks on the outer pully, just a couple of chips in the paint.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241660996.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241661139.jpg |
You've got it for 1&4 at TDC. Now look for the 120 deg markings for TDC of 3&6, 2&5.
Firing order 1-6-2-4-3-5 : each 120deg apart Paul |
Thanks Paul!
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250375888.jpg
You have the spot.. I just did my intakes and it sounds great, used the feeler for 1 and 4. #3 by feel/wiggle and the other side by feel/wiggle of rocker. Double checked feel/wiggle a couple of times, buttoned it up with new gaskets and lock nuts. Next will be a oil change and the exhaust valves. |
Look like you are using the second mark on your engine block's mark, and your distributor/rotor look right if the piture's angle on the distributor is correct. On my car, 88 engine, the first mark matches my fan housing mark, and my distributor/rotor look like your pic.
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Drained the oil last night. checked exhaust valves when warm 3 were pretty loose. I adjusted one, spot on just to see if would get tighter or loose when engine completely cooled off. The results were the adjustment tightened up a touch. Adjusted 5 of six this morning with feeler and feel/wiggle method, double/triple checked. Filled w/ VR1 20/50 race oil w/ ZDDP (extra zinc) Well the engine sounds super. I took it out for a spirited drive to get it nice and hot; checked w/ stethoscope before and after, it sounded a little looser when hot like a well oiled machine. More power when hot now, the valves are opening up a touch more.
Fun project, it took me about 3 hour on the top and 2 hours on the bottom. |
What are those numbers: 5, 26, 35?
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Degrees before top dead centre...
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in this case, the TDC should be a little further to the left of number 5?
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