Electrical Spaghetti - Remedy Needed

[scottb]

I'm in the process of replacing my alternator. I've got the battery out of the car, too.

Over the years, the positive terminal connector at the battery has sprouted "spaghetti" for various electrical bits. It looks ridiculous, isn't safe, and it makes it very difficult to remove the battery.



I'd like to run one cable from the battery to a terminal block, and then have the other cables connect there. Do I need what's known as a "bus bar?" I'm looking at item 9290T16 at McMaster-Carr. It's on this page, about two-thirds of the way down: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/738/=1j1384. I was thinking that the four 1/4" posts would be more durable than the other blocks with 8-32 screws.

Also, if anyone has a different suggestion as to how to tame this "spaghetti," I'm all ears!

Thanks, guys.

[vreference]

My car has a couple open slots on the factory fuse block; I wonder if yours does too? Idealy, things are fused as close as possible to the battery so even if all those wires are fused elsewhere it'd still be nice to get them connected to the factory buss.

[whiskyb]

Hopefully their are fuses in all those wires. An easier way would be to buy a small fuse block and mount it beside the existing. Then run off of it for all your accessories or if they are all located in the cabin run a single heavier guage wire to the cabin, install the new fuse block their and run it that way. Doing the second option would clean up all the wires you have running to the current battery location. Just remember to calculate your loads and use the proper fuse.

[scottb]

Whisky: All of them are fused. I really don't want to spend the better part of a day pulling everything into the cabin, that's why I thought a bus bar near the battery would do the trick.

Vref: I'll check the fuse block, but I'll have to find something that's hot all of the time (because clearly whatever is connected directly to the battery requires constant 12v).

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated.

[dad911]

I would do something like this:


From Hella, about $14.

If you really want to be cautious, add a fusible link or breaker in the line near the battery. Remember, each line you have now that is fused has no protection between the fuse and battery.

[scottb]

Originally Posted by dad911

I would do something like this:


From Hella, about $14.

If you really want to be cautious, add a fusible link or breaker in the line near the battery. Remember, each line you have now that is fused has no protection between the fuse and battery.

Nice. Thanks.

[scottb]

If I were to do something like Dad911 is suggesting, I'd have to run a "main" power line to the fuse block. It would probably be prudent to put a fuse in the main line. What size fuse would you guys suggest?

Thanks again!

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by scottb

If I were to do something like Dad911 is suggesting, I'd have to run a "main" power line to the fuse block. It would probably be prudent to put a fuse in the main line. What size fuse would you guys suggest?

Thanks again!

You're fusing the fuses. If you want the extra protection, buy a fuse link.

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:Gq8dNsOzp7QJ:www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml+fuse+link+wire&cd=5&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

[gsmith660]

Mine has this also as I add more and more relays that go right to the battery I think I am going to splice all the smaller wires into the my 8 gauge wire for the headlight/fog lights and the put one 30 amp fuse on the end before the battery and eliminate alot of clutter.

[moneymanager]

Pretty easy. A short battery cable, a piece of thick brass, a couple of nuts and bolts, a plastic box...

[dad911]

Originally Posted by gsmith660

Mine has this also as I add more and more relays that go right to the battery I think I am going to splice all the smaller wires into the my 8 gauge wire for the headlight/fog lights and the put one 30 amp fuse on the end before the battery and eliminate alot of clutter.

Then you are not protecting the various circuits. That would be like splicing all of the connections in your house to a main breaker.

The fuses should be sized to protect the smaller wires.

Imagine tying various outlets in your house to a large breaker. Now instead of popping the individual breaker, the wires will be the weak link, and burn out in the walls first.

In your example above the right way would be to put a 30 amp breaker or fusible link as close to the positive terminal as possible, then your #8 wire feeding a fuse block, and the individual fuses sized for each circuit.

[gsmith660]

Originally Posted by dad911

Then you are not protecting the various circuits. That would be like splicing all of the connections in your house to a main breaker.

The fuses should be sized to protect the smaller wires.

Imagine tying various outlets in your house to a large breaker. Now instead of popping the individual breaker, the wires will be the weak link, and burn out in the walls first.

In your example above the right way would be to put a 30 amp breaker or fusible link as close to the positive terminal as possible, then your #8 wire feeding a fuse block, and the individual fuses sized for each circuit.

You have a point I may revise this to add a small fuse box and fuse each individual wire, thanks for pointing out my error.

[scottb]

Originally Posted by moneymanager

Pretty easy. A short battery cable, a piece of thick brass, a couple of nuts and bolts, a plastic box...

This is, essentially, a bus bar.

Milt, if I were to add a fusible link, which size should I get?

[RoninLB]

fuse links work great if installed safely. They get hot and smoke before opening.


otherwise a vapor proof CB & panel isn't a bad idea

[scottb]

Ronin: As you can see from the original picture, I have several different sizes of wire in the "spaghetti." Which size fusible link would you recommend?

Thanks for your help!

[RoninLB]

usually the fusible link is sized to wire size from the factory. The original wire is determined by the load. I've never been involved in aftermarket installs but I believe the link is two size lower than the wire? ie: if a 12 ga wire then you use a 16 ga link. Years ago it was rare that I'd have to change out a toasted open link. Otherwise if I had to install a regular in-line fuse I'd use a quality marine unit for another couple of bucks each that's waterproof enclosed. If the connections are coated in axle grease or dielectric and sealed in the marine connection is should be problem free and safe.

that said I'd find out what your "spaghetti" is operating and fuse it to that. Text says load should be 70% of a regular fuse rating. That's all I know.


ps: marine glass fuses are higher quality than auto shop fuses

and i changed link size per wire above after confirming in text what it should be as syzygy 1st noted

[Canada Kev]

Depends on the size of wire going to your terminal block from the battery. It should be 4 guage smaller than the feed wire. If your terminal was only a short distance from the battery (12" or so), I might forgo the link.

However, each power lead from that terminal block should be individually fused as close to the block as possible to protect the whole length of wire and the remainder of the circuit after the fuse. That's where having one of those fused terminal blocks is a good idea. Plus it looks neater, keeping all your fuses and wiring organized.

[scottb]

Milt posted a link to a company that sells fuse wire. I'll give them a call. The bottom line is that each circuit is fused, so I'm not too worried. Thanks, Ronin.

[scottb]

Originally Posted by syzygy

Depends on the size of wire going to your terminal block from the battery. It should be 4 guage smaller than the feed wire.

Kevin: What size should I use if I only use the fuse wire as the link between the battery and the bus bar?

Otherwise, I think I understand what you're saying -- if I run a piece of 14 gauge wire from the battery, the fuse link between the wire and the bus bar should be 18 gauge, right?

Thanks!

[moneymanager]

Not clear to me why you'd use a fuse between the battery and the bus bar. The factory doesn't fuse the line to the starter and really nothing has changed with the addition of the bar. Or have I misunderstood?