shift rod

[unclenick]

Ok, let me start by saying I did a search already and have gotten the 85 % of everyone saying to remove shift rod must remove engine and trans. I am looking for that 15 % left over whom did not remove the engine/trans assy. I read in a post somewhere that someone did remove rod without pulling. How did you do it????????? Otherwise my worst fear is about to come true!

I just bought this 78 911 Targa and must say this has been my dream car since I was a little kid. She needs a bunch of small stuff but she is a beauty.

Yes, I have already bought Wayne's book and have my project list ready for the winter


Thanks in advance, Nick.

[afterburn 549]

which rod ?? the shifter rod ?? pc of cake, anything inside the trany,,not pc of cake

[Evans, Marv]

unclenick,
There was a post not long ago about this. I think the only way that was found to remove the shift rod (without dropping the engine & tranny) was to cut out a small section on the bottom rear of the shift tunnel. Then the rod could be tilted enough in the tunnel to get it out. I think you would have to remove the emergency brake assembly anyway. If you just got the car and are a little handy with mechanical things, you can drop the engine & tranny. It would take time & some effort, but give you a chance to clean & look things over & replace things like rubber hoses, inspect CV joints, etc.

[Porschekid962]

Just curious but why do you need to take the shift rod out? It seems to me that anything you need to replace in the shifting system can be done with the rod in the car aside from replacing the rod itself.

If you do need to take it out dropping the engine and trans really isnt that big of a deal if you have jackstands and a good jack. Takes a while to unbolt the cv bolts but other than that its really not that hard.

best of luck

[afterburn 549]

NoNo may I say....I am quite sure I had mine out at rebuild seems like it came out the shifter hole ( am I hallucinating ?) thats what I think I remember................................

[unclenick]

The shift rod cracked by the coupler in the front. I guess this is a common problem. I am going to try and drop the motor mounts, slide the engine back as far as it will go and then remove the tranny mount and see if I can snake it by, if not it is coming out for sure. I have ordered a short shift kit and new bushings to install too. The coupler in the rear is new, so I dont have to worry about this one.

It started to shift really funny and then I had no 5th or reverse, so I knew it was not a trans problem(thank God).

I have been "wrenching" for years and this is my first 911. I have full set of tools and I guess the best way for me to look at this is it is time to do all the improvements to her while it is out.

I sold a Grand National for this 911 and I am finding all kinds of "items" that have been repaired less then perfect. I got some projects to do but all in all it is a solid rust free 911 Targa.

It has 62k on the clock and is true mileage, as I have all records on the car. So it is worth it to do all necessary repairs.

[Gunter]

I don't get it. By shift rod, do you mean the input shaft for the 915???
Or the shift rod with the knob on it???
Cracking either one is NOT a common problem.
Can you post a picture?
To install a short-shift kit does not involve dropping the engine.

[aircooledsonly]

suggestion, have you considered welding the crack in the car. with everything loose you can rotate shaft in the tunnel. to do so I pack tunnel with wet rags then slide a piece of leather on top of rags, then cover other areas with damp / wet towels. got leather at an upholstry shop for free. pull dr seat to make job easier. Jay, 40 years of repairing German design failures.

[randywebb]

shift rod usually means the 5 ft. long thing that connects the bottom of the shifter with the shift coupler - they do crack after a couple of decades...

if it is just the upright part that fits on the F end of the shift rod with a cup in it, that can be repalced with the shift rod in the car. But, the cup is only about 3" tall so few would call it a shift rod

the shift rods are different lengths for the 901 trans. vs. the 915, so be clear on what car you get the next one from...

[Gunter]

5 ft. long thing? You got me really puzzled now. Any pix?

[randywebb]

no pix but it is a long rod that runs thru the shift tunnel - has a clamp at one end...

[Gunter]

O.K. I looked at the Bentley and wow, that thing is long!
What a PITA when it has to come out!
It may very well be that the tranny is in the way for removal.
Unless someone found a different way?

[afterburn 549]

well at least now we know what rod your dealing with. Forgive my ignorance/ arrogance...what is at the very front of the tunnel......whole saw??

[Fishcop]

Unclenick, if you're already pretty competent with turning wrenches, then you'll be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to drop a p-car engine and transmission. You'll also be able to see to any other little problems with the drive train exposed. Seriously, give it a go...

Good luck

[TMoreken]

I had the same problem. The shift rod cracked where it meets the gear shift end (the bottom of the gearshift). I did not weld mine because of the fuel line location. I was also told to remove the engine/transmission to get the shift rod out the back.

I was able to provide a temporary fix: use a small radiator hose clamp to squeeze the shift rod and gearshift lever together. If your crack is in the same place, this will work. Of course, you must re-align the shift linkage. Also, if you are a "rough" shifter, this fix will need to be "tweaked" once in a while.

Your alternative is drop out the engine and fix it the right way!

Best of luck.

[unclenick]

Well, thanks for all the replies

I am back from vacation and time to get this &^$#^%* rod out of the car. My weekends project is to install new short shift kit, install new oil tubes, fix any less than perfect repairs and of course replace shift rod. Wish me luck as it needs to be driven Monday

[afterburn 549]

you can do er

[TMoreken]

I can't see any way to remove the shift rod without cutting quite a bit of the center tunnel out. I guess you could weld it back, but this seems like almost as much work as removing the engine. I recently overreved the engine, so now I MUST remove the engine. I'll let you know how it goes. By the way, I got a used shift rod for $50 shipped. Broken head studs were not a problem 15 years ago, so some of these "unusual" problems may soon become common!

[911pcars]

Maybe I can help with terminology.

Working from the front toward the back:

The shift lever is vertical; fits in the shift housing

The shift tube connects to the shift lever in front, spans the length of the tunnel and transfers shift lever movement to .....

the shift rod which goes into the gearbox and selects the gears.

The shift coupler fits between the shift tube and the shift rod.

I haven't heard of anyone successfully R&Ring the shift tube w/o removing the drivetrain. Perhaps it's possible, but I think this revelation would have been announced 30 years ago. However, once upon a time I had to replace a leaking front-to-rear tunnel brake line. However, the job was so enjoyable (not really), I repressed the whole ordeal - sorta like the 800 diaper changes for my kids.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

[randywebb]

OK, then I meant tube above, not rod.