3.2 Engine Swap Completed!

[mthomas58]

With the help of Carnutzzz and a neighbor the swap/clutch replacement project was completed last weekend (well actually Wed).

The only residual issue I've got is an oil leak at the chain covers - new gasket set ordered.

Things generally went smoothly with the following rough spots:

(1) Main Output shaft seal on tranny was difficult to remove. Accidentally punched it into the case but local shop was able to remove it with a couple of hook pulls

(2) Clutch fork shaft was old style with needle bearings. It had been replaced once previously according to PO service records, HOWEVER, the bonehead who did it put the shaft in backwards. The threaded shaft end (where you insert a threaded rod to pull it out) was on the inside. Fortunatley, I was able to get wrestle it it out with the help of a magnet.

(3) I could not get the tranny back on the engine as it was binding about 1 inch out. Turns out the flanges on the new bronze bushings (pressed from the outside in) were too thick to clear the ears on the bell housing. I punched them out and re-installed them with the flanges on the inside.

(4) I removed the engine solo and had help putting it back in. I rembered disconnecting the shift rod in the tunnel first before loosening the tranny mount bolts. The install team on the gound headed by a well intentioned neighbor was insistent on trying to line up the shift rod coupler prior to bolting the mounting bar. This proved to be a huge time waster. After getting the tranny bolts started and raising the engine withing a couple of inches of the rear mounts the shifter rod was easily reattached.

(5) We failed to get the clutch slave back on the tranny prior to bolting up the engine and had to do it the hard way. Working space was tight and it was extremely hard to get the push rod to collapse enough to get the nuts threaded. Tried bleeding some fluid to reduce the rod resistence and succeeded only in entering air into to the line. After getting it bolted on, bled, bledm bled, bled and bled some more - no pedal. Got a mirror out to look in the view opening and saw that the operating rod was actually off the the side of the clutch fork. Removed the slave and it fell apart in my hands spewing brake fluid everywhere. Fortunatley, I anticipated having to relpace and had a new slave on hand.

(6) Replace both speed and reference sensors as the insulation was cracked and fell off. One of the sensor was fused in the mounting bracket and had to be destroyed on removal. New sensors installed and gapped but I was not totally sure I had them plugged in the correct order on the engine. Cranked engine a couple of times. When it did not fire, I reversed the plugs and it fired up instantly.

So, at the end of the project all I've got to deal with is fixing a chain cover leak. Things could have been much worse. Without the resources of this community I'm sure it would have been, so THANKS! Here are some pics:

Miles on old engine:


All disconnections completed Thurs night (actually early Fri AM) Started fresh and rested on Fri morning and had engine out in 20 minutes. Only connection I missed was the wire harness connection near the left shock tower but spotted it before doing any damage. Two layers of 2x8's as a base under 6 ton hack stands provided plenty of hight to roll engine out. No bumper or valence removal required.


Offending/ missed plug:


Color coded connections and snapped photo on all wire connections (still got these wrong)


Obligitory photo:


Obligitory "Thanks Babe" to my better half who allowed me to buy my dream car and puts up with all my cr*p!


Rear Main Seal install:
Related seal install thread:
Rear Main Seal Install with P234 tool - highly recommended

Opted to resurface rather than replace flywheel for budgetary reasons. You've got to draw the line somewhere! I'm getting a little clutch chatter but it's minor & tollerable.

[mthomas58]

New clutch installed along with fresh exhaust hardware.

I'm fortunate to have a large garage with plenty of room to do the swap. In addition, I was fortunate to get an new roof paid for by insurance due to hail damage. Wheels on engine platform made is easy to move the engine around-removed on install to clear the rear valance.

It will never be this clean again!

She's in!

My next project - new chain cover gaskets ordered. The old gaskets were a bear to remove. Looks like I may not have removed all of the old gasket frags of the left side, but I think the right side may be leaking too.

[bigpino]

Hi Mark. At the moment my engine doesn't start and I was triggered by the remark of the swapped speed/reference sensor connection. I want to figure out whether my sensors are swapped. When they are swapped, do one still get sparks?

Furthermore, the fuel pump pumps (not sure about the rest-pressure), a checked spark sparks and is wet so the injector seem to work, but no sign of any explosion.

[mthomas58]

If swapped it won't start so I'm assuming no spark but don't know for sure.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by bigpino

Hi Mark. At the moment my engine doesn't start and I was triggered by the remark of the swapped speed/reference sensor connection. I want to figure out whether my sensors are swapped. When they are swapped, do one still get sparks?

Furthermore, the fuel pump pumps (not sure about the rest-pressure), a checked spark sparks and is wet so the injector seem to work, but no sign of any explosion.

From another thread.....check the DG and BG wire labels on the engine side of the connectors

"The reference sensor can be checked at the ECM harness using pins 25 & 26. The speed sensor is checked at pins 8 & 27. Readings for each should show resistance of .6 to 1.6 kOhms.
You show a preference for checking at the harness... haven't checked there, but am assuming the pins are nicely numbered. Did you take the seat out to gain access, or is the harness long enough to remove from under the driver's seat?
You can also check the sensors at the vertical connector strip on the left side of the engine compartment (my preference). It's just beyond the black blower tube. The white one at the top is the head temp sensor connector. The lower two are the reference & speed connectors. You may want to take the blower tube out to have more room. Disconnect the lower two wires from the connector strip & check pins #1 & 2 (the two lower pins in each connector) for resistance. They should each read 960 ohms + or - 96 ohms. The wires are supposed to be marked so you know what you're testing: DG is the speed sensor and BG is the reference sensor. For no start problem, BG is probably the culprit to watch out for."

[bigpino]

Thanks for your swift response. I will check it in the engine compartment, since that's the place were I might mixed up the connectors. However, I'm not sure to find the labels for they are being very old. Measuring on the ECM side will give the most certain conclusion.

It's still odd, since both sparks and fuel are provided. The gasoline is about 4 years old though . . .