what kind of exhaust stud?

[BMB]

76 2.7.. B.A. book say's to go back to steel studs for exhaust.others say dilivar or raceware.what do i do and what do i buy?

[Kurt B]

I think the correct answer is: buy a 3.0. See the other post on 2.7 rebuild.

(I heard diluvar studs are better if they don't snap early on. Steel studs don't snap)

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Kurt B
(smashed)1984 Carrera Cabriolet
911 Page
carrera_cabriolet@yahoo.com

[needlevalve]

Kurt, what post are you refering to? I am interested to read it as I am looking at some major engine work on my 2.7.

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Matt Macpherson
1975 911 S
nvalve@yahoo.com

[Early_S_Man]

Matt,

I think Kurt was referring to your thread about 'Ugggh, Valve Guides!!!'

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[BMB]

hey! remember me? i'm the guy that asked the question.your input is appreciated, but i asked about exhaust studs.

[This message has been edited by BMB (edited 06-09-2001).]

[ggalloway]

When I installed my SSI's, I replaced a couple of the exhaust studs that either broke or came out with studs that I bought at the local hardware store. They are you basic steel studs M8x1.25. I don't remember the length but you can just compare them against an old one.

Dilavar and Raceware are types of head studs. Is that what you meant?

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Greg
72 911S

[Superman]

I think that's what he meant. One of my Dilivar exhaust side head studs is broken. I will replace all the exhaust studs with factory steel. Your case is magnesium and the steel studs will stress the case, at least more than the later aluminum cases. The Dilivar studs will stress the case less than the steel ones, but they seem to be more prone to break. You would surely need to Timecert the threads in the case.

Unfortunately, simple answers only happen when you don't know the facts. Now you know that there are dangers with both, particularly wiht the magnesium cases.

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'83 SC

[Early_S_Man]

BMB,

The question you asked is ambiguous, and you have provided no information as to mileage, symptoms, or what the current problem with your engine is! Are you expecting us to play a guessing game?

Bruce Anderson has addressed 2.7 engines several times in his technical column in the past two or three years!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Wayne 962]

Again, there seems to be some confusion here.

Exhaust studs - are screwed into the bottom of the heads. These often rust and break when you are trying to remove your muffer. They are short, and made of steel. They have always been made of steel. There isn't too much controversy over these, as they are plain vanilla exhaust studs. They are indeed a pain to fix if they break, but you can repair them with the engine in the car.

Head Studs - These are inserted into the case. They are shanked, meaning that they have threads on both ends, yet the center section is of less diameter than the threads on the ends. The Dilivar studs used on the 3.0L motors had a tendency to snap and break (my 3.0L had 8 broken ones on it!). Raceware is a good replacement, but they are VERY pricy. I recommend using the standard steel studs used on the early motors. I have never heard of these snapping. I have had a few conversations over email with Bruce Anderson, and I think that we are both in agreement on this. You can also use the newer 993 studs, but I don't think that there is enough 'data' out there on their reliability to risk it. I would go with the steel ones.

-Wayne