Chain housing removal

Schocki · 10-02-2002, 08:50 AM

Guys,
Short question: Has anyone tried to remove the chain housing with the camshafts still installed. Is there enough clearance when I remove the chains, tensioners, chain ramps? Or do the camshafts have to come out? My car developed a small oil leak between the chain housing and the crankase. Just wanted to check if this would be possible.
Would you also recommend to use some sealer (if yes what type) to improve the gasket seal?
Thanks for any advice
Michael

1991 944S2
1972 911T Targa

kwikt 911 · kwikt 911's Garage

I did mine several times and is tricky as hell. It barely has enough room to slide off the case studs and clear the camshaft. It takes alot of various manuevering of the housing but can be done. When assembling it seemed to just slide right into place. BTW I use the grey colored gaskets instead of the green colored [seemed to always leak]. Good luck!

Kevin Kipta
72 911T/E

Superman · 10-02-2002, 03:21 PM

Yes, it is possible. I believe the dowel pin thingies have to be IN in order to accomplish this. The ones in the mating surface between the case and the housings. Yes, it is possible.

john walker's workshop · 10-02-2002, 03:22 PM

just make sure that the 2 line up sleeves stay in the case and not in the chain housing, otherwise the housing won't clear the cams. the sleeves fit into a recess around 2 of the 5 8mm studs between housing and case. twist them out with small visegrips and put them back in the case once the housing is off, if necessary.

88911coupe · 06-12-2009, 10:38 AM

I'm trying to track down a leak that MAY be the same as the OP. Is it possible to just get the rear cover of the chain box and then tighten up the nuts that are inside the box? I was thinking I may be able to remove the muffler and heater pipe, then support the engine and remove the large support bar at the rear of the engine. It looks like I could then remove the rear section of the engine tin.
Thanks,

kwikt 911 · kwikt 911's Garage

Remove the rear bumper, exhaust, upper rear engine tin, then remove the 10mm cover nuts then remove chain covers and you're there. The 13mm nuts to the housing are right there. Be VERY careful on tightenig the 13mm nuts. You can over tighted and pull the threads out!!!!! More than likely you need to replace the housing gaskets.

Kevin

88911coupe · 06-12-2009, 05:01 PM

Kevin, thanks, that was what I was thinking. I've managed to tighten up the two large nuts that the bottom and will test it tomorrow to see if that helps. Otherwise it will take a little more digging to go into the chain boxes and get those snugged up.

kwikt 911 · kwikt 911's Garage

Oh and one more thing. Raise the rear on car ramps and drain the oil from the engine only. It could otherwise be a little messy. Good luck!!

Kevin

lr172 · 06-12-2009, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88911coupe

Kevin, thanks, that was what I was thinking. I've managed to tighten up the two large nuts that the bottom and will test it tomorrow to see if that helps. Otherwise it will take a little more digging to go into the chain boxes and get those snugged up.

I have this same problem and was wondering how to resolve it. Would you post your results of this effort or PM me with it? I may give it a try if it works for you.

Thanks and good luck.

Larry

CBRacerX · CBRacerX's Garage

I was not able to do it with a 964 engine, glad to hear the early ones can get away with it.

88911coupe · 06-23-2009, 07:55 PM

OK...thought I had this licked but apparently not. I'm going to have to remove it but as the OP asked, is there any reason to not use some sort of sealant considering following the correct procedure has still resulted in a leak?

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

As noted, you can pull the complete chain housing off, with engine intact. (I have done this, and even timed my cams doing this). But if your leak persists (I have one on my 930 same place that wont go away), I suggest before using sealant, try and identify where. If it is coming from the housing cover - check the cover plate is square - sand it down finely on flat glass sheet and check is even.
If it is the housing/crankcase, then need to make sure both surfaces dead clean of broken/old gasket material. Unless you get complete gasket off, look very closely. Try and clean surface up by hand on both sides. Should not need sealant unless something weird.
If is behind cam seal (top of housing), then you have a job. But can replace seal while engine still in car - just a bit tricky torqueing cam nut in confined space. (Hopefully not a 2.7 type nut - just been wrestling with one on bench, would be very tricky in car).
The RHS seemed easier to this this job than LHS (more cluttered).
Alan

88911coupe · 06-24-2009, 10:08 AM

May be a dumb question but if the cam does not rotate can the gear just be reinstalled or is there really no way to avoid retiming the cams?

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

You have to retime the cams. I have tried several times to shortcut this, by marking the two sprockets (not easy to mark the rear one). I just doesn't work. The position required is so precise in terms of any leeway.
It is quicker and more reliable to bite the bullet and start from scratch. IMHO.
Alan

kwikt 911 · kwikt 911's Garage

Another thing concerning the gaskets over the years. There are at least 2 gasket manufacturing companies. One is thicker than the other. In a complete engine gasket set, a thinner type housing gasket(green or tan color I believe) was included. But when I ordered just the housing gasket by itself it was a thicker type from Vertex. Good luck!

Kevin

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRacerX

I was not able to do it with a 964 engine, glad to hear the early ones can get away with it.

Chris,

Did a complete engine teardown 2 weeks ago and I couldn't get the chain housing off the crankcase with cam shaft/housing in place. Anyone to share their experience with similar engine? Thanks.

Tony