Chemicals You Should Have

[RWebb]

thought it would be useful to collect a compilation of chemicals one should have on hand (in stock) to DIY work on your Pcar...

organized by task; please post links to good threads as you add to this

my start:

Electrical Contacts:
PPG - I have this & assume it is good
ProGold - was sold for high end stereo contacts
Dielectric Grease - for all wiping or fixed contacts; connection pressure displaces the grease from the contact area - {search for the terms and name Jim Sims for more info}
10% acetic acid solution (very strong vinegar) - soak a corroded electrical contact in this for a day or two to magically clean and brighten [search for the terms + Sherwood for more info] - if not in your grocery outlets, you can mix this up by getting film photography chemicals (Kodak) and diluting as appropriate


Loosening Seized Fasteners:
CRC now has a product called "Freeze-Off" - seems to work
pb Blaster - effective but stinks
Kroil - I like this one; not a tinker
Wurth also makes a product
---> I tend to spray these products indiscriminately at known "muthas" (fasteners that are typically hard to loosen) whenever I am under the car; if I eventually have to remove the fasteners, my hope is that it will be a lot easier...

note: WD-40 is not a penetrant - use it for water displacement and rust protection

Lubricants:
Wurth HHS for door hinges, latches, sliders on the seat & etc.
Swepco Chain Lube in a rattle spray can - got to be good, eh?
[let's avoid piling on here re motor oils and trans. lubes...]

Protectants:
Gibbs
Corrosion Block
Boeshield T-9 -- good enuff for aircraft, so...
Tecty - Grady likes this waxy protectant for Mg and other parts, and it was used by Porsche AG but it is hard (impossible) to find in DIY sizes

Antiseize:
- for lug nuts, Porsche specified a particular Optimolloy in a TSB
- rather than keep both silver and Cu based ones around, why not just use the Cu based one everywhere (??) - any reason not to?
- you can also buy the easy to use stick forms now from Loctite

Fastener Locking & Bedding Compounds:
- Loctite has whatever you want - I hear they bought out Permatex, so maybe they are identical now...
Purple - the lowest strength; I use it all over just to prevent vibration (a long held paranoia of mine from way back when I smashed a VW bus all over the Oregon deserts)
Blue - hand tool removal
Blue" - forget the stock #, but this one will work even w/o haviung to use their special cleaner on the threads
Green - same level as Blue, but will seep into threads after the fastener is installed. I use it after I torque a fastener, tho it really shouldn't matter, see paranoia comment above
Red - rarely used; requires heat to break the seal and permit fastener removal

[docrodg]

Isn't beer a lubricant???

[mnmasotto]

What dielectric grease does pelican sell? Link?
Also, I cannot seem to find POR 15

[HarryD]

I would add:

Rust Treatments

1-Naval Jelly, Rust Mort, or other spead on wash off Rust killer;
2-Extend or other Spray on rust converter/primer coat; and
3-POR 15 (for those who like it)

Cleaners

1-Brake Cleaner
2-Carb Cleaner
3-Mineral Spirits (or Stoddard Solvent)

Adhesives
1-JB Weld
2-2 part epoxy
3-3m Weather strip adhesive

Lubricants
1-Triflow lube

[old man neri]

Don't have anything to add to the chemical list but I do strongly recommend folks get some blue nitrile gloves whenever using these products.

[RWebb]

good idea

Harry - I use TriFlow on locks - is that where you use it?

also, rust converter also known as "rust reducer"

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by RWebb

good idea

Harry - I use TriFlow on locks - is that where you use it?

also, rust converter also known as "rust reducer"

Randy,

I use Triflow on other, hard reach places where I need light lubrication. The rollers on the windows, the joints and mechanism on my Targa Top are two that leap to mind.

Also, we also should have a can of light oil for lubing Bell cranks in the throttle linkage etc.

[Monza_dh]

Originally Posted by old man neri

Don't have anything to add to the chemical list but I do strongly recommend folks get some blue nitrile gloves whenever using these products.

I was going to mention the same thing. I have a number of these mentioned above and have found myself using gloves more and more even just clean the windows or wax the car. I also will thrown on a surgical type mask to filter half the crap out before I breath it all in as well. THere is somethign to be said about breathing in all the fumes etc. WD40 cant be all that good in your lungs.......

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Monza_dh

I was going to mention the same thing. I have a number of these mentioned above and have found myself using gloves more and more even just clean the windows or wax the car. I also will thrown on a surgical type mask to filter half the crap out before I breath it all in as well. THere is somethign to be said about breathing in all the fumes etc. WD40 cant be all that good in your lungs.......

Monza:

A surgical type mask will not remove the toxic parts of the fumes. Only a chemical rated respirator may be effective and even then you are not sure. your best bet as a DIY'er is to work in a well ventilated place and minimize the quantity you expose yourself to.

I totally agree nthe Nitrile/rubber gloves. I use them for just about all of my work around the house and car now. I like the minimum cleanup when I am done.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by mnmasotto

What dielectric grease does pelican sell? Link?
Also, I cannot seem to find POR 15

Lots of POR 15 outlets on the Net. My last can came from a Pontiac restoration outfit in Fullerton that happens to be a distributor. Even at that, I had it shipped, what? 30 miles?

[RWebb]

any FLAPS for the dielectric grease

"Only a chemical rated respirator may be effective and even then you are not sure. "

- yes, and then there's skin absorption...

[frankc]

Dow Corning 112 is a great high-temperature silicone based lubricant/sealant I use on O-Rings & brake caliper rebuilds. You'll probably have to buy it off the internet somewhere, but one tube (150g) should probably last you a lifetime unless you do this sort of thing for a living.

[HarryD]

And then there is "good ole" Bosch Distribitor Grease for those of us who still have points. One tube will last several lifetimes.

[carrera turbo]

i use corrosion X and this stuff works great. they make a penetrant and a sealer to put on battery connections and anything you dont want to rust .

cheers ed

[gtc]

Along those lines, I keep a can of battery acid neutralizer spray which I use whenever I have a battery out or when corrosion forms on the terminals. I wish my PO's had used it a little more often
I also have an aerosol can of white lithium grease. Pretty handy for getting at mechanisms inside the doors or other hard to reach areas without having to disassemble everything.

[JFairman]

I always keep a gallon of fast evaporating wash laquer thinner for cleaning certain things.

[911pcars]

Randy,
Thanks for the storable list.

I might add; motorcycle chain lube spray. The lube is sprayed onto the target with a solvent carrier that, once evaporated, leaves behind a relatively viscous high-strength grease for those hard to lube, infrequently serviced locations such as the window mechanism, pivot joints, etc.

Lithium-based grease is water-soluble, so watch out if the mechanism is exposed to weather or road splash.

Sherwood

[RWebb]

sure Sherwood, I thought it would be useful to collect all this info...

for m/c chain grease, I use the Swepco chain lube (above)

for brake caliper rebuilds, I use the magic Porsche brake paste - forget the exact info on it tho, but dealer will have it. It comes in a little brown jar like a snake oil herbal salve...

Bosch Distributor Grease (sqeeze tube) is great for clutch pivot bushing bearing shaft and the other stuff thereabouts.

[scottb]

Interesting thread. Subscribing.

[rw7810]

I would add 3M General Adhesive Remover


You can also list Gibbs under penetrating oil. The Wurth product is Rustoff - really good stuff.