Do I have to split the case?
 

Do I have to split the case to replace the wristpin bushing (in order to remove the rod)
I nicked it good trying to get the piston pin out.

Thanks,http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...ngblock073.jpg

not nessarily but if youre that far down reseal the case any way.
Rod bushing, put the pin back in fit it because the pin floats so it only has to be free.

Bruce

That's a "wrist pin bushing" not a rod bushing.

At this point you need machine work on the rod, best to split the sucker and do it right. Have them all re-bushed and balanced, it's the only way to be sure.

Yea, Bruce I'm getting pretty far down aren't I.
Splitting the case will definitely make things 100%.
I suspect the #8 o-ring is as worn as the others and thats the only way to get to it.
Also contamination while tearing down is a thought.
I could also check the bearings while I'm in there.
The thing is the car ran great (besides oil leaks) until I discovered the broken head stud.

Thanks,

Leakproof.

It's piece of mind at this point, add some ARP rod bolts and coated bearings, you can call them "modifications" if it helps ease the pain of splitting the case. ;)

You can remove the rod without splitting the case. Since the nick is on the edge it's not a big deal. I would just take down the high spots with a rat tail file.

I would make the decision on whether or not to split the case depending on the miles on the bottom end. If it's got a ton of miles then the bottom end will need rebuilding anyway. If it's low miles then why create more work when it's not necessary?

you could clean that up with emory cloth

how many miles on your '79??

maybe it is nearly time to split the case anyway

Sorry guys, I should no better when asking for your valued advice. 109,893 on the clock.

109k Miles is not enough to warrant splitting the case to replace bottom bearings IMHO.
As for the wrist pin bushings: I f there is no play, or play within specs, I would file the nick a little and leave it.
It's your call.
If the bushing needs to be pushed back into place, use a C-clamp with pieces of ALU or brass for protection. Make sure that the holes for oil delivery line up.

I would do a valve job.
If the cams don't have any galling on the lobes, re-install.

Toss up. You could double those miles easily before rebuilding the bottom end but on the other hand a completely rebuilt motor is worth more than a motor with just the top end rebuilt.

It's quite possible, however, that this motor will last the life of the car without ever rebuilding the bottom end. If it were me I think I would probably just remove the rod, clean the burr and re-attach the rod with new rod bolts. I would inspect the rod bearings however to insure that the bottom end is healthy.

Definitely going to inspect the heads. probably wise to replace the valve guides at this point and any thing else that needs refurbishing.
So the rods (if need be) can be removed without splitting the case. Thats good news.

Thanks.

Leakproof.

if well maintained, these motors can go 200k or 300k w/o any bottom end issues.

the decision is mainly one of paranoia -- or prudence and depends on the maintenance history of the car...

I did it on my 3.2L (when hotrodding it) but everything was fine - I had no idea of the car's history only that somebody wrecked it and I then bought the motor...

reseal the case and change the intermediate bearings and chain ramps, mike the mains and look to see theyre clean on the surface, let the rods be, just reseal because the same oil clean on the mains is indictative of the rods. The bottom of a 78/79 3.0 is good for 200K +

Bruce