I'm in trouble with my WUR

[rpmoore2]

Sorry for starting a new thread.

My car has been in the shop for over a week and I now have a fuel leak on the inlet side of the WUR. The connection towards the firewall. The tech said all new brass washers were installed and it wasn't leaking for him. Drove it home and now its leaking. The other major issue is the car won't start after sitting around 45 minutes. Cold start is fine now. He said it was starting first crank warm or cold.

Now the major issue is the WUR is bosch part 0438-140-069 and we can't find a replacement anywhere.

What do I do? It sounds like the unwired tools electronic WUR is my only option.

I'm in so much trouble.

[Jim Sims]

You can get the WUR rebuilt in a couple of weeks or so for a reasonable amount.

[equality72521]

I would replace the copper seals first. I don't care what the mech says. It's leaking on the supply side of the WUR and allowing residual line pressure to drop. This is causing the hot fuel to vaporize (vapor lock) causing a hard start while the engine is hot. When the engine (and fuel lines) cools the fuel condenses back to a liquid and it starts easier. It's the same symptom of a bad fuel accumulator. If it is leaking at the seal then the seal is bad. Period.

[kodioneill]

Post a want ad on the classified section for a wur if you end up needing one.

[fritzgator]

You say it's the port on the firewall side. check to see if the fitting is in upside down. if it's the same thread on both sides this could be your problem.

[rpmoore2]

I believe I need a 12mm and 14mm wrench. Bottom wrench holds the fitting as I turn the top fuel line counter clockwise. Is this correct? Also I was going to borrow a CIS gauge tomorrow. Is the connection on the FD the same concept??

For tightning I was told about 11 pounds which I think is pretty light.

I'm taking tomorrow off to work on it. Frankly at this point I can't make it any worst. My wife already thinks it should go to the junk yard.

Also jump wire for the FP relay I think it is between 87A and 30. Is 20 gauge wire ok?

[rpmoore2]

Any one have a book on Bosch part#s for part # 0438-140-069 . What year did this WUR come from?

[ZAMIRZ]

You can buy a Digital WUR from Unwired Tools, have it properly installed and tuned and kiss your WUR problems goodbye.

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by equality72521

I would replace the copper seals first. I don't care what the mech says. It's leaking on the supply side of the WUR and allowing residual line pressure to drop. This is causing the hot fuel to vaporize (vapor lock) causing a hard start while the engine is hot. When the engine (and fuel lines) cools the fuel condenses back to a liquid and it starts easier. It's the same symptom of a bad fuel accumulator. If it is leaking at the seal then the seal is bad. Period.

+1
fix the leaks first
has it been determined the WUR is bad?
i would not buy anything until i was sure.
there are a lot more test to do and other things it could be

[rpmoore2]

I don't have the pressures other than they started at 1.4 bar for Cold. The tech adjusted the WUR to a higher pressure for the cold start to get rid of hunting. Warm start was perfect according to him. He also tightened the fittings and said they were free of leaks. The thing is the tech is onto the next project and can't help me right at the moment and I'm sitting with a leaky WUR in a garage my wife is angry about. I sort of feel I'm stuck fixing it myself.

Also I called Unwired Tool this morning and they are not returning my call.

I also called SpecialTAuto.com and they don't have my Bosch part for my WUR.

The tech is calling his Bosch distributer this afternoon to help me to see if one can even be found. He feels this is my only option given he worked on the car for a week.

Bottom line I trust the tech - they are pretty respectable and he races a 914 so (although mistakes do happen) I think they are very reputable.

[equality72521]

So before you even determine that it's actually a bad WUR you're going to spend $600+ on something to replace it? Perhaps the banjo fitting was over tightened by the mechanic and was not leaking when it left but during the heat cycle on the drive home it cracked. Have you looked at it?

[Paulporsche]

After you determine if you can fix the leak, you should make sure the WUR is working properly or not before you go replacing it. I had mine cleaned and repaired recently for $175. I then used a fuel pressure gauge borrowed from a fellow Pelican to test and reset the CPs. Someone has posted a video on doing this. I think it was Ricks911s. You can find it via his name or searching mine and CIS. The WURs can also be easily made so you can vary the cold CP easily.

I think your WUR is from a late 79. Check the Bosch website to verify.

If you PM me I will tell you where I had mine refurbed.

[rpmoore2]

I believe the CPs were set already by the shop. My cold start this morning was ok. The car idled without hunting. I am going to pull the banjo fitting (didn't know the name until now) and look at the condition myself. I'm boring a CIS gauge in the morning from another pelican. I'm sure I will have a ton of questions in the morning as I dig into the WUR. Is there a way to tell if the fitting is the right way up or down? And can someone confirm the jumping of the FPR? I think it is from 87a to 30. Wish me luck.

[rpmoore2]

Oh I will have a Fire extinguisher by my side.

[fritzgator]

if you can take a pic of your WUR please do post. show us what your working with. different fittings depending on whats been worked on in the past. Pauls right, don't go spending unnecessary $$. BTW mine was just rebuilt by special t auto, after determining the problem that is. I would describe the service as...well, sloth like(7 week turnaround).
Paul who did yours?

[vash]

fix the leaks. you can find crush washers if you look hard enough. like someone mentioned above, how can you expect to hold your warm control pressure if there is a leak? cant happen. fix the leak, and i bet all will be well.

[rpmoore2]

The supply line nut on the banjo fitting was loose to the point I could turn it with my fingers. Hmm The supply line took a 10mm wrench. I need fuel line wrenches.. I will report back in a half hour if the warm start is ok. With the leak I had it should be.... Thank you everyone for jumping in today with some really good responses.

[rpmoore2]

Let the car sit for an hour and it started 1st try.

Again I want to thank everyone. For now my warm up regulator is fine.

I still want that unwired tools version. Not for now though. Since I am a software developer, I like the idea of playing with the control pressures.

No more CIS complaints today!

[tonypai]

Originally Posted by rpmoore2

Let the car sit for an hour and it started 1st try.

Again I want to thank everyone. For now my warm up regulator is fine.

I still want that unwired tools version. Not for now though. Since I am a software developer, I like the idea of playing with the control pressures.

No more CIS complaints today!

Software developer.......I think you want EFI!

[rpmoore2]

Software developer.......I think you want EFI!

Yeah... I got to admit this mechanical stuff is one big pain. Isn't EFI lots of $$$$$$