adding fibreglass turbo flares.. cracking?
 

Hi,

I've got a set of turbo flares in fibreglass. A friend has told me that people are reluctant to add fibreglass flares, as they may crack.

I understand in theory this is the case.

However I'm seeking opinions from people who have added fibreglass flares.

Would you do it in metal if you did it a second time round?

Thanks,
Adam

All metal is best choice for finish and resale.

Metal rear with full FG front fenders works to.

Riveted on FG is good for a race car.

Just glassed flairs is concitered a poor soulition and will hurt value.

The exceptin migh be the very wide RSR full rear quarter pannel.

you will drastically devalue the car.

I once had FG 930 flares installed on a 911 I used to own. After a while, the ones in the rear ended up showing cracks at the seams. I also had an old mustang and had a fiberglass hood scoop added to it. It cracked at the seams as well. This was all over 10 years ago so I don't know if bonding materials have improved beyond that.

Thanks for the replies...

I'm getting mixed information... Some people cringe at the thought of using fibreglass flares. Others claim to have had great success with long lasting high quality results..

Can anyone give me advice on how to prevent seams forming? I have read that some have used glass cloth in between the metal and fibreglass to prevent cracking.

Thanks for your help

I can't remember ever seeing fiberglass-bonded-to-metal flares that haven't cracked over time. It's a kludge.

i'm not seeing any mixed info here. fiberglass is good for bumpers, hoods and race cars.

you wanna go 'streetable race car' with it and put on glass flares with dzus (sp?) fasteners then you're talking.

For the DIY'er fiberglass could look more appealing due to the ease of installation, but you should be prepared to replace/repair them as they will eventually require it.
Me, I picked up a MIG, have been doing a little practicing, and will go that route.

I've read some posts, including those by KevinP73, who seems to have had good long-lasting results with bonding fibreglass flares.

I think it comes down to using the latest technology in adhesives, which have improved considerably.

If its done right, you will have no issues with FG. My last 4 cars were all bonded FG rear flares and have had no issues. We have put 100s of them on at the shop and never seen an issue. One day we jacked up a car with a block of wood under the rear FG bonded flare and it held fine. .. (long story) !!

Fiberglass is just not a very "elegant" way to go.
I'd save up your pennies until you afford steel flares.
I know they are expensive new, but you can usually find good used sets come up for sale for decent prices.

Everytime your tires fling a rock into those fiberglass flares, you'll be getting little star shaped cracks that will drive you crazy.
If something bumps your fiberglass flares, they'll crack or break no matter now great the spaceage adhesive is.
They just aren't durable enough.
At least steel can always be banged back out reasonably easily.

Steel for sure is the way to go.

I can see using FG flares for a race car. Attach them with the thought that they are expendable. If you're gonna spend the big bucks on a nice paint job on a street car, I'd use steel.

As stonechips are always a problem with widebody cars, I was planning to stick a small section of clear plastic at the fronts of the rear flares. I've seen this done on another 911 and you couldn't really tell it was there without looking closely in sunlight.

Anybody done this?

I've heard of people glueing neoprene fabric / wetsuit fabric on to the inside of the fiberglass flares to prevent this.

As the others said the finish will be better with steel flares. Be prepared to spend more money/time to fit and prepare FG for paint than the steel ones.

One benefit of FG is the reduced weight compared to steel. Personally I would not fit FG flares to steel fenders to save only a few pounds. But I'm thinking of replacing the entire steel front fenders with FG fenders. The weight saved by this makes the fit/finish issues acceptable for me.

Exactly Ove.....I was talking about hitting the underneaths of the fenders, not the leading edges.

You would need to come up with some kind of defence against this.....never thought about wetsuit material.

Still like the thought of steel over fiberglass.

I've done glass work on surfboards, boats, etc for years. One of my fav acts is shooting a thin coat of Imron directly on the glass without primer which has helped me in avoiding paint stress cracks on whole glass projects.

whether you're lucky enough to avoid fender glass to metal paint cracking or not, glass fenders Only belong on a 911 track car imo.

I have bonded Flares with high grade epoxy on five cars so far and have never suffered cracks. once done under coating will protect the underside.

Read my thread.

Both are fine but there are caveats.

Just so you know, most people want to buy unmolested cars. So, even if you ask less for your car than a comparable unmolested car you may find it hard to find a buyer. The pool of potential buyers for modified cars is much smaller than for all stock.

Personally, I didn't care, so I hacked it up, and I will continue to do so. It's my car, and I'll keep it.

Fore-warned is fore-armed.

Hope that helps.

H

You might try gluing steel flares to the body...as a compromise...

See esteemed Gunnar Racing....go to their site

http://www.gunnarracing.com/

click on "projects".....

... then click on "completed projects, pg 1"...

... .then click on "RSR Turbo conversion"....

...... then go to dateline 11/27/01...

and find recommendation for Duramix 4178

I have a fair bit of bonded CF on my current one, and did have bonded FG on a previous car. Everything below is higher quality carbon, not FG:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300312962.jpg
Carbon is better than FG- stiffer, better matched thermal expansion which helps with cracking issues, etc. It is not steel, however. If you know where to look a join line is still visible on my car at certain temperatures because carbon expands at a different rate than steel. "Print through" of the fabric is also sometimes visible if you look hard for the same reason. Cosmetically an all steel car will be superior...

Having had both I wouldn't bond in FG; carbon for max weight savings or steel are the options I'd choose between. If I did bond in a fender I'd do it as on my car. For a pure street car I'd vote steel.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300314329.jpg

I have a set of aftermarket (Folger) trubo +1" width rear flares. I imagine they were added in the 80's, no cracks or showings of cracks, but these were definately made for a street car. They are very thick. This could be because the car was in a very mild climate, stored in a garage and has only had about 20,000 miles put on the car since 94.

For the money I would go steel. I am putting flares on my 914 and am going with steel simply for the fact that if I am going to spend big bucks on a bare metal paint job then why skimp on something that could ruin the whole thing in a relatively short period of time (assuming its a dd car).

That looks like Porsche SINGER type clone?

I wouldn't bond FG to steel but as others have said I would go full FG fenders. I currently have steel flares in the back and FG fenders up front. I used rubber paint on the inside of them prior to install. This will be my second time running full FG fenders in the front. Ive never had a chip or crack with the last set which I ran for over 10 years. Backdate project is the only reason Ive changed them.

I have riveted SC flairs on my 77S, done by a PO, not certain how long ago. Held up nicely so far.. In some lighting I can see the rivets, and someday I´ll probably go back to steel.

However, when I last fall was getting the car road safety approved, Porsche Norway, would not give documentation of anything but welded steel being OK. Due to structural integrity issues, was what I was told. Not that I´m worried and I got my car approved without problems.