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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 541
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adding fibreglass turbo flares.. cracking?
Hi,
I've got a set of turbo flares in fibreglass. A friend has told me that people are reluctant to add fibreglass flares, as they may crack. I understand in theory this is the case. However I'm seeking opinions from people who have added fibreglass flares. Would you do it in metal if you did it a second time round? Thanks, Adam
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_____________________ '73 RSR Interpretation ---------------------------------- |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 7,269
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All metal is best choice for finish and resale.
Metal rear with full FG front fenders works to. Riveted on FG is good for a race car. Just glassed flairs is concitered a poor soulition and will hurt value. The exceptin migh be the very wide RSR full rear quarter pannel. |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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you will drastically devalue the car.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Location: Miami
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I once had FG 930 flares installed on a 911 I used to own. After a while, the ones in the rear ended up showing cracks at the seams. I also had an old mustang and had a fiberglass hood scoop added to it. It cracked at the seams as well. This was all over 10 years ago so I don't know if bonding materials have improved beyond that.
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1979 SC, Slant nose wide-body cab conversion. AEM Infinity EFI, COP, supercharged! |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks for the replies...
I'm getting mixed information... Some people cringe at the thought of using fibreglass flares. Others claim to have had great success with long lasting high quality results.. Can anyone give me advice on how to prevent seams forming? I have read that some have used glass cloth in between the metal and fibreglass to prevent cracking. Thanks for your help
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_____________________ '73 RSR Interpretation ---------------------------------- |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA
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I can't remember ever seeing fiberglass-bonded-to-metal flares that haven't cracked over time. It's a kludge.
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,620
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i'm not seeing any mixed info here. fiberglass is good for bumpers, hoods and race cars.
you wanna go 'streetable race car' with it and put on glass flares with dzus (sp?) fasteners then you're talking.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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Make My Day
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,305
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For the DIY'er fiberglass could look more appealing due to the ease of installation, but you should be prepared to replace/repair them as they will eventually require it.
Me, I picked up a MIG, have been doing a little practicing, and will go that route.
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74 911S Targa ROW Building Designer/Business Owner |
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I've read some posts, including those by KevinP73, who seems to have had good long-lasting results with bonding fibreglass flares.
I think it comes down to using the latest technology in adhesives, which have improved considerably.
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_____________________ '73 RSR Interpretation ---------------------------------- |
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If its done right, you will have no issues with FG. My last 4 cars were all bonded FG rear flares and have had no issues. We have put 100s of them on at the shop and never seen an issue. One day we jacked up a car with a block of wood under the rear FG bonded flare and it held fine. .. (long story) !!
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Fiberglass is just not a very "elegant" way to go.
I'd save up your pennies until you afford steel flares. I know they are expensive new, but you can usually find good used sets come up for sale for decent prices. Everytime your tires fling a rock into those fiberglass flares, you'll be getting little star shaped cracks that will drive you crazy. If something bumps your fiberglass flares, they'll crack or break no matter now great the spaceage adhesive is. They just aren't durable enough. At least steel can always be banged back out reasonably easily. Steel for sure is the way to go.
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"Are you out of your Vulcan mind?" Doug 2022 Carrera 4S, 1989 Delta Integrale, 1973 911T CIS |
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I can see using FG flares for a race car. Attach them with the thought that they are expendable. If you're gonna spend the big bucks on a nice paint job on a street car, I'd use steel.
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JPIII Early Boxster |
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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As stonechips are always a problem with widebody cars, I was planning to stick a small section of clear plastic at the fronts of the rear flares. I've seen this done on another 911 and you couldn't really tell it was there without looking closely in sunlight.
Anybody done this?
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_____________________ '73 RSR Interpretation ---------------------------------- |
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911 driver
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Norwegen
Posts: 640
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Quote:
As the others said the finish will be better with steel flares. Be prepared to spend more money/time to fit and prepare FG for paint than the steel ones. One benefit of FG is the reduced weight compared to steel. Personally I would not fit FG flares to steel fenders to save only a few pounds. But I'm thinking of replacing the entire steel front fenders with FG fenders. The weight saved by this makes the fit/finish issues acceptable for me.
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Ove '77 911S targa |
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Exactly Ove.....I was talking about hitting the underneaths of the fenders, not the leading edges.
You would need to come up with some kind of defence against this.....never thought about wetsuit material. Still like the thought of steel over fiberglass.
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"Are you out of your Vulcan mind?" Doug 2022 Carrera 4S, 1989 Delta Integrale, 1973 911T CIS |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
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I've done glass work on surfboards, boats, etc for years. One of my fav acts is shooting a thin coat of Imron directly on the glass without primer which has helped me in avoiding paint stress cracks on whole glass projects.
whether you're lucky enough to avoid fender glass to metal paint cracking or not, glass fenders Only belong on a 911 track car imo.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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I have bonded Flares with high grade epoxy on five cars so far and have never suffered cracks. once done under coating will protect the underside.
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1997 911 Carrera Cabriolet 66 912, 67 912 Outlaw 65 Ac Cobra reproduction 2012 Audi A8L 1999 Ferrari 360 Modena |
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Swapper and Ruiner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 578
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Read my thread.
Both are fine but there are caveats. Just so you know, most people want to buy unmolested cars. So, even if you ask less for your car than a comparable unmolested car you may find it hard to find a buyer. The pool of potential buyers for modified cars is much smaller than for all stock. Personally, I didn't care, so I hacked it up, and I will continue to do so. It's my car, and I'll keep it. Fore-warned is fore-armed. Hope that helps. H
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/502929-diy-iroc-rsr-conversion.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/649179-rsr-ls-conversion.html |
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Galivants Ferry, SC
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You might try gluing steel flares to the body...as a compromise...
See esteemed Gunnar Racing....go to their site http://www.gunnarracing.com/ click on "projects"..... ... then click on "completed projects, pg 1"... ... .then click on "RSR Turbo conversion".... ...... then go to dateline 11/27/01... and find recommendation for Duramix 4178
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Wil Ferch 85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten ) |
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Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,072
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Quote:
![]() Carbon is better than FG- stiffer, better matched thermal expansion which helps with cracking issues, etc. It is not steel, however. If you know where to look a join line is still visible on my car at certain temperatures because carbon expands at a different rate than steel. "Print through" of the fabric is also sometimes visible if you look hard for the same reason. Cosmetically an all steel car will be superior... Having had both I wouldn't bond in FG; carbon for max weight savings or steel are the options I'd choose between. If I did bond in a fender I'd do it as on my car. For a pure street car I'd vote steel. ![]() |
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