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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada
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Bad Oil Leak

Hi, my engine is a 1986 3.2 with a bad oil leak. The oil is dripping onto my exhaust and smoking. I have looked and can't find where the oil is coming from. I have tried stop leak with no results. What is located up top where I can't see the from under the car. I have wrapped the exhaust with a deflector to keep the oil off the exhaust, but it still bothers me.

Any help would be appreciated.

Brian

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1969 911, resurrected into Widebody Slantnose Cabriolet
Old 08-10-2009, 12:24 PM
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I had a similar oil leak, and it's a tough one, because it could be coming from so many places. The easiest things to check and fix are the crankcase breather hose "house" gasket and the oil pressure sender gasket. I'm not sure how easy it is to access on an 86 - on my carbureted engine it's a snap, just remove the airbox and you can access them easily. But all that fuel injection stuff can get in the way - I've read that for some cars it's easier to do a partial engine drop to access these.

Unfortunately, there are many places these engines can drip from, and it can be hard (and expensive) to keep trying to source it. One technique is to wash everything down really clean, then cover everything with baking soda or corn starch, so you can trace where the oil weeps from.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:47 PM
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It seems to leak the most when it's running. It is frustrating to not be able to find the problem. My Corvette was alot easier.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:51 PM
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There is a discussion presently on leaks in the rockers on the engine build side with good pictures.
Bruce
Old 08-10-2009, 12:52 PM
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brimcc:

Christien is correct.

Please check my posts to azrob on top side oil leaks.

A leaking breather tube can make a real mess.

Accessing that area will require the removal:

Of the air filter housing, air meter, and throttle assy
along with the various hoses.

To replace all three gaskets is about a 2-3 hour
job without rushing.

If you have to go back there, other maintenance
should be performed.

Do you have a Bentley manual?

Just fixed our '86 breather tube oil leak.

pm me as needed.

Good luck,

Gerry
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Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 08-10-2009 at 02:00 PM..
Old 08-10-2009, 01:47 PM
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I have removed the air cleaner and air meter assembly yesterday. It appears to be clean back there. I don't have the Bentley manual therefore am working on experience to help me. Since this is my first Porsche, I am learning as I go. My old Corvette was easy to work on.
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:27 PM
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If you can be absolutely sure it's clean back there, then there's no point in removing further stuff. When I pulled my engine last, it was greasy all around that area, but the real motherload of yuck was actually underneath the fan shroud. About 50% of the surface area of the top of the engine was covered with solidified oil gunk. Again, I'm not sure of the specific differences in years, but on my car, it was quite easy to tell there was oil leaking in that area.
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:31 PM
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It's definitely an adventure; Good luck! Please no more "stop-leak."
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:37 PM
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unles I missed it you didn't state where on your exhaust it was leaking .. that would help. Mine leaks between the chain box and cam carrier. a 2.00 seal that means I have to retime the cams so it will leak till the next time I pull the engine.

If it is up where the heat exchanger collects three pipes into one it could be your cooler seals. If it leaks more towards the back of the car it could be valve covers , return tubes or leaking cylinder base gaskets
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:47 PM
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Brian,

Try this link.

www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Good luck,

Gerry
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1986 911 Targa.
Per Road and Track magazine:
Only in L.A.:
In the window of a bar in Hermosa Beach, California.
"Happy Hour prices during all car chases."
Old 08-11-2009, 03:07 AM
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Thanks to everyone. The leak appears to be coming from the back of the engine (front of car). It also appears to be on the passenger side. I have had the values adjusted last year, therefore new gaskets. I also had the alternator and fan Assembly out to repair the alt., no oil there.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:35 AM
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I had this exact leak and got it fixed about 2 weeks ago. Before it was all said and done, I replaced the oil return tube o-rings, crank case breather gasket, oil pressure idiot sensor, engine thermostat o-ring, and oil cooler seals. I was leaking oil as fast as I could add it to the car, and now I haven't leaked a drop. I couldn't figure out specifically which thing was leaking, so I replaced them all. It was cheap enough, and I was already in there. To be honest, I think all of them were leaking a little bit. Just something to consider if you are already in there. BTW, I did all of this with the motor still in the car.
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnchris View Post
I had this exact leak and got it fixed about 2 weeks ago. Before it was all said and done, I replaced the oil return tube o-rings, crank case breather gasket, oil pressure idiot sensor, engine thermostat o-ring, and oil cooler seals. I was leaking oil as fast as I could add it to the car, and now I haven't leaked a drop. I couldn't figure out specifically which thing was leaking, so I replaced them all. It was cheap enough, and I was already in there. To be honest, I think all of them were leaking a little bit. Just something to consider if you are already in there. BTW, I did all of this with the motor still in the car.

Wow, pretty cool!!! What did you need to remove from the motor in order to access all those o-rings and gaskets?
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:39 AM
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I did it all at one time. I raised the rear of the car, put it on jack stands, and pulled the right wheel so I could get to the cooler. I pulled the air box, air flow meter, large rubber boot (don't remember specific name), and the hoses in the way. I had to turn my head sideways to lean over the intake, but it was doable. I looked around on Pelican for pictures of motors removed from the car so I knew exactly where the bolts and nuts were that I needed to remove. It took some patience, but I was able to do it all with the motor in. To remove the oil cooler, I removed the front right and side right engine tin, plastic elbow that sits on top of the cooler, and hose from the oil tank to cooler. After this all of the bolts for the cooler are accessable, just remove and pull. I won't say it's easy, but it was easier then pulling the engine for me.
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:47 AM
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awesome!!! thanks, tnchris.
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'88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended.

Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations
Old 08-11-2009, 11:15 AM
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No problem. It takes some patience, but can be done.

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Old 08-11-2009, 05:16 PM
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