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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 77
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Doing my research to start my 1973 911 RS Replica.
Hi guys. Next year, I am soon starting my 911 RS Replica Project. I have tons of questions! I am looking for a 911 which I will be purchasing at the beginning of summer next year. I am mostly concerned about the body work. I know where to purchase the front bumper and rear duck tail spoiler, but I am more worried about the fenders. I want this machine to look as original as possible. I've done most of the research, and I am curious a to if the fenders on the 1973 911 are the same as the RS model? Or will I have to buy new ones. Will I have to have somebody modify the original? I don't want fiberglass ones.
As to the engine, what did the RS have that a normal 2.7 911 engine didn't have? Thanks for the help! |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 77
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Anyone?
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this place is a wealth of knowledge.
I recommend using the "search" function as this has been disussed many, many times. Great subject but still search around a bit and you will find much info.
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-Jay '74 Mexico Blue 911 3.0 EFI (Fast and Loud) '70 914/6 Race Car (Faster and Louder) '71 73RSR tribute vintage race car 3.0 '68 SWB 911T "RENNRAT" 2.8 twin plug/915 gearbox '81 Magenta IROC clone in progress 3.6 varioram/G50 |
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AutoBahned
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yes. try to find a car that is already a clone you will savew a stack of thousand dollar bills
and see this *.doc file I made up http://www.penaltykicker.com/911/data/ |
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I have the money. It's just a matter of me wanting to start from scratch and be able to build an incredible piece of machinery.
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Moderator
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most of the body of either '73 or '72 is the same as used on an RS, the difference is in the rear fender flares, later SC flares are usually used but are not quite perfect to the purist. glass ought to be changed to the thinner RS sort and the door cards changed to the simpler RS pattern, a T interior is a better place to start than w/ an S because it starts w/ less stuff. RS used f/g rear bumper and some versions also used f/g front bumper. trans was slightly different but any of the stock 915/02 are close enough for most anyone(you do want to add a ZF lsd if it's not already there). all the 911s used the same basic mg crankcase and forged crank, as you go from T to E to S to RS valves, pistons, ports, cams and mfi change(though the S and RS heads are the same as are the S and RS cams) if you start w/ an S engine then just the p/c and mfi need to changed if you are a true purist then technically you should start w/ a 7R crankcase which is a slightly stronger casting than the others street wheels were 6ET36 and 7ET23.3 x15 w/ 185/70 & 215/60 x15 tires, but many were upgraded to 7ET23.3 & 8ET10.6(or 9ET15) x15 w/ 205/50(or55) & 225/50 (or 245/45) x15 tires T's and E' will usually need the front brakes and struts upgraded to Bilstein's w/ 3.5" ears for S calipers. All used the same rotors.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Thanks a lot! This is exactly the information I need.
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Too bad that auction has ended. That one looks like it is in good nick.
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Quote:
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Location: Naples, Florida
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I don't want to rain on the parade here but if you can buy a clone for less than $25,000 why would you spend over $50,000 (and that's a low number) building one? I'm not against a Porsche stimulus package but be careful what you're getting into.
At this point I think 911S restoration would make more financial sense. On the other hand if we had financial sense we wouldn't own Porsches and we certainly wouldn't be on this forum. Richard Newton |
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