Sound proofing
 

IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED I JUST PUT IN "RATTLE TRAP" SOUND PROOFING IN MY CAR. IT TOOK 100 SF THIS COVERED THE ENTIRE INTERIOR BODY, DOUBLED @ DOORS, ROOF, WITH 2X4 LEFT OVER TO DOUBLE @ REAR DECK. I CUT IN 4' STRIPS FOR EASE OF CONTOURS. PAINTED THE ROOF BLK TO STOP "SHINE" BEFORE HEADLINER WENT IN. CARPET STUCK GREAT. CK IT OUThttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250568122.jpg
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what, you don't like noise? going for the "Lexis quiet" ride? how much does 100 sq/ft weigh?

Looks cool to me...couldn't see well on the roof install...did you leave the roof vents open for air circulation?

I'll get some pictures of my "sound proofing" job. It's a can of Herculiner with the entire interior stripped :D.

(Interior in a can.)

eliminate the tin can sound for 25-50#

looks good to me

Sound
 

100 sf of rattle trap has an install weight of ~40lbs. I did not cover the ventilation system in the roof system. I did pull the sunroof motor, tubs, etc. The r.t. Sticks like glue and paints well. Installed factory bucket and sound pad in rear with no problems.

Looks like a nice product; nicely installed.

What did all that material cost you and how long did it take to install?

Let us know how it works out.

Sound proofing
 

I bought it on e bay 100' roll/ $130 with free shipping. You have to watch this site to pick up that price. They usually sell @ $159/free shipping. Doors-double coverage (with all fixtures out) .5hr/door, roof/sunroof 2hr (i took a lot of time because of the ventilation and the fact that i wanted to make sure that when the h. Liner went in it would not touch or interfere). Rear section 1.5 hrs with large areas patterned from factory parts. R. Seats .25/each . Sides and front 1 hr, center console .5, floor .5/both sides-one piece each side/pattern of floor mats. I found that i could apply most quickly by cutting into 4" strips and overlapping. (the doors are the hardest with limited working space). I don't mind overlap since the effect is 3x if you get double coverage. A good day project. With carpet. Interior/ stuff out it was real easy. I do have to admit that i had my kids do the doors (smaller hands & and it keeps them out of bars) and a lot of the pattern work.

Do you have some more pics of the roof? (Before painting the the "Rattle Trap")

I'm doing a similar project on my own car and was considering using Dynamat on the roof...

point a directional mic at the roof and drive around for a while

see how much noise there is & what freq.

Sound p.
 

Sorry i was on a time crunch and painted the roof right away. However, i would have to say that i like the $ of r.t. Over dyno. Given the option. It is hard to get tech. Info. From either company. Good luck

a "mic" is to tech. For me. I would guess that with the sunroof (shake rattle and roll) the effort to install is a bit academic. However it seemed like the right thing to do. It has been suggested that the r.t. Or dynomat help with the heat???? I did add a 55% tent (slightly less than legal) to the glass to try to better condition area also.

Roof
 

I've been thinking... On the roof. I only put the r.t. On the interior of the roof. If i were to do it again i think i would attempt to adherer it to the top section of the roof (the part that has about 3/4" space) that the sunroof moves back into, as well. The problem is that once you take the protective paper off the r.t. It looses its rigidity and wants to stick to everything including its' self. One would need to develop a way of protecting the sticky surface while aligning and then pressure into place (in a small space). I think this could be engineered and i think that there would be enough space do it without interfering with the sunroof operation.

I'm guessing the results will be good.

With a "loudish" exhaust you'll hear the sweet fat 6 sound without the harsh cabin noise that pierces your ears.

You will definately improve the environment, but "soundproofing? (Impossible).

There's been some great threads,..good ones heading into the technical/audio engineering level of that nasty 911 environment.....I've swore that before I die, I'll get my analyzer out and plot the sheeeit out of that cabin...having shared this project desire with fellow musics/audio engineers, they seem excited to go for it (not really too much work to do here,...just finding the time to do it is the complex part.

Your install looks VERY CLEAN,..good detail....good work,....certain to garner some nice sound reduction.

To achieve "soundproofing",..hell, I'll need to break out the saw out and start cutting,..then add some serious weight!!! That engine probably doesn't like being decoupled.

Again,..your work looks impeccable,...and your sound quality is destined to be improved within that cockpit.

Best,

Doyle

Soundproofing misnomer
 

Sorry if i used the wrong term. Just trying to tell the story in words i understand (or would like to believe). I did spend lots of time trying to get techs, engineers, suppliers, and others to help me understand the journey. That was like pulling teeth. With that... I filled in my own blanks. Thanks for the thoughts.

Wow, I only did my doors and noticed the difference. That looks fantastic.
Looks like another project is on the list.

I know many years have passed since this was installed. I'm wondering of how the material has handled over the years.
Thanks

I've been experimenting and my verdict is that the experts really do know what they are taking about.

That material is the wrong stuff. It is good to use in small pieces to dampen sections of metal that go "bong" but not great for muffling sounds.

The pros recommend a combination of closed and open cell foam or vinyl

Yup. Check out quiet ride, they have nicely put together combination kits.

I used felt and spray on adhesive under Appbiz Perlon felt. Dramatically changed the sound level inside the car. Also used spray-on bed liner in a few tight places. Also used strips of Dynamat in the doors.