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Quantum Mechanic
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Power window jammed "UP" (searched forum)
Folks, I got a power window jammed in the "UP" position - the motor is getting power, switch is good, but even after opening the door up, removing the door panel, and loosening the regulator mounting bolts, I cannot budge the window!
I suspect that the regulator is worn and the motor has driven itself into a state where there's so much preload on the regulator that it won't move. Any thoughts on how to get the regulator out ? Can I disconnect the window and in that way remove the preload ? References to relevant posts appreciated. I did a search and could not find anything that applied. thanks Mark Petry Bainbridge Island, WA 81 SC |
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Registered
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hit har with hammer
clarify tap softly motor with deadblow or tap with wood ( like yo do a starter when they stick ![]() |
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Registered
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Have you tried another switch?
Just a thought, since I had the opposite problem: Window down and not going up. I purchased a new switch and that got it working again. Good luck with that. I feel your pain.
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Ed Paquette 1983 911SC 1987 944S 1987 944 Manual (Donated to the Nat. Kidney Foundation) 1987 944 Automatic (Recently sold to another Pelican) |
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When I was putting my car back together I ran into this a couple times while re-assembling the doors. I was never able to definitively determine why the window would get stuck, but I think it is something about the limit switch. You won't like to hear this, but you pretty much have to disassemble the door, remove the window mechanism enough so you can reposition the limiter. I actually just had to do this as after my car was completely reassembled, the last thing I did was recondition the targa top. When I put it on, I noticed my windows were not closing up quite high enough, so I had to pull the door apart to adjust the limiter, major PITA.
Hopefully someone else has a better idea, otherwise you're in for a big scoop of no fun. Geoff
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'82 911SC (Complete rebuild) Click here to go to the project website that chronicles the rebuild process |
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Quantum Mechanic
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thanks!
Pretty much what I thought, about the adjustment of the upper limit switch. And yeah, gotta pull the regulator out to get it un-jammed.
The window switch is new, 3 weeks ago, prior to that window operation was intermittent, thought I had fixed the problem, now this. So I have the panel off and will pull the regulator out today. It's about as much fun as working under a sink, changing a disposal. thanks again! Mark Petry Bainbridge Island, WA 81 SC |
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BEFORE YOU BUY A NEW SWITCH, HAVE YOU TRIED TO DISCONNECT THE WIRES AND HOOK THEM TO A 12 VOLT SOURCE e.g. JUMPER UNIT OR DIRECT TO BATTERY? REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE TO REVERSE THE CONTACTS TO GET IT TO MOVE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.
MY THOUGHTS ON THE "LIMITER" (THE BRACKET THAT THE REGULATOR HITS ON IT'S WAY UP) IS THERE TO KEEP UN-NECESSARY PRESSURE OFF THE GLASS AS IT HITS THE TOP FRAME (GIVEN WE ARE SPEAKING OF A COUPE) I CAN NOT SEE THAT AS THE PROBLEM SINCE IT IS A GLASS PROTECTING DEVICE??? I DO LIKE THE IDEA OF SMACKING THE MOTOR...THAT ALWAYS GET ME RUNNING A LITTLE BETTER WHEN MY GIRL DOES IT. |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Falls church Va
Posts: 725
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See if the motor rear bushing is just bound up. If so you have a one hour, simple tools, no cost fix. The 12 V DC motor is not hard to pull off the rest of the regulator. The rear bushing gets stiff often from water dripping on it. Undo the 2 small torx type bolts that hold the motor to the regulator and pull it out of the door. A mirror helps here. If it is stiff you can gently remove the plastic brush holder power connector from the motor body and then pull the armature out of the motor body. Clean and buff the bushing end of the armature shaft. Using 3 in 1 type oil drip oil on the felt and bushing in the bottom of the motor housing until they are saturated. Armature goes in body, brush holder/ connector thingy goes in body with care that the brushes are held back as they pass onto the copper toothed communicator.
Reinstallation is reverse of removal ![]() Check that the upper bushing that remains in the regulator does not get cocked to one side. the older ones use a ball shaped bushing the newer ones use a fixed cylinder. ; |
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Quantum Mechanic
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thanks for all the great advice!
and the fix is, "everything". Regulator was stiff; Motor dirty (and I think maybe mounted upside down, binding the cable) and the spring was loose.
I've got the regulator and motor clamped in the vice and it runs up and down now, smooth and quiet. No sign of the nut http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_INTpnl_pg3.htm#item12 which I am ordering. Since most of the work is the PITA that it takes to get the thing in and out, no sense installing it if you have not fixed "everything". thanks again for all the advice ! Mark Petry Bainbridge Island, WA 81 SC Last edited by mpetry; 08-22-2009 at 03:04 PM.. |
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Registered
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SEE HAMMER AND DUCK TAPE , EVERY TIME
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