|
|
|
|
| Author |
|
|
Registered
|
more cross brace questions
Does anyone know if you can remove the motor mount cross brace without dropping motor. Can it be removed from the up top?
__________________
Rick T |
||
08-23-2009, 07:11 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
|
Wow, that's a tough one. I think getting to the engine mount plate by the crank hub would be the hardest part. You can support the engine in place with a jack and some wood block.
You MAY be able to finagle the cross bar out once all of the bolts are out. I've never done this so my advice is purely speculative.
__________________
1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
||
|
08-23-2009, 08:39 AM
|
|
|
Registered
|
it looks like if you remove all the bolts and shift the brace all the way to the passenger side it will clear the motor mount framing
__________________
Rick T |
||
|
08-23-2009, 09:20 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
|
I went out and looked mine over to see the possibility. I don't see where it will come out "up".
be sure to get your engine situated securely on stands/jack before you start loosening bolts. You may even need to jack it up or down during the removal process. Take pics along the way if possible. Others may need to do this and your trial will help them out. Why are taking yours out anyway? Bent? Rusty? Good luck and be careful.
__________________
1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
||
|
08-23-2009, 09:28 AM
|
|
|
Registered
|
it spun the end around when i tried to take out the bolt. The theaded tube on the end is now
__________________
Rick T |
||
|
08-23-2009, 10:05 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
The crossmember is accessed from the bottom. From my recollection, it goes something like this:
1. Raise rear of vehicle 2. Remove muffer. You'll probably need new HE-to-muffler gasket(s). 3. Remove threaded M6 fasteners attaching the rear sheet metal panel. 4. Remove the mounting bolts/nuts attaching the crossmember to the center engine mount bracket, then preload rear of engine with jack (avoid the sump cover). 5. Remove motor mount bolts (nuts) on each side: Note: Early 911s use a through-bolt, nut and washer on each end. Late 911s use only a bolt (no nut) threaded directly into the engine mount crossmember. In both cases, counterhold the threaded portion to prevent bending/breaking the end of the crossmember. This might be the most difficult step in the procedure, especially with threaded fasteners married to each other for perhaps decades. 6. Lower the engine far enough to remove the rear engine sheet metal panel 7. Remove the engine mount crossmember. Don't forget to apply anti-seize on threads for next time. Hope this helps, Sherwood |
||
|
08-23-2009, 10:05 AM
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
|
Sherwood-Is he wasting his time attempting to remove it from the topside? You've got more years with these cars than I.
__________________
1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
||
|
08-23-2009, 10:08 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
Quote:
Sherwood |
||
|
08-23-2009, 11:45 AM
|
|
|
Registered
|
my car is a 1979SC stock. I have looked at it for a while and it looks like if I unbolt the four center bolts and the two end bolts I can slide the cross brace all the way over to either the drivers side or passengers side and then lift up on the other end. It looks real tight so I hope to find out if anyone has done this before I go thru all the trouble to find that if needs a few more mm to come out. will it hurt anything if I just leave it alone now that everything is mounted up and tight
__________________
Rick T |
||
|
08-23-2009, 02:51 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
Quote:
 Sherwood |
||
|
08-23-2009, 03:05 PM
|
|
