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Join Date: Jan 2001
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Post Tech Article: How to replace convertible top on 1983 sc ???

Does anyone know where I can find a tech article on how to replace the convertible top on my 83sc?

I recently purchased the whole top from Autos Int'l, which included the back window, canvas top, and head liner (3 pieces)

the question I has was, what special tools do I need like stapler, glue, etc??

Also my old headlines is completely ripped..

any help would be appreciated, I know some of you have done this before. thanks.



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83 sc euro cab

Old 06-12-2001, 02:22 PM
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I don't know what to really tell you about it. It's a very big job. It requires putting it on, then taking it off at least once unless you're very lucky (but you can just take the whole top off, including the frame to tighten the back window).
Glue: Yes, but DO NOT USE it until you know exactly how things are going to fit and be tight. I used the scotch super time adhesive.
Stapler: no
Save those plastic pieces on the side, they look like little half-moons. If you break them you have to get them from Porsche, but they're cheap.
Take a lot of notes when you take the rear window part of it off. There are 3 layers of fabric there, and it's hard to figure out how they work. Yes, they will need to be cut. You will need a razor blade, but you won't be using it til the very end.
Do not put any outside screws in the thing until it's totally done, and totally tight. No outside screws or holes are ever used to tighten it.


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Kurt B
(smashed)1984 Carrera Cabriolet
911 Page
carrera_cabriolet@yahoo.com
Old 06-12-2001, 03:16 PM
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thanks Kurt,

I hope your damaged 911 gets back to its original form soon!

btw, do they let you Autocross with the top down like that?

The previous owner I bought my cab from had a roll cage in it, stating they wouldnt let him outcross without it! what's up with that?

in regards to the top, I finally decided I might as well remove the whole frame from the car and install the new top that way...it might be extra work but i want to do it the right way.
Old 06-12-2001, 05:08 PM
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83 SC,

If you can, post some pictures of your progress. I am going to be tackling this job soon too and would like to see how it goes for you.

Keep us up to date on the progress.

------------------
Chuck Moreland - '86 Cab, '77 Targa, Family Truckster
Old 06-12-2001, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Clark Griswald:
83 SC,

If you can, post some pictures of your progress. I am going to be tackling this job soon too and would like to see how it goes for you.

Keep us up to date on the progress.

sure thing. I'll post some pics....hopefully the pics can help you avoid some of the problems I'm sure to encounter.

as for now, I have a "remove the whole frame from the car" approach to do the job...

kinda analogous to removing the engine to do a valve adjustment as opposed to doing it right in the car.


Old 06-12-2001, 05:45 PM
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You can't install the top with the frame removed from the car. Period. You will never get the proper stretch. The frame must be installed on the car as it will be and properly adjusted so you end up with a smooth wrinkle free finish.

Also, use contact cement and a small paint brush instead of the spray adhesive. You can peel it back and adjust much more easily. Apply the cement to both surfaces and let it sit for 15 min. or so. Then lay it together. If it's not right, you can still peel it back and adjust it without problems.

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Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet
92 C-2 Cabriolet
Old 06-12-2001, 07:24 PM
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well, there goes that thoery
Old 06-13-2001, 04:17 AM
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'83:

I can only provide general hints to recovering as I have done alot of upholstery work in cars but not the Cab. itself.

Generally, you perform this work on a hot day--that is, you "set" the material in tension without permanant fixing on a hot day, then perform the final gluing/stapling/whatever after stretching the material into place (an assistant helps).

Also, know your "center point": the first-glued area from which you will work across to remove all wrinkles. Get three boxes of binder clips in 1", 2", and 3" sizes for holding the material in place. Get a reasonably transparent glue, such as 3M "Fast Tack" in yellow: dries reasonably clear. Put glue on both sides of whatever, push together, then pull apart: wait 2 minutes (less on a really hot day) and push pieces together (they will NOT come apart now).

How's the frame? Ensure you tighten all screws and bolts related to the frame prior to test-fitting your top.

Sorry not to be of more help. You MUST take step-by-step pics of this for a tech article as this would really help.

Jw
Old 06-13-2001, 05:08 AM
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Hello


> I know some of you have done this before

How come ? No secrets here ?


The early Convertibles are special cars with other cinematic. Any mistake will bend the aluminium links and you need big money to replace them.

The 911 convertible top as front and rear portion and the rear is very "easy" to renew. The front is something i would not start as a beginner.

First is to to find out if your rubber is ok the torsion ropes the rubberbands the rearbow the little axles the rain cutters,........

I would go to update to the new torsion ropes witch will delete the screws about the rain gutters.

Most show up during deassembeling so prpared to wait for missing parts and to have the thing done in a longer brake ( winter ? ).

Right now I will have to browse for pictures as i miss many words and some way to descripe things.

Als get a copy from the factory repair manuall reguarding the convertible top.

Grüsse
Old 06-13-2001, 10:24 AM
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I make no guarantees about how things will turn out, but if you insist on doing this yourself and you live in the LA area (so cal), I will swing by and help you install it.
The one thing I do know after doing it totally wrong and ruining it in Sept 2000 and doing it again 90% right 2 months ago, is where you need to concentrate your energy and what not to do.



------------------
Kurt B
(smashed)1984 Carrera Cabriolet
911 Page
carrera_cabriolet@yahoo.com

Old 06-13-2001, 06:48 PM
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