Opinions on engine choice - '71E Targa

[Bez]

I've been posting the restoration progress on my 'barn find' '71E Targa. Last few weeks have been focused on disassembly and body prep, so now I'm starting to think about engine choice and I thought I'd solicit opinions from you all on this hugely important issue. Some folks have already made suggestions, but now I have some more info to share on the original motor, which came in classic basketcase form.

It's a #'s matching E motor (6210364, 3R case), but it is missing the complete valve train (cam towers, etc.) and most of the MFI bits. (The PO told me his brother's friend scavanged the motor for his T project...). Crank does turn smoothly by hand, which is a plus. Here's some pics of everything I have:





I suppose options are:

- rebuild the original 2.2, probably tweaked to 2.4 high compression while I'm at it.
- transplant 3.0 or 3.2.
- transplant another period correct motor

I want a fun car to drive mainly on the street (at 7000' altitude) with maybe a DE event here or there. Money / value is a consideration since I already need to throw a good chunk of $ at the rest of the project. Also, I need a trans too, but the car already has shift tower and linkages for a 915.

Oh, and last point, I'd have to pay someone to do a rebuild...well, outside my skill set. What do you all think?

[Shaun @ Tru6]

There is some real value in a #'s matching E, so if $ is a consideration now, I'd plug a carb'd 3.0 into it and properly store your longblock in pieces until you can tackle the rebuild yourself with Wayne's book.

if you were to drop those pieces off at a shop, I think you'd see a minimum $10K final bill, and probably closer to $12K given acquiring and rebuilding MFI components.

the nice thing is you can probably get into a running 3.0 for under $5K and sell it for the same money after your original motor is done.

[Bobboloo]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

There is some real value in a #'s matching E, so if $ is a consideration now, I'd plug a carb'd 3.0 into it and properly store your longblock in pieces until you can tackle the rebuild yourself with Wayne's book.

if you were to drop those pieces off at a shop, I think you'd see a minimum $10K final bill, and probably closer to $12K given acquiring and rebuilding MFI components.

the nice thing is you can probably get into a running 3.0 for under $5K and sell it for the same money after your original motor is done.

Shaun's advice is spot on. The cheapest alternative for you at this point is to store all your 2.2E bits and buy a nice 3.0 and put it in your car. Your 2.2E bits won't bring much money on there own but with the car they are quite valuable.

Believe it or not I think Shaun's estimate for having a shop return your 2.2E to it's original condition might be a bit conservative. Take the time to learn and rebuild it yourself and when it's done you can sell the 3.0 if you so desire. Just be prepared that even when doing it yourself you could be looking at $10k in parts and machine work to rebuild your motor yourself. The upside to the rebuilt 2.2E in your car is that the car will be worth substantially more with the original motor. Maybe not $10k more valuable but not far off either.

[al lkosmal]

Go for the 3.0 liter....plug and play...and then restore that 2.2E engine to it's former glory.

Before and after......WIP

regards,

Al

[Macroni]

Rebuild the original.

[Evans, Marv]

I also agree with plugging in a 3.0 and rebuilding the original over time and when the money is available, although that may take awhile. You can probably score a 901 trans for not too much and have it rebuilt too. I think the costs mentioned are probably ballpark. I can only say, I got a 2.7 rebuilt about 4 or 5 years ago with E cams, JE pistons, thermal barrier coatings, dry lubricant coatings, machine work, & race balance. I did the disassembly at the time and gofered almost all of the parts. The whole thing still ran me $8K then.
I'm the type that would probably put the 3.0 in, rebuild the original, store the original and drive & enjoy it with the 3.0 in it. It might be worth more in the future with a new, rebuilt, original 2.2L on the side.
Have fun.

[Bo_66]

Take the cheapest running motor you find i.e. 2,7 CIS and save your money for the 2.2E rebuild, get out running and sort out the rest of the car.
The 2.2E only have 155bhp on the paper but the MFI gives a great trottle responce so I find it compareable with a 3.0 (track times).
Dont change the crank, might be an idea to have slight higher compression since it seams that new pistons is needed. barrels can be rebored.

Go for the original gearbox its better than its reputation if you keep it under 240hp and dont shifts to brutal. Also its lovely to have first "dog leg" and the driving gears in H-pattern.

My input -Bo

[RWebb]

I also agree on both the motor swap & the superiority of the typ 911 trans. & its road racing shift pattern.

You might want to build the 2.2L a little bit - make it into a 2.5L it will still be #'s matching re the case.

search terms = scott clark

he did exactly that & made a nice mod to the air filter housings for the MFI also

[BK911]

Since money is an issue I would concentrate on one engine, not two. I have personally owned early cars with 2.2T, 2.2E, 2.2S, 2.4T (cis and mfi), 2.4E, high comp 2.4E and 3.0 engines. BY FAR my favorite was the hi comp 2.4E, so that's what I would do. Plus, with the exception of the crank and rods, would be original to the car. No brainer.