Door Window Frame Paint

Inniswhe · 09-20-2009, 04:49 AM

What is recommended for painting the door window frame components.

I am repainting by 84 and the black window framing is worn along the door tops so I am considering painting it and maybe the door handles but I am concerned the new satin black finish will not be as durable as the original finish.

Should I repaint these parts and if so should I be getting them powder coated or a base/clear system like the body ?

Anyone go through this exercise with good durable results ?

Thanks

Ross

gregk1 · 09-20-2009, 07:24 AM

i have been using upol trim paint on my 67 camaro interor trim parts works great and i get it at the auto body supply house they have primer /satin/gloss /wheel sliver allso $10 a can but goes a long way

Inniswhe · 09-20-2009, 07:31 AM

I would not expect any aerosol can product to have the scratch resistance even close to that of the original finish. I am trying to find something very durable for this high wear area.

JFairman · 09-20-2009, 07:39 AM

Puff can paint is no where near as tough as catalysed urethane enamel, but the best puff can stuff I've tried came from motorcycle shops.
Motorcycle engine case paint and Russel epoxy frame paint.

Both are black satin and hold up well for what they are. I've used the engine case paint on the black parts of fuchs wheels with excellent results over zinc chromate primer, and the russel frame paint on window trim pieces.

Inniswhe · 09-20-2009, 07:47 AM

Is the catalysed urethane enamel the standard body shop paint ? If so I was planning to go this route or powder coat. I don't want an aerosol paint. Is powder coating stronger than the urethane enamel and will the parts take the heat without warping ?

My original question should probably have read:

" What is the toughest paint method for the black door window frames and misc. exterior trim that best matches the OEM finish ? "

Thanks to everyone

Ross

scottrx7tt · 09-20-2009, 08:21 AM

i used some flat black dupli-color wheel paint. it has held up quite well. Its all in the prep work, i used a green scotch brite pad and used some rubbing aclohol to wipe the surface down before painting. It turned out awesome.

RoninLB · 09-20-2009, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inniswhe

Is the catalyzed urethane enamel the standard body shop paint ?

Is powder coating stronger than the urethane enamel and will the parts take the heat without warping ?

not sure of current tree hugger body shop policy in your area.. anyway...

Acrylic urethane is routine catalyzed enamel in shops. Polyurethane is the tougher enamel with its longer molecular chain.

If my car I'd anodize

Inniswhe · 09-20-2009, 03:26 PM

RoninLB,

Was the original finish anodized ? The door handles look anodized but the door frame looks like paint.

Anodizing is not available around here - PEI, Canada so it is either powder coating or typical body shop products.

I know the rules around paint are changing here. My car was painted with the water based base coat but traditional clear coat on top. I will ask my painter what is available.

RoninLB · 09-20-2009, 03:49 PM

[QUOTE=Inniswhe;4908377]

Was the original finish anodized ? The door handles look anodized but the door frame looks like paint.
------- it was optional for my car, 1977. I can't say about other years.

it is either powder coating or typical body shop products.
---------- I'd go w/power coating. Paints will need more up-keep, even if you use a polyurethane such as Imron. Powder coating isn't bullet proof but it's still worth the "LOOK" imo. Another option is the heat treatment that's used on headers in a black color. That stuff looks great and is very durable. [I forgot the wording]

I will ask my painter what is available.
--------- If you decide on a urethane paint and the body shop can't paint it you may still be able to as a hobbyist. Even if you can't do it yourself maybe a friend can? It's an easy shoot with a $30US touch-up gun.

911pcars · 09-20-2009, 06:45 PM

As Ron suggests; powder coat for best longevity. However, the pieces have to be removed and baked in their oven. It's not a small job if you want everything to match.

Sherwood

Inniswhe · 09-21-2009, 06:53 AM

I know its not a small job, I have the car apart now and the reassembly is going to be a massive undertaking for a guy with a wife and three young kids.

I stripped the car down, glass out , fenders off. I refurbished the oil tank /lines and replaced the A/C hoses to start and am slowly putting her back together. First off - headliner replacement then glass installation.

I completely disassembled one door window frame so it is in pieces that can be powder coated now .

I am concerned with heat warping if I powder coat, especially the thin trim at the sunroof and rear quarter glass.

The other issue is the blasting associated with prepping the parts for powder coating. It may be better to get the body shop just to paint the parts as it would probably require much less prep time ie. just sand down the exposed portions of the frames. My only concern with traditional auto paint is the durability of that product.

I think I will get one window frame done then reassemble before tackling the second one so I have one as a guide.

There is one awfully big pile of parts now that somehow all have to get back in the right place.

Ross

911pcars · 09-21-2009, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inniswhe

I know its not a small job, I have the car apart now and the reassembly is going to be a massive undertaking for a guy with a wife and three young kids.

I stripped the car down, glass out , fenders off. I refurbished the oil tank /lines and replaced the A/C hoses to start and am slowly putting her back together. First off - headliner replacement then glass installation.

I completely disassembled one door window frame so it is in pieces that can be powder coated now .

I am concerned with heat warping if I powder coat, especially the thin trim at the sunroof and rear quarter glass.

The other issue is the blasting associated with prepping the parts for powder coating. It may be better to get the body shop just to paint the parts as it would probably require much less prep time ie. just sand down the exposed portions of the frames. My only concern with traditional auto paint is the durability of that product.

I think I will get one window frame done then reassemble before tackling the second one so I have one as a guide.

There is one awfully big pile of parts now that somehow all have to get back in the right place.

Ross

Not sure how close the PC shop can match colors done at different times. Because of that uncertainty, I would suggest you minimally coat al the window frames on one side in case there's a slight color mismatch (door trim + quarter window trim). No need to worry about the coating heat, but ask first if you're concerned. I powder coated my trim years ago and it turned out fine. Surface prep with glass bead or other fine, low abrasive medium should be fine.

Sherwood

BlueWing · BlueWing's Garage

I have used a chassis black paint from Eastwood on motorcycle restos in the past. Not sure of all the specs on it but it is tough as nails on everything I have ever used it on. I believe it to be an epoxy high solids paint in a spray bomb or by the quart. Does not need heavy coats and always a nice smooth not so thick finish. Comes in a sort of matte finish that cleans nice and high gloss as well.

Terry