Part it or save it - what would you do?
 

So I bought this 1971 T

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254778950.jpg


I knew it had some warts. Picture makes it look much better than it is. Knew it had some covered up rust areas. Then I found a rust hole in the sill area behind the driver seat. Took the grinder to it then cut it out. This is what I found


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779093.jpg


So obviously, there will be bad stuff on the outside. Everything had been covered over with some kind of filler that was rock hard and felt like metal and the entire car had undercoating sprayed on it, but took out the grinder again and found this (used to be the jack receiver:




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779238.jpg


So I started trying all the other areas that might be a concern:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779325.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779349.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779364.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779400.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779423.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254779449.jpg



There's more filler than metal on parts of the car. Will need outer and inner rockers, jack receivers, lock posts, two doors, two fenders (buckets had rust as well), hood, decklid. Basically, every freaking panel.

So, should I save it or part it. Not sure that I'm up for a 3 year project. Not sure I could source all the metal either. Guess I could go fiberglass and do a lightweight. I paid 10k for the car. Think I might just cut my losses.

What would you guys do?

Ouch, if the mechanicals and interior are VG I might be tempted to fix it, otherwise I don't think so.

The cover up really compounded the crime. All that "metallic bondo" filler needs to be removed, IMO. That's a ton of work. I think that chassis would need to be dipped, or seriously blasted. It doesn't seem realistically possible to get all that cover up work removed by hand.

i've got no bright ideas but I sure love that early 70's with the white and black

I guess thats the ultimate 10 footer

What does the PO say out of curiosity?

Yep - I'd give the PO 15 days to refund my money and then be seeking out an attorney.....

I'll try and save it, mines was in worst condition than that.... I don't know what you and the last po transaction was, but if you can't get your money back, you should try and save it...just my 2 cents..

Your assuming the PO slathered bondo over all the rust to hide it and it wasn't the PO's PO, or the 4th PO. I think it's a pretty solid car over-all and absolutely should be brought back. It's a good project for you to learn welding, metal work, and bodywork on. You should tackle ONE piece at a time. Take a fender off, strip it or have it (do both) dipped, replace the buckets, fix any rust, and make them as-new. Move on to the doors, then to rockers, etc. It will take more time than money and in the end you will KNOW what you have. Trust me, unless you buy a new car there is ALWAYS something some idiot did to it that comes out later... My vote is Restore it!

You know I would be glad to help you out when possible, your only 40 minutes away.
:D

I'm with Gary on this one!!!

Unless you can't live without driving it for a pretty good while I would restore it. And I bet you can live just fine while working on it and learning more than most of us will know about our cars.

Keep 'er.

gary is far more skilled than I

I know nothing that you can't learn and you will have the benefit of not having to stumble over all the mistakes I have made on the way if you let me (and others) help you...

I would save it

I'D VOTE SAVE IT OR SELL IT AS A WHOLE TO SOME ONE WHO CAN SAVE IT AND TRY TO CUT YOUR LOSS TO A MINIMUM , I'M JUST A SOFTY AGAINST PARTING AND CHOPPING UP A CAR THAT DID NOTHING WRONG ACCEPT HAVE MANY PO THAT NEGLECTED IT, AND THE WORST PART THE PO THAT DID THE BODY WORK MAY HAVE THOUGHT THEY WERE DOING THE CORRECT THING IN "FIXING" IT , ALSO COULD HAVE BEEN A SHADY BODY SHOP THAT DID A COVER UP "RUST " REPAIR ON AN UNSUSPECTING PREVIOUS OWNER WITH A DEEP BUT DUMB WALLET ?? SmileWavy


sorry cap lock was stuck ...

I am a big fan on saving these cars! However some times you just can't realistically piece together what will always be in the back of your mind as a bad decision.

The only thing you need to worry about is the TUB as everything else is bolt on and with enough patience available.

Cosmetically it looks great. ie lights, indicators, grills etc etc. These are the pain in the backside pieces that will annoy you if you don't have them.

Also if it is a sunroof model check the rear parcel shelf. sunroof issues are a big deal with a tub.

Included are two pics of my 71 t that after all the evidence was presented I sadly wrecked. 10k down the toilet ( not a good experience)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254787862.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254787897.jpg

First thing first... Can you get your money back?

Assuming you can't... Then you have to decide what's the most cost effective way to fix this.
Don't let your heart rule. Make a logical decision...
From your photos and description it sounds like your best option would be to replace the entire body.
There is just so much work to do on your car... And you don't sounds enthusiastic about doing it...

(Assuming the engine and gearbox are good)

If I was you: I would find the best 71 "ish" body only I could find and go from there.
A lot less work this way and if you do the sums and buy the right body a lot more economical.
You also have to consider the time it would take to repair your car.
Not to mention alignment issues and availability of good replacement panels.

Take your time. The wrecking yards of California would be a good place to start. (rust free bodies a plenty)
Also try GK Restorations, Tallahassee, Florida www.gkrestorations.com

This may sound like an expensive option but do your sums.
Start a parts list and get some prices. Do you have a MIG welder? Do you have time to learn how to use one?
Do you have the covered area for such a project ~ You'd need a minimum of a two car garage and even then you'll soon run out of room.

By the way, It is now becoming cost effective for people who live over seas to buy good rot
free body's or complete cars from the US.

I've seen some major restoration thread here and hats off to the guys for doing these but
I wonder how much time and money was spent on some of these cars.

Your time is valuable. Often people will tell you your time is free.
Your time is anything but free. What about your family? Don't let this project rule your life.

Be smart and use the resources you have at your disposal.

Good luck and I hope it works out for the best.

If you have experts offering help then the answer is obvious. I wouldn't think of parting it now.

Mine took me about three years to fix the body from a similar point. Full strip,sand blast, and rotisserie rebuild.

Just a point of reference.

How does it drive? $10k is on the low end for one of these cars so even if it needs work you are not doing all that badly. Why bother with any of that rust? Just drive the car for as long as it stays together. Once you have used it for years then either fix it or part it.

may be a little late on the drive as is option looks like he already attacked with th D/A sander ??

i agree though if is not structure though i would look into the rear deck and other primary part of the car that keep the engine and the driver moving forward as one unit < don't forget the front suspension mounts they are important too , door corners and rockers are truly over rated ... although 10k it was a nice 10 footer and photographed very well ...:cool:

Front pan has already been addressed AFAIK, it's all just body panels and sheet metal.