Oh crap I drove a bit with the handbrake on

[white99c2]

It now needs to be adjusted, how do I do it. It still grabs and holds all the way up, can I adjust the cable so it grabs lower. How do I do it, pictures anyone?

[Oh Haha]

Not a big deal, my friend. Most of us have done it.

Check this out:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/bob_tindel/e-brake.htm

[burgermeister]

Keep an eye on your rear rotors. Mine cracked in the brake drum area after similar abuse. No need to get new ones, the cracks move very very slowly (if you even have them), just keep an eye out for them ....

[rnln]

burgermeister ,
you have picture of the crack somehow? I want to have an image on how/where to check if posible.
Thanks.

[burgermeister]

This was from about 1.5 or 2 miles of driving below 60 MPH. Car suddenly made a "pop" and started to shake like crazy. Releasing the handbrake made it act normal again ...

[86 911 Targa]

Rob,

Perhaps on your car, there is an adjustment at the E-brake lever.

If so, you will be adjusting both E-brake rear drum/shoes simultaneously.

The previous post from Oh Haha on adjusting the E-brake is the best way
and, the way I did mine.

Good luck,

Gerry

Weve been out to Carefree a few times and really liked it.

[rnln]

Thanks burgermeister,
Ont he first pic, I can't find the crack at all.
On the second pic, I can't imagine what/where things are. Is it the inside where the emergency brake pads are, or is it the edge of the rotor?

[Rusty Heap]

you might pull your rear rotors to check your brake pad thickness now too..........better be sitting down when you look for the new price from pelican, $50 each and you need 4.

I have a very thick used set for sale if you need a set. PM me if interested.

[burgermeister]

1st pic, by the black dot at the base of the rotor. Very hard to see even in real life. The other one is what I saw after pulling the rotor off (wondering why the park brake kept dragging in a couple of spots)

[rnln]

know what burgermeister? Bad news for me. I have exact same crack, each on each rear rotor. One extended and visible on the outside, one is only visible from the inside where the brake shoes meet with the rotor.
I was thinking about open this up to check the emergency brakes but always put up with it. Thanks to Draco who pushed me to take them out today.
You said there is no need to replace the rotor? Meaning it's not dangerous to keep on driving the car like this? Well, I don't track the car but I do drive a little agressive and brake hard some times.

[burgermeister]

If you've cracked to the outside (like I did), I'd put new rotors on my short list and keep a very close eye on the crack - ideally its someplace you can check out with a flashlight and a mirror through the holes in your wheels?

When it extends into the braking surface of the rotor more than 15 or 20 mm, I'd probably stop driving. Obviously, the preferred solution is to replace the rotors ASAP.

I drove mine for 4 or 5 months after the incident (no track use, and I didn't know I had cracks in the rotors at the time), and while I don't know how big the cracks were when they started, they clearly didn't grow very quickly.

EDIT: If you've already got them off, why not just put new ones on for peace of mind? Same amount of work, better end result.

[CBRacerX]

cracked rotor = replace.

[rnln]

One of mine is extended to the outside, maybe almost 1/2 inch. Bad thing is that the braking areas are still in very good condition, only those cracks. I am looking rotors now and wow, they are not cheap.

[Quicksilver]

If you need to replace the E-brake shoes it cost me less to get them relined then to purchase a rebuilt set.
I had Porterfield Racing Brakes in Costa Mesa, CA do the reline.

Fun bit- I bought a set of R4S pads on the same invoice and whoever had the workorder ended up relining the E-brakes with R4S compound. Now I have racing E-brakes!

[burgermeister]

Porsche has some sort of spec (I think ... thinking means not knowing) for crack length in their cross drilled rotors. I think the permissible limit is small, maybe 3/8" or so, on either side of the hole. I absolutely cannot remember where I read about this ... but alas, it would make some sense to me to use this spec (if it exists) as a guideline for when to stop using the rotors.

For whatever reason, the above reminds me of the below:

Bigfoot ... Endangered Mystery! [The movie shows a map of North America.] In the dense forests of the Pacific Northwest ... dwells the strange and beautiful creature known as Bigfoot, perhaps.
Fry: That proves it!
[In the movie the Clearcutter cuts down some trees.]
Narrator: Sadly, logging and human settlement today threaten what might possibly be his habitat. Although if it's not, they don't. Bigfoot populations require vast amounts of land to remain elusive in. They typically dwell just behind rocks but are also sometimes playful, bounding into thick fogs and out-of-focus areas.

Narrator: Remember, it's up to us. Bigfoot is a crucial part of the ecosystem, if he exists. So let's all help keep Bigfoot possibly alive for future generations to enjoy unless he doesn't exist. The end.

[txburnett]

On my 81 SC, the E brake lever feels tight (has resistance, not loose), but when I take the car out of gear in my driveway with the E brake on, it starts to roll. Can the adjustment on the rotors be loose even if the lever feels tight?

[80-911SC]

Originally Posted by rnln

One of mine is extended to the outside, maybe almost 1/2 inch. Bad thing is that the braking areas are still in very good condition, only those cracks. I am looking rotors now and wow, they are not cheap.

replace them before you kill yourself or someone else because you cant spend a couple hundred or at least park it till you fix it.

if your brake is broke you fix , simple should be in the manual if its not it should be, check Haynes they probably agree also ... .

please fix ...