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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 360
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36mm Hard Oil Line Fitting removal
Hi -
I am trying to remove the hard oil line that attaches to the oil line adapter fitting on the bottom left (Drivers Side) of the block. The engine is a 2.2l. I can move the fitting and the hard line moves with it. I cannot get the 36mm bolt to turn at all if I hold the hard line in place. I have tried heating the bolt and using PB Blaster. Any thoughts on how to remove the hard line?
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Where are you applying the PB blaster? The place where the collar nut seizes is usually NOT the threads. It's where the oil pipe enters the backside of the nut. What happens is dirt & crud get inside that joint and seize the underside of the nut to the oil pipe. Try scraping around the nut-pipe joint with a pick to see if that frees it up.
I too have struggled with some oil lines before. The key i've found to work well is to have some dedicated oil line wrenches. I have a set of 27, 30, 32, 36mm wrenches that are specifically for the pesky Porsche fittings. And the wrenches work the best when you've got them oriented on the fittings such that the wrench handles are close together, so you can squeeze them with two hands. Think of it as holding a pair of scissors that are only slightly opened, at the shear/cutting ends. It's surprising how much strength/leverage/power you can apply with your hands in this position vs. trying to push very hard on widely separated wrenches with your biceps & triceps where you're counterholding one and pushing or pulling with all your might on the other.. If all else fails, you can cut the line with a hacksaw. The hard line that goes from the engine is pretty commonly found at most Porsche salvage yards.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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PB Blaster and going back and forth (tighten 1/8 turn, loosen 1/8 turn over and over) with the wrench usually will break the bond between line and nut. KTL is correct, the lube needs to soak in between the nut and pipe and as he said, use a pick to try and scrape anything you can out to give the Blaster room to work.
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Gary R. |
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It's all about good leverage.........
Quote:
Using penetrating oil is good. But most critical is applying good leverage on the wrenches to crack the tight and stubborn nut. I also have 2 sets of dedicated oil wrenches for this kind of job. Since I'm not strong enough like our friend KTL, I have an assortment of tube extensions (12" to 18") that I placed at the wrench handles and squeeze them together like an over-size pliers. The technique has been very effective. It may take longer at times than usual but in the end, it was always a success story. Keep us posted. Tony |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CA
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I made a pipe wrench out of a 12 point combo wrench (about 14" long) I got cheap at NAPA, cut out a section just big enough to get the pipe through.
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Gary R. |
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Join Date: May 2003
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Sometimes an oil return tube is in the way of the wrench. You can buy a replaceable oil tube and sacrifice the one on the engine in order to get a better angle on the fitting.
-Andy
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Encinitas (San Diego CA)
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Jamie,
I have a 36mm wrench (it is a bike head wrench so very thin), but you can borrow it. I also have large crescent wrenches that afford a lot of leverage. You can borrow one of those, too. They are 20" long or so. Might makes right! ![]() Doug
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
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Pick
Hi All -
Thank you for the replies. I'll get out there today and see if I can get a pick in between the nut and the hose.....sounds painful. I bought the 36mm wrnech from Pelican, I wasnt using a wrench on the fitting in the block(32mm). I'll also go at it with two wrenches instead of one. I may have rounded/ruined my 36mm wrench though....ugggh. Doug I'll shoot ya a message. Thanks, Jamie
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