I went with S brand as I was told they are good pieces. Time will tell. The S brand is not Dansk. They said they have them made locally. I got the suspension pan, the tank/battery support, the two curved supports for the suspension area, and two drain tubes which I still have no clue where they go.

That is very unusual, as the S employee I spoke to in the spring very specifically explained to me that they were from Dansk, who bought the Porsche tooling...

However, if the sheet metal you get is the same as what they sent me, you won't be disappointed.

Kinda makes me wonder though... how many sets of tooling would there exist for these parts?

It's (the pan) a pretty simple part - looks like a single hit. A soft tool would probably be $50K or less in the US, probably much less in China. Skip the die development phase alltogether and accept a crappier fit with bigger radii, and "dongfeng coachworks" could probably bang out a few thousand parts for $30 a pop...

Based on the fit & appearance of the 3 different pans I had, I'd say there are at least 3 sets of tools.

From what I understand, the heavier gage galvanized parts are Dansk stampings. The green primer stuff with 3 spotwelds where 12 belong is surely made in china...

I agree that looks more chemical than rust.

You can see the drain holes in this photo......

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258056436.jpg

PET has them listed as grommet 911 025 612 00 with two fitted from MY 69

This is what they look like fitted..


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258056567.jpg


In the above photo the pan has three drain holes my repo only has the two as did the original, but my drain tubes just looked like grommets with little bits of rubber sticking down, so no pictures of them sorry.

Hope that helps? i don't have a PET for the latter years, but i assume they were still fitted, as even the Porsche pans have the drain holes.

Tony

My car's original pan had three holes (it is an '85). Instead of the drain tubes, they used those soft circular plugs that are used in several areas of floor pan under the sills. I guess there were some of the subtle changes that happened over time.

Tony,

In the picture of the new pan, the three holes are in the lower, recessed stamped part. In the photo of the drain tubes, the tubes appear to be in front of that area--in front of the weld points for the tow hook. The picture of the pan doesn't show holes there. Is that right? Did you have to drill the holes through your new pan or am I not seeing the pictures correctly?

My bad i just looked at my original pan and the replacement one.

Of Note;

both have two drain holes in the channel

The original pan in the car does have two holes in front of the channel and what's left of a drain tube.

The question now is was there anything in the ones in the channel, or were they simply left open?

The repo pans are good but are missing the support that i mentioned before and also the washer bottle support, and depending on the year the tow hook.

Tony

Thanks.

All my early cars have the two holes in front of the recess with drain tubes in them--no drain tubes in the holes of the recess. My theory: When the gas tank support is added (sealing off the recess) it creates a small lip creating a low spot in front--the area where the tubes are located. My 73 has small plugs in the holes of the recess, but I think putting in tubes and cutting them down a bit, would allow any water that did leak under the gas tank support to drain away.

The usual I feel better now pictures. This has some seam sealer and black primer. I plan to try out spray on truck bed liner for protection. The actual tank hole will be filled with aluminum sheet and a fuel cell installed. But anyhow here is the mostly finish job. Not as perfect as some but the suspension bolts on easy and I don't think it will fall off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259678641.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259678661.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259678713.jpg

Looks good, dont bother with the bed liner get the wurth stoneguard and put it on there the bed liner wont stay put unless you have absolute perfect conditions I tried it.