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derek murray's Avatar
 
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No brakes after caliper rebuild

I have rebuilt the front calipers, installed new pads and have had the rotors machined. I bled and re-bled the braking system many many times over. I used the two person method and a pressure bleeder. As far as I can see there in no air in the lines.... however. I have absolutely no brakes, whatsoever! And I mean, none, nada. When I push the brake pedal it goes to the floor with no resistance at all and there is no movement of the pads that I can see (rear or front). I have searched the archives, but every suggestion suggests air in the system... and I'm pretty sure there is none.

What have I missed? (BTW, the master cylinder was replaced about 2000 miles ago.)

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Old 11-02-2009, 01:37 PM
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Have you pressed the brake pedal enough to move the new pads out to touch the rotors?

No obvious leaks at the calipers or lines?

not being a smarta$$, I am just throwing out ideas to you.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:49 PM
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When I installed the pads I extended the pistons out so I needed to lightly tap the pads into place with a hammer. I extended the pistons manually.

When I press the brake pedal there in no movement of the pads / pistons at all. The pedal presses to the floor with virtually no effort.

No leaks at all (as far as i can see).

I appreciate the response.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:19 PM
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Quick answer: there is air in there, sounds like the master cylinder is dry, try bleeding just that first till the pedal has some feel to it then move down to the wheel cylinders to get the trapped air out. Keep at it!!
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:24 PM
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Well, crap.

Here's a thread i found that might help you.Brake upgrade/bleeding question

I agree with Mr. Brown on air in the system.

It's the only logical explanation given your reply to my questions.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:29 PM
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It is possible to install the calipers upside-down ... they don't bleed well in that state. Just something to check ...
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Brown View Post
... sounds like the master cylinder is dry, try bleeding just that first till the pedal has some feel to it then move down to the wheel cylinders to get the trapped air out. Keep at it!!
Thank you.

I've never bled the master cylinder before. Does it need to be removed from the car, or can I do it in place?

Oh Haha... thanks for the link.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:36 PM
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I would pump the pedal, let it sit for a while, and repeat. There might be some bubbles or micro-bubbles stuck in the line that dont come out through the caliper bleeder when bled. They might come out through the MC.
Old 11-02-2009, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgermeister View Post
It is possible to install the calipers upside-down ... they don't bleed well in that state. Just something to check ...
Calipers are properly installed... thanks for the idea, though.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:42 PM
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A couple suggestions:

Quote:
It is possible to install the calipers upside-down ... they don't bleed well in that state.
You'd think installing them upside-down would be an anomaly, but it's rather common based on post I've seen on this forum. Check that the bleeders are on TOP of the calipers.

Quote:
I extended the pistons manually.
Can you elaborate on this? I've never had a need to do this, on any car. And no, I'm not saying you did anything wrong. It's just an unusual thing to do. leading to suspicions the issue is somehow related.

Also...

Try simply gravity bleeding the system. Open all four bleeders. and let gravity pull the fluid through. I's the simplest and best way to eliminate air in the system.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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yes try gravity, it takes time and can be messy but it does work, just make sure the resevour is kept full
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Carrera View Post
Can you elaborate on this? I've never had a need to do this, on any car....
Before installing the calipers back into the car, I used compressed air to force the pistons back out after installing the dust boots. Once I got the pistons pushed out just a little I test fitted the calipers on the car with the pads installed. Once everything was perfect, I bolted them to the car, tapped in the pads and re-installed the bleeder screw that was removed for re-building.

As background, I was reading a post by Warren Hall where he suggested to install the pads with the pistons out a little so that the pads needed to be lightly tapped into place with a hammer.
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Last edited by derek murray; 11-02-2009 at 03:04 PM..
Old 11-02-2009, 03:02 PM
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After I rebuilt mine, it took forever to get a good pedal.
I bleed about 1 gallon on fluid before I was satisfied.
How much have you gone through?
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:29 PM
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I agree, there is air in the system somewhere. It doesn't take a whole lot of air to make the pedal go all the way to the floor.

Before you unbolted the calipers, did you use a brake lock (or stick, etc.) to hold the brake pedal down an inch or so for the entire time you had the calipers unbolted?
Old 11-02-2009, 03:32 PM
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Please, call me James or Jim, Mr Brown is my parole officer....
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:47 PM
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Gotcha Jim.

I thought you might take the reference more from "Resorvoir Dogs".
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:26 PM
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good point and yes, I don't sing!! but I do "feel good"
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomphot View Post
How much have you gone through?
About 2 litres, maybe 2.5

Quote:
Originally Posted by McLovin View Post
Before you unbolted the calipers, did you use a brake lock (or stick, etc.) to hold the brake pedal down an inch or so for the entire time you had the calipers unbolted?
No... I forgot.... which equals lots of air, doesn't it?
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:17 PM
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ding, ding, ding
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:36 PM
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Yep, I think the problem has been diagnosed.

I remember now that I used a chunk of 2x4 to hold my brake pedal down when I rebuilt my calipers.

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Old 11-02-2009, 05:40 PM
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