I am keeping the AC... Spoke to Griffiths... told me if I switch to the Carerra (84-89) denso mounting bracket (smaller than York) that it will drop it and move it to the right just enough for 1/16 of clearance... Will just need to buy a new belt... Also Griffith sent me pics of his with a Sanden 508 and Webers mounted on his... The 507 is actually 1/4 shorter than the 508 so I think with some modest mods Ill be ok there... If that doesnt work. Patrick Motorsports actually makes a mounting bracket... but I already bought the Carerra mounting bracket from DC Automotive so Ill try that first.

So I made some progess this weekend...

First I installed the TPS Sensor. This was pretty Straightforward...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258324849.jpg

Then I installed the IAT Sensor. I installed this between Cyl 5 and 6. I cut off a big washer and used a plumbers brass nut. There is no damage to the base, its just the lighting...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258324908.jpg

Then I installed all 6 injectors along with the clips that hold them in. I used a punch to get the clips started then used a small flat head screw driver. Was pretty simple. Used a small spray of Liquid Wrench Lubricant on the O-Rings so they would install easily. The AN fittings on the Fuel Rails was installed. I also installed the base of the Air Cleaners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258324970.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258324981.jpg

My wiring, ECU and and relay board will be here Wednesday... so Next will be creating the wiring Harness... ;)

Looking good!!

Cheers

Nice project. I have been considering going down the same route for some time.

Are you doing this with the engine in the car? If so, have you figured out how to get the crank pulley off to install a new trigger wheel (with the engine in the car?)

I was looking at my 3.2 tonight and can't see how to get a wrench on the pulley nut without a partial engine drop.

With the tps mounted that way will you be able to get the connector on when the itb is mounted on the intake manifold?

Take the muffler off, support the engine with blocking or jack stands, etc. remove crossbar and engine mount.. zip the pulley bolt off with an impact if you have one.

Tim,

Is it normally installed a different way? It was the default position with the throttle closed...

I believe I will since the PMO intsakes are about 3 inches tall...

Thanks

I haven't used that style tps.. just check that you will be able to get the connector on in that orientation.. if so fine, you can flip it 180 and have the connector up?

Sensor orientation doesn't matter since you have to calibrate the sensor to zero throttle and full throttle in the software..

so you are saying you do have to drop the engine and remove the motor mount bar from the case?

I am not using a trigger wheel... I am using the tach wire to trigger the EFI... This is a fuel only installation.

Once I get it running and tuned I will consider adding ignition control as well... but for now its not on my list... It is supported by the software...

Cant just flip it because it connected on a shaft that is flat on one side (can only go on one way).
PMO supplies the TPS in the kit, so I assume it will work ok. We will see soon. Ill make the wires alittle longer when I construct my harness to be sure...

No, this all done with the engine in the car.

Get the car on jack stands, remove muffler, support engine with jack, jack stands, blocking etc. Remove mount from engine...remove pulley bolt. install new pulley with toothed wheel.. re-assemble..

Apologize if I am semi coherent in my responses, I spent 4 hours in Ikea today helping someone shop for furnishings etc for there new apartment...made numerous trips shuttling stuff from her old place...

Yes the end of the shaft is D shaped, the element in the sensor is able to rotate 360
(the sensors I have seen, maybe not that particular one) So you could just spin the internals and mount in a different orientation..

Only reason I commented is that it looks like it may be a tight fit for the tps connector..

Thanks Tim. I'll check that for sure.

Trog did some nice pics of his crank trigger wheel..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/427451-my-pmo-itb-project.html

You got it right!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258343741.jpg

That view shows there is plenty of room.... the other view looked like it would be tight...

carry on..

Thanks Tim.

Trog,

In doing some research on the cold idle issue, why dont you use a Cylinder Head Temp Sensor?

Old Air Cooled VW's had these and most EFI controllers have an input for the CHT/Coolant Temp Sensor...

You could Attach it to the head/Spark Plug and wire it into your ECU... The MS Manual actually recommends this for air cooled cars.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258428814.gif

Not all CHT sensors are created equal. Many are based upon a thermocouple wire due to the higher temperatures associated with the air-cooled heads. The thermocouple will require a small voltage amplifier to provide a compatible signal.

Any sensor based upon a thermoresistor or RTD will work just fine but loose sensitivity and resolution at high temperatures. Just make sure you match the sender to the ECU for a compatible setup.

Another option might be using the Thermotime Switch...

This sensor measures the temperature in order to best adjust the fuel mixture for warming up the car.

911-617-117-00-M100 Thermotime Switch On Chain Cover, For Cars With CIS And MFI, 911 (1969-73), Each
Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]

or on your Motronic Car... the cylinder head temp sensor..... Read more about the procedure in our Technical Article on the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Upgrade.

930-606-915-00-M14 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, 911 (1984-89)
Brand: Bosch [More Info]

Anyone experimented with wiring these into the ECU on your EFI?