engine drop help needed - final steps
 

Car is a 1971T

Can't figure out how to remove the clutch cable and get the CV joint separated.

What do I need to loosen in order to separate the clutch cable? I've got the adjustment nuts fully loosened.


Have the 4 bolts out of the CV joint but it won't separate.

You can hit the cv joints with a dead blow hammer, work around the joint hitting it outwards.
Don't understand your other question. separate the cable from what?

the clutch cable is attached to the fork on the transmission - doesn't it need to come out?

This is a bad picture, but this is what I'm talking about


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258745769.jpg

does the clutch pin separate from the throw out lever?

sorry how about a better picture. Pry the TOB lever towards the back of the car and you should be able to get the clevis out of the fork.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258747412.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258747658.jpg

OK, do what I stated in the last post.

I don't think that's right because the cable is still threaded through the case. I'm thinking it has to disconnect some place else.

Looking closer it seems the clutch cable is separated can you widen the angle of the shots and try to include more of the area in the photos?

This is what it should look likehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258750045.jpg

On a 911 box the clutch cable end is fixed to the transmission and the HOUSING actuates the clutch. Weird but true.

On the CVs, once the bolts are out there are two steel roll pins holding the joint to the stub axle.

Be careful under the car! Good luck!

Note-- the above picture depicts 901 transmission, not a 911. This is what a 911 looks like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258750954.jpg

For a '70 or '71, it isn't the clutch cable that does the work, but rather the clutch cable sleeve which flexes when the pedal is depressed/released.

The cable end is hard attached at the rear of the transmission (left side of the picture). You do have to loosen the adjustment nuts on the throw-out arm to the point where you can remove the clevis and then the cable end from it's hard mount on the transmission.

Clean up the whole area so you can see what is going on.

He has the clevis type 1972 on

I loosened the adjustment nuts all the way and still couldn't remove it. Not sure I see how to get the cable through the attachment point in the case either.

This is a 71 901 transmission. I guess it could be a 72 clevis type given that 71 was a wacky transition year.

It looks like the hole (that the cable passes through) is rusted up.

Look, you can see that this is a 911 box, not a 901 or a 915, from your photos. The cable passes through a hole in that tab.

Better pics of the attachment point here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/500994-little-help-1971-911-01-transmission.html

There aren't any nuts on the far side of the tab, just what looks like a cap on the cable. I'll take a picture. I think I might need to cut it.

Where on the CV are the roll pins?

See this thread. It should slide out sideways once tension is off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/166598-clutch-cable-70-71-901-a.html

The pins are between the mating surface of the output flange and the body of the CV. If you have the bolts out, you should be able to push the CV toward the other CV slightly and it will come loose. There are paper gaskets on there, you probably can't see them due to grease, but they are there. Our host has replacements.

Thanks, that helps. So I've got the wrong transmission???

I don't understand what you mean. All 2,2 liter cars (1970 and 1971) came with the 911 transmission, that is the "right" transmission for your 1971T. It is a great transmission, I have the same box in my race car. It's just that the clutch actuation is funky.

yeah, i got confused by one of the posts...understand now

Are you having trouble removing the CV from the motor end or the wheel end? I endured a painful few hours of CV removal on a 1970s 914 in the summer time. The paper gaskets had fused the CV to the brake disc assembly and no amount of banging in the world would get hem apart. In the end I took off the brake disc which allowed me to get the whole CV out. I'm not sure if the setup is the same on your car but this might give you a lead.

J

If you can get the CV off at the trans, you can take the nut off the axle at the disc and pound out the whole assembly....

I'm trying to get the CV off the transmission end to drop the engine

Heat and a hammer....are they off at the wheels? If not, try and get them off and then bend the axle at an angle...

Not off at the wheels - where exactly do they separate? Is it at the plate/flange that the bolts screw into where there appears to be a gasket?

yes....they should have the same sized fasteners unless it's an updated one piece version.

Got them off
 

thanks for the help - for those trying the same thing here is what you need to do:

There is a gasket shown here in white that has to be removed. It's like glue. I did as recommended and just used a chisel directly on the white gasket area. Don't be shy, hit it good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258904446.jpg


then, take a big screw driver and wedge it in the gap from the gasket and pry the roll pins out. work your way from one side to the other


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258904497.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258904609.jpg

Success! Thanks for the help.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258924507.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1258924531.jpg

Good for you.....A BFH is a good tool....

For those interested - I got the clutch cable off by hammering out the clip that was set in the case. You drive it towards the back of the car.