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Registered
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What kind of brake fluid do you use?
getting ready to flush mine out and replace...
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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ATE Super Blue!
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,527
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Adam, several brands over the years, but right now ATE Blue...it seems to works as well as any of the DOT 4 fluids I've used. Don't get any on your fingers. With your bass guitar talent, you should hire the job done...don't hurt those guitar fingers! LOvin' your latest CD, man! (And yeah...this is a blatent plug!) Best, Paul Oh Gawd...just struck me... blue brake fluid...liquid blue.
Last edited by pwd72s; 11-11-2001 at 07:28 PM.. |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,527
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Hmmm, edit didn't take as I planned. Oh well, one thing about ATE is the idea of using the blue for one flush, the amber for the next. When the color changes, then you know the fluid flush is complete.
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interested in 911's
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: ontario, canada
Posts: 111
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motul 500
any high performance fluid(read high boiling pt) is good. most important is to change regularly, at least once a year, more if you attend the track regularly this is certainly an aspect of good maintainence that many people overlook it is really incredible how much of an improvement can be had with a high temp, fresh fluid |
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Registered
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Quote:
ATE LIQUID BLUE it will be! |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 424
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Pentosin racing to start, subsequently changed to ATE Blue. The key was, at track events everybody was using ATE. So if you needed to top up, or bleed, etc. You coudl alwasy get your hands on some from a "neighbor".
The same thing goes for Mobil 1 engine oil |
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Stay away from my Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 5,773
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I switched to ATE blue early this year and have had zero fade or other brake issues since then, including about a dozen track events. Highly recommended. There are more expensive fluids but the ATE works fine IMHO...
While you're in there, make sure everything else in the braking system is in perfect shape. Sure, going fast is great, but stopping is essential!
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 13,333
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ATE Super Blue
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Jack Olsen 1972 911 My new video about my garage. • A video from German TV about my 911 |
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I use this stuff (product description taken from the Castrol Australia website):
Castrol SRF Extreme performance, silicon ester based brake fluid with a very high boiling point, easily exceeding DOT 5 boiling point requirements. Formulated for use in drum and disc brakes in competitive motorsport, including motorcycles, rallying, touring and Formula 1. Not for use in systems where a mineral oil is specified. SAE J1703. It's around $120 (AUS) for 1 litre, so it ain't cheap! I'm not sure if it's available in the U.S. Matt Holcomb 1974 911 Carrera 2.7 Euro 1975 Mercedes-Benz 280SE Dedicated Homepage Engine Rebuild Homepage Porsche Owners Gallery Profile Pelican Gallery Profile |
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Registered
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Does anyone know where I can find instructions on changing brake fluid?
Thanks
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Paul 1986 911 Coupe |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woodbine, Maryland USA
Posts: 251
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Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Activity)- it's a DOT 4 fluid and is available locally (Pep Boys). If memory serves me, it costs about $6 or $7 a quart. I flush the system every 2 years.
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John 1972 911T Coupe PCA- Potomac Region |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,527
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My additional 2 cents...the real key is in changing often. Living in a wet climate I once learned the hard way that brake fluid attracts moisture. Even in my street machine, I try for a complete flush once a year. Before going with ATE blue and amber in rotation, I used most of the brands previously mentioned. They all worked well, unless I forgot to flush annually. Nothing like running out of brakes on a track to remind you!
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Team California
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I use Castrol LMA and keep it clean. Very important: If you go to a silicone based fluid, you have to first flush system COMPLETELY! Major PITA, and not neccesary with high-performance non-silicone products out there.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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I would not recommend silicone-based brake fluids. The nature of these fluids, is to retain a lot of microscopic air bubbles in the system. Regardless of how much bleeding you do, the pedal will never get as hard as you'd like.
Harley-Davidson has been using silicone fluids for years now. When I upgraded the front brakes and master cylender on my '96 Road King (FLHR) to a P-M products system, I used conventional (DOT 4) fluid. Result: A very solid feel at the brake lever.
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'81 SC Coupe "Blue Bomber" "Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel."- J.D.M. |
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Hilbilly Deluxe
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Quote:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_bleed_brakes/mult_bleed_brakes.htm The short version is you use a turkey baster to suck as much of the fluid out of the Master Cyl. as possible, then top off with new fluid. Use a fluid that is a different color than the old fluid, so it is easy to tell when tho old fluid is out of the lines. Then you keep bleeding the brakes at each wheel until only the new color fluid comes out. Start at the wheel farthest from the MC, (Right rear for LHD cars) and work your way to the closest wheel. When you get the new fluid at every caliper, you are done. Tom |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 715
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I use Valvoline Synpower Dot4 synthetic (not silicone)
Boilingpoint is 504 i think, and i can get it at autozone, NAPA, sometimes at Wallymart, for about 6 USD per quart I've tried the ATE and cannot tell the difference at the track, and as much as I change fluid, It's nice to have something thats priced right and works I know a couple of guys who run Ford heavy duty truck fluid and insist it's the real deal. Castrol Lma is a good choice for non track use P-cars because it's very stable. Lower boilingpoint of Lma is not ideal for racing applications |
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Automotive Writer/DP
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My experience: If you are consistently boiling your brake fluid (from using too low a friction brake pad or too small of brakes) then Castrol SRF is a good band-aid, as it resists boiling better than everything else (at a price). However with proper pads and brakes the Motul fluids work fine and are much less expensive.
Randy Wells |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Current list of heavy duty brake fluids:
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/brakefluid.htm Let me know if I've missed some. Sherwood Lee |
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