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Jumping in with both feet
I have wanted a early 911 for quite some time. Having a new child, I thought it would be a couple of years before I could get one. Then, an opportunity fell upon me acquire a 1976 911S for free (no engine or tranny). I paid a few hundred to resolve storage fees and now I am the owner. The body is in very good shape, it is a california car that needs relatively little work.
I have owned and worked on a number of vehicles (64 Ford Galaxie, 80 Rabbit, 70 VW Bug, 71 Karmen Ghia, 57 Mercedes 190sl) and thought this would be a great next step. So I have some basic beginning steps before I get started....very basic steps...I have never owned or driven a 911 so we are talking pretty basic here. 1) My manufacture date is 06/75 according to the door jam. Does this make it a 75 or 76? I thought the cut over for model year was typically August. Is there a way I can get a build sheet for this car? How? 2) Where can I get a owners manual? A photocopy or PDF would be fine. 3) I am fairly certain that my vehicle originally came with a 2.7 engine. My plan is to locate and install a 915 transmission and probably a 3.0 engine given what I have ready about this engine. On my 57 Mercedes you would never do this as it would drastically impact the value of the car, however, for the 911 it appears that this is not the case. Could you guys give me pros/cons to upgrading to the newer engine? This car will never be concours, mostly a good daily/weekend driver. 4) Ok, don't laugh at this one...How does one open the engine compartment and front hood? There is a knob under the dash I am assuming for the hood but it doesn't open after pulling it hard. The engine compartment was pretty easy to take a look in as the engine is missing so I was able to inspect the engine compartment...it appears in pretty good shape, however, given that it was -4 degrees with windchill I didn't stay around to inspect where the latch might be... 5) What is the difference between the 911 and the 911S for my model year? Thanks for your help... ![]() ![]() |
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ALASKA
Posts: 1,508
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the differences are very few,
the 911s had a few more HP but most of the changes where small, i have seen so many variations that beside the motor and maybe the emblems theres not much different. the non S cars seem to be more rare but not worth any more or less than your S. this is a great way to buy a midyear car no motor now you can put a good 2.7 or 3.0 into it and have a very fun car. good luck. cheers ed
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Sometimes the first thing that comes to mind should be the last thing that you do! ![]() |
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1980 911 SC
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To open the engine compartment there is a T-shaped handle inside the door jamb on the drivers side. Pull the T handle and the lid should pop open.
Great find for almost nothing. Good luck with the project.
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Life's a Beach |
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,629
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wow, looks like you did good!!!
engine lid is the T handle above the driver side striker plate. front hood is T handle under dash on left (driver side). pull knob is gas door. motor options are many and value won't really be impacted whatever you choose. you have interpreted the 'mid year' market correctly.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,629
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next you need to let us know where you are so you can find some local enthusiasts who will take you for a ride and show you what 911's are all about!
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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Black and Blue
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I think the only options for your year range (74-77) was the 911S and the 911 Carrera. The Carrera had a 3.0 litre motor with RS/SC flares, while the S cars had the standard 2.7 and no flares.
It looks like you can put whatever motor you want in there! with the narrow rear flares, you could make a killer early car clone. I dont think the 2.7 cars are all that collectible. And since yours is already somewhat of an orphan, you can basically start with a clean slate and make it whatever you want. Welcome to the board!
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Kemo 1978 911 SC Non-Sunroof Coupe, two tone Primer Black and SWEPCO Blue, Currently serving as a Track Whore 1981 911 SC Sunroof Coupe, Pacific Blue Project, Future Daily Driver |
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Quote:
Be warned that if you buy a used 3.0, I'd budget for replacing the lower head studs as they break, and as long as the heads are off, I'd do the valves and replace the rings. The pistons, cylinders, and entire bottom end of the engine are pretty bullet proof and most don't need to be touched.
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Rex 1975 911s and 2012 Range Rover Sport HSE 1995 BMW R1100RS, 1948 Harley FL |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,125
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No issues with "hot rodding" the 74-77 cars at this time they are relatively unloved so a great starting point to personalize.
I dont know how anal you are but this is what I would do; if you have a decent budget get with a reputable scrap yard - Parts Heaven, maybe Dart Auto and get a complete "kit" for the 3.0 swap and transmission. Since you are new at this and do not know the car I would try to arrange a sort of open parts policy with them (will not be able to low ball) where you can call back and say hey I need this bracket or x,y,z, bolt and they just send it to you. Just slap it in and go. Buy one that does not currently have any broken studs, has a couple of mm left on the clutch and just go. Learn the cars and the culture from people here and modify and repair as you go. For instance if the clutch only lasts 6 months dont sweat it you can upgrade to a new one at that time and do a few more while you are in there type of things. I am assuming that you are doing all of the work your self. If you are not, forget it and sell it it will eat you alive, but I find it very satisfying to tinker away and solve problems with the help of this great resource. On your next one you can buy a motor from a private individual that you trust for really cheap and a tranny. But all of the "little parts" might get real frustrating and expensive. i.e. if you dont get an exhaust a nice SSI set up will set you back $1200. Have fun, use the search button....oh I would not be afraid of a good used 2.7 if you can really document the rebuild.
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erik.lombard@gmail.com 1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - interesting! 84 lime green back date (LWB 911R) SOLD ![]() RSR look hot rod, based on 75' SOLD ![]() 73 911t 3.0SC Hot rod Gulf Blue - Sold. Last edited by Elombard; 01-04-2010 at 10:48 AM.. |
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i believe an early 3.0 (78/79) motor will fit in that thing with little fanfare.
nice find..you lucky dude!
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poof! gone |
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What is in the rear if there is no engine or tranny - that car sits pretty low for missing all that hardware...?
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Jeff |
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The VIN will settle the model year question. Based on the build date, I would bet the VIN starts off "91175....". My '76 was built in 12/75. The only "911" model built for the 1976 model year was a European model (the one I have). All US-spec 911s were the "S" model. Mechanically, they are essentially identical.
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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Post the VIN. If you live in California, there is a world of difference between a 75 and a 76 as far as emission checks go, and that could have a major impact on your choice of engines--again, if you are in Ca. A 6/75 build date could make it a 75 model year and exempt of all requirements. The mirrors are not 75 MY but may have been changed out. It's all a crap-shoot without the VIN.
Also, 76 cars began the use of galvanized panels on the upper portion of the car--a good thing.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 01-04-2010 at 11:43 AM.. |
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IROC & Ossiblue....
Hmm, that is interesting, my VIN is 9116200053... would the 75 in the 91175 refer to the year? I am in NJ, the emissions shouldn't be as much of an issue here. The galvanized would be great. I have some exposed metal on the engine lid which appears to be galvanized, however, this could have been replaced. |
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cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 7,238
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vin translates to 1976 S (coupe)
california engine designated 121/84 (vs 181/82 - 49 state) engine number is either 646 0001... - 49 state, or 656 0001..... CA (if you had the engine) the VIN does not segregate 49 state vs CA nice find Bill K
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73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera Last edited by bkreigsr; 01-04-2010 at 12:01 PM.. |
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No Shwet...
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia's Piedmont
Posts: 326
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The "6" in the 4th spot indicates a 1976 model. As posted earlier, the 911S was the only model brought to the US in that model year. (1975 had 911S and Carrera.) And yes, you should have galvanized panels. Nice find for the price.
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Wow, thanks for the all great/quick feedback…
I’ll be doing all the work myself…I avoid others touching my cars if possible, why spoil the fun…I belonged to a great BBS for my Mercedes which was invaluable, I’m hoping this site will prove the same. I agree, the 911S isn’t going to be a great collector, but I don’t want to put a lot of money into a dog. I have seen the Chevy engine installation and noticed prices of these tend to be somewhat lower than a comparable Porsche engine install. Plus, given the water problems I have had with my mercedes, air cooled will be a welcome change. About being lucky…yes, this was a great find, but having a wife that was OK with a 4th car with only a 1 car garage is the real luck (and a father who allows me to use his garage as well ![]() nolift911 – yes, I noticed that the car was sitting fairly low too…in fact, when I first saw the car, I was hoping the tranny was still in place. I can only guess that the rear suspension may need replacement… Elombard - Thanks for the pointers…getting a “kit” from a reputable scrap yard sounds like a good plan. Spending a few extra bucks with a good supplier has always saved a lot of headaches down the road. I am probably about 6-8 months out from getting an engine, want to do all my research first. Has anyone used weekendrides in Scranton PA? I see them on eBay quite a bit, they are relatively close and they mention support for the engine conversion. |
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,629
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Scranton eh, then y'uns need to be at Hershey this April.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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that is a nice car. it deserves a 911 motor. like i said, a 78 or 79 motor will drop right in. no issues. peek underneath, and take a picture. the tranny is easily visible from underneath.
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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Yes indeed, your car looks like a great find. Post as many pictures as possible of all the places around your car that need work/parts so we can offer input on what you have and don't have. I agree with the others that this car deserves a Porsche engine of some vintage. Since you will be needing help, now is a good time to update your screen info to include the car year and your location so all will know at a glance how best to offer aid.
Good luck and welcome aboard!
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 20,967
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I bought a 3.6 from them years ago. No issues.
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